Voron 2.4 R2 - From Ontario Canada HEY!

[PFarm]

The M2 heat insert and screws came in today so I could complete the assembly of the SF Dragon OXL Toolhead. LED version with EBB36 Canbus is all wired up and ready to install. I like the skeleton body on the extruder and its simplicity. Still works with TAP! Onto installation and configuring. Need to fix the right side fand fitment as well.

 

 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2023 by PFarm

[PFarm]

New project started parts are on there way, Matter3D ABS CF came out nice!

[mvdveer]

12 hours ago, PFarm said:

New project started parts are on there way,

ERCF - Here we come!. Looking good. Build diary... build diary... build diary 

[PFarm]

@mvdveer I'll start a build diary shortly, I'm still reading through your ERCF build. Others have recommended binky, springy and triple decky as mods. Still reading through them all and trying to decide which are worthwhile. I saw you upgraded the servo and heard that the stock supplied in kits is weak. Springy kinda makes sense and would help during calibration. Looking at Filamentrix as well.

[Headrush69]

On 10/20/2023 at 6:20 PM, PFarm said:

@mvdveer I'll start a build diary shortly, I'm still reading through your ERCF build. Others have recommended binky, springy and triple decky as mods. Still reading through them all and trying to decide which are worthwhile. I saw you upgraded the servo and heard that the stock supplied in kits is weak. Springy kinda makes sense and would help during calibration. Looking at Filamentrix as well.

Looking forward to it.

I had purchased all the hardware and printed parts for an ERCF before my Voron was finished, but in the meantime I also got a Bambu P1P and the AMS has worked so well, never got back to the ERCF.

 

 

[PFarm]

I changed out the magnetic base today. The sides lifted easily but the center was a little more work getting off. Heating the bed was a great help in getting the 3M glue to soften up. Goo Be Gone took care of the residue glue followed by a isopropyl wash. Once the magnetic base is removed, taking the bed plate out of the printer makes it easier to clean up the residue glue. 

[PFarm]

I installed the Beacon probe on the 2.4 and what a difference the probe makes with bed adhesive. This probe is awesome!

[PFarm]

Got the Fridge Door mod installed on the 2.4. I need to trim the OEM door panel on the Z & X for them to properly. I’m keeping the OEM acrylic doors and gluing the center seam together. Onto the one for the Trident

Clicky-Clacky Door

Mini Fridge Door for the V.02 and Micron

Door Kit in USA

Door Kit in Canada

[Micror]

Cool! Is there a kit available for the entire machine?

[PFarm]

3 hours ago, Micror said:

Cool! Is there a kit available for the entire machine?

The Fridge Door mod is a separate kit (LDO make this Kit), and the printer is a Formbot kit.

[PFarm]

Purchase a Tapo IP Tilt/Pan Camera C210, installed it between the V2 and the Trident so I can view both from single camera.

Using VLC to view the camera until I figure out if I can view it within Mainsail.

 

Installed Homebridge to control the devices.

[Micror]

On 9/2/2024 at 11:41 AM, PFarm said:

Purchase a Tapo IP Tilt/Pan Camera C210, installed it between the V2 and the Trident so I can view both from single camera.

Using VLC to view the camera until I figure out if I can view it within Mainsail.

Installed Homebridge to control the devices.

Cool!

[PFarm]

I received my Sunlu S4 today and was a little skeptical when I placed the order it was only $99 CND. I was relieved when they emailed me it shipped!

Edited February 19 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Finally found a screen holder for the BTT HDMI 5" to work with the Clicky Clank door. Now need to find one for the 7" on the Trident.

Edited March 6 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

@PFarm Dude, you need to find ya someone to CNC one out of aluminum for ya. 

[PFarm]

Well, that is the idea to replace printed parts with aluminum ones. I saw your post on anodizing and will be getting back to you on that subject.

[Penatr8tor]

16 hours ago, PFarm said:

I saw your post on anodizing and will be getting back to you on that subject.

Anodizing was a really fun rabbit hole. And like a lot of rabbit holes... you can easily go overboard.

Our first experiment was using a power supply with a piece of scrap aluminum about the size of a house key and a beaker filled with battery acid diluted with distilled water. And we picked up some RIT dye from the grocery store. And even after that we kept things pretty simple. We didn't do much cooling or agitating the electrolyte much and we broke a few rules but overall... we could pretty easily anodize parts without too much fuss.

And one thing I will add... You live in a northern climate which is the best place to be if you want to anodize because cold is your friend. You want the electrolyte to be cool aways and... if you can get it to around 10c... you can hard coat anodize.

And one last thing... Get your coloring dyes from Caswell Plating, the other stuff you can source on your own. Cheap dye will fade if exposed to heat and/or UV.