Trident 350mm rebuild from scratch

[lawson.brian]

I thought I might as well pop a thread here as I will have a list of questions to run through on this build.

One night, while my wife was out, I had a bit of a browse of ebay and came across an interesting project (as you do) and popped in a cheeky bid not expecting to get it.... and won it.

A 'sort of finished but not finished' Tridex. When I picked it up and run a tape across it I realised it was actually a standard Trident 350 frame & rails with a 300mm bed and a bit of a mix in the two toolheads with the bare minimum of panels etc to get it working.

I managed to get some data off the klipper install and she had a total of 10 printing hours - i.e the setup phase. Looking further into it I realised the prints were delaminating so decided it needed a full reprint ... but on investigating the Tridex documentation it looked like a 300mm bed was still a bit big on this size frame and it was going to take quite a bit to get it to the standard tridex specification ......

.... so a conversion back to a standard trident was the best course for what I wanted  .....a standard trident 350mm with a 300mm bed. The bonus is I still have the Tridex steppers so I can head back down that path with an appropriate frame later on if I want multi-material rather then multi-colour.

 

Edited Thursday at 02:46 PM by lawson.brian

[lawson.brian]

Now, this is where the fun for me starts

With a 300mm bed, it sits in the middle front. Due to this there are a couple of options for calculating head position based on endstops ........

Currently I have it set up with the left side of the bed being 0 and the front of the bed being 0 so left of the bed is -ve. Now this causes some challenges with regards to Z-tilt setup, bed mesh etc so I was considering setting it back up as per a 350mm but specifying the bed as being 25-325 for X and 0-300mm on Y as useable and reduce the bed mesh based on this. Anyone else run down this path?

Z-tilt with Klicky - with the bed set up I was having issues with the z-tilt function not lifting z enough between probes - i.e if the bed was not completely flat it would drag the klicky across it and pre-activate or fully remove it. How do you specify how much to lift in Z prior to each move in the z-tilt function (klicky macros) as I cannot see anything in the environmental config file that will change this?

Canbus - which Mellow Fly boards are recommended? - I see a few are used here. As the Manta M8P has canbus I was wanting to continue to use it. I managed to kill a BTT SB2209 rp2040 board by being a bit careless during initial toolhead testing - i.e the can cable snagged and caused an 'unscheduled removal' of the can plug and a cap  ... I may be able to do a repair but I cannot imagine it will be robust long term.

Having the 300mm bed in the middle front actually opens up some options ..... in theory enough room for a spool on the left and right so, maybe, a 2 channel filament changer?

 

 

 

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, lawson.brian said:

How do you specify how much to lift in Z prior

Set this in the Z-Tilt section. Change this value to 15 for example

horizontal_move_z: 10

 

7 hours ago, lawson.brian said:

Canbus - which Mellow Fly boards are recommended?

I am a bit biased - All my printers have Mellow boards. As they all have Stealthburner toolhead, I use the SB2040 boards. For those printers without Stealthburner, I use the SHT36 from Mellow. Have not had a problem (13 printers with Mellow boards)

 

7 hours ago, lawson.brian said:

in theory enough room for a spool on the left and right

You can do an internal spool on a standard Trident 300 - mine has this. So that won't be a problem

[lawson.brian]

Managed to get a bit done today around the kids;

Swapped the full toolhead from my switchwire with a Nitehawk sb in it and got it to home, complete a z-tilt successfully with a better z-height (thanks Mvdveer) and complete a 7x7 bed mesh within the confines of the bed! Will order a new canbus toolhead from Ali but this gets the printer operational until that arrives and I can complete the rest of the config while I have a bit of time.

Hopefully tomorrow the bed will be wired and possibly a first print ......

Any suggestions for good umbilical brackets for the Stealthburner for the nitehawk sb and later a Mellow Fly sb? I robbed the chain from the SW but only on X not Y which is a bit dodgy still. I see there are some with printable inserts (PUG)?

 

 

[mvdveer]

10 minutes ago, lawson.brian said:

Any suggestions for good umbilical brackets

Depends on the extruder you are running as this will determine the fit to the umbilical mount. There are mounts on printables utilising (These are for galileo2) "PUG", PG7 and Zip tie. (Another PUG)