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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/18/2025 in File Comments

  1. Yeah, the Ruthex and CNC Kitchen inserts are smaller than the Voron standard inserts. That is the right direction to take in Blender. Unfortunately there is no simple way to specify an actual dimension. I will select the feature that I want to modify and temporarily copy it on an orthogonal axis to visually determine what size it currently is (I make all of the heat-set recesses 4.7mm in diameter). Ruthex suggests a 4.0mm hole for their inserts. So you would divide 4.0 by 4.7 to find an accurate ratio which calculates to 0.851. Printed holes usually end up undersized so your 0.9 ratio should be fine. I use Alt+click to select edge loops, or your Ctrl+click method, but I prefer to work in vertex mode (pro tip: 1, 2 and 3 quickly changes between vertex, edge and face select modes). With only those vertices selected you go to Mesh > Snap > Cursor to Selected. Then you need to change your Transform Pivot Point to 3D Cursor (in this situation, Bounding Box would work as well). Then you can select all of the vertices/faces that need to be scaled and use the Shift+Z option. In my working file I do not triangulate the faces so I am able to use Alt+click in face select mode to quickly select the whole ring of faces. If you select everything, then under the delete menu you can select Limited Dissolve with a Max Angle of 0.1 to make the mesh easier to work with but not loose any geometry. When you export the .stl, Blender will triangulate all of the faces again.
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  2. That's great, thanks. I printed this out but found that the heatset inserts don't match what I have are a bit too small. I've downloaded Blender to try and sort this out - is it correct to use edit mode -> edge select -> hold down ctrl to pick shortest path around the circle -> press s -> press shift+z to lock z -> type in the ratio (I used 0.9)? Is there a way to change the diameter specifically rather than as a ratio? Thanks
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  3. I've printed the new cores today, will test it out Edit - Could you provide me with the coordinate of the four holes on the back of the new core please? I tried converting it to a part in FreeCAD but I can't seem to get good coordinates of the holes as the mesh cannot be easily simplified by the program.
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  4. I will save your first question for last.. 2. I never designed a backplate to fit this onto a Prusa MK3 but it would be a fun exercise. To get the extruder motor above the LM8UU bearings, you would need to raise the nozzle up by at least 10mm and I think it would help to switch the double bearings to the bottom so that you could make the top section more narrow. (yes, I already had a mockup of the MK3s toolhead in Blender ) 3. If you would like quick hotend swaps, the Bambu hotend is the only one that could be removed (by removing two screws from the side) without first removing the extruder. The rest of the compatible hotends are held on by screws from above or behind the core piece. 4. If you are looking for high flow on a budget, I have heard that the Dragon Ace hotend is pretty good. I have a CHC TD6S on my Trident and can print at up to 200mm/sec with it. The Bambu hotend is quite respectable as well as cost friendly and would allow you to remove/swap it quicker. The Mini Stealth cannot fit a V6 style hotend with the groove mount. That style is just too tall. 1. Most of the .stl files you would need are in the Sherpa Mini folder under the main Extruders folder. You would need to pick the core piece that fits your choice of hotend. The shroud would probably use a 3010 hotend fan under the probe_left or right folder you would use the first option unless you wanted to use a Knomi display on your toolhead. If you can fit the Pinda to the Prusa-style backplate then you could use a standard shroud You would need the motor bridge and PCB mount for the EBB36 as well as the cable door The Common Parts folder has the rest of the components you would need such as: the Pinda side mount bracket the blower air guide x2 and the gluing tool the status LED carrier and diffuser you can also use the white-only LEDs by Timmit if you don't have RGB control for the NeoPixel LEDs.
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