Doomed Trident 300

[Oneway]

I build better printers than build logs and that will become evident rather quickly. I will post infrequently and forget to post important information and just like any good printer it will never be finished. More photos less details on this one will hopefully make it easier to keep up to date. Lastly this is an afterthought so a lot of the following information will be from memory as this build is close to going brrr so ill do my best to make it somewhat cohesive and close to the build timeline. 

Hopefully this will be of some use to another builder or inspire someone to build an even better numerically controlled glue gun. This build is all the things i wanted within reason, lots of time was spent pouring over the interwebs trying to source components as well as trying to figure out how to configure things once the build was complete,  essentially this printer is all mods and with only one prior build under my belt this whole ordeal was very overwhelming. Self sourcing a custom build is no joke, thank god for discord and the smart guys that know lots of shit, I would have never got to this point without help so maybe this will help somebody else. 

[Oneway]

Frame - x545 x y545 x z760

Build volume - 300x300x300

2020, 2040 and 4040 extrusions machined by dllpdf mfg and powder coated in ground up fairie wings. 

The extrusions  took quite awhile to receive due to high demand on a small company , they make really nice stuff so it was worth the wait. 
 

[Oneway]

Everything was  printed on my Trident which made life so much easier than the first time I did this with a pos printer covered by a cardboard box , no idea how I got useable parts outta that thing but this time it was push a button and walk away. 

Internal parts completely PCCF, voron print standards with the exception of the gantry parts but we will get to that later. 

External parts phaetus black ABS-gf and hatchbox pastel green ABS 

 

 

 

Edited April 1 by Oneway

[Oneway]

I am printing as I go this time rather than everything at once so I can build as I finish the parts and because I havent bought a lot of the hardware, but I do have the frame so rather than installing the skirts last as per the Voron build manual im going ahead and getting them done now. As always I think I would have liked to go with a different green and made a more subdued color combination but since I had a brand new roll of this laying around why not. I absolutely love the ABS/CF from phaetus as well as thier ASA/CF it prints perfectly although it doesnt have the strength I would have liked to have in some of my  other projects it is more than enough for this one. 

Edited April 3 by Oneway
cant type

[Oneway]

Finished up the skirts which took some work, the doomcube stl files on the github are not modeled for a 300mm machine, theres 250 and 350 and theres two different front styles depending on the door cfg. The old ones left the skirts back 20mm like if you have added a clicky clack door on your machine and havent redone the skirts. I luckily found a complete cad file for the entire machine that included the new front skirts with the additional 20mm ledge and was able to hack my way thru with fusion to make them the right size for my machine. 

Electronics up next. So i decided to remodel the layout of the electronics bay that Voron uses and almost everyone else, as well as use the inverted electronics bay mod, honestly it shouldn’t be a mod and should be adopted as how it should be done since it makes everything easier down the road. I wanted this build clean and tidy with very little wire showing as well as mounting the electronics perpendicular to the din rails rather than parallel and divide everthing like a tv dinner, each item has its own place.  I also flipped the build plate drag chain to the opposite side, because i can and because the layout lends itself to wires running up the right side rather than left. 

Rails greased and installed, Berserker mgn9s from West3d, as well as titanium backers. 

Motors for zed are LDO 300mm steppers with teflon coated lead screws along with the spacer mod to drop the end of the the leadscrews like 12mm, I did this on my trident in order to run the mjolnir toolhead from armchair engineering but for this its 100% for vanity, it just looks better. The z linear rails are mgn12h rather than the usual mgn9, yes it looks beefier and no it is not needed but I had rails lying around so why not save a buck or two. The build plate is the Mandala Roseworks superflat magbed,  this was also lying in my ridiculous pile of spare parts due to its unwillingness to play nicely with beacon, I took it off my Trident but wasnt about to buy another plate again even though this build was going to run beacon as well. I  honestly have no idea why anyone doesnt run beacon or even the carto but to each their own, I will never build another printer that doesn’t unless something new comes out that’s better. To utilize the build plate I came up with the idea to print some inserts the same dimensions as the magnets in the plate to begin with and cover them with a magnetic sheet, I used PC which I hope holds up to the heat planned but for now it worked perfect and a chunck of cash saved. 

Electronics 

Meanwell LRS-200-24

Raspberry pi 4b

Octopus Pro f446 1.1

btt 2209 drivers

Meanwell LRS 25-5

Since im writing this in the future several things are going to change before we get current but i will write to match the photos 

I had a different plan for the voltage and drivers up to this point but decided to stick with what i knew rather than have to figure out 48v and 5160 drivers and the setup associated with going that route. I have only built one other trident before this several years ago and though ive modded it to death I really dont have the technical knowledge to do some of the more exotic mods so I opted for the easier safer route so i could actually finish this someday. 

I designed the mounting system for the wire channels and modified the cad for the wire channels themselves so that it would all fit nicely as well as Frankensteining all the electronic mounts since nothing really fit, of course i would have done a few things differently now but I think it came out ok and besides it will give me something to change later . 

 

Edited April 3 by Oneway

[Oneway]

Ill never get through this if i log my actual thought process and steps, so ill keep it shorter as much as possible. 

Im stuck waiting on parts for the gantry so jumped to the toolhead to get it done, this wont be the actual toolhead when the build is further along since the final one isnt released yet and will be the toolhead that will really change things, its all hush hush at the moment but its coming. 

toolhead A4T by Tas at Armchair Engineering

Board - LDO nitehawk 36 (temporary for setup and dialing in printer)

Hotend - Phaetus dragon ace volcano CHCB series w/ 100watt heater cartridge

Nozzle - only west3d undertakers, theres no reason to ever run anything else and they last forever so a real no brainer.

Fans - Always Deltas when i counts. 

Extruder - WWBMG 

Filament - 3dxtech ezPCCF

About this toolhead, Tas did a great job on designing this one, its a really nice build and fairly easy even with finicky plastic to print, if you need a new one or want to replace your dated SB for something with decent cooling and a really broad compatibility list of hotends and extruders give this a try. 

I really like the nitehawk board and would keep it if it played well out in the heat but I dont think its gonna like the chamber temps north of 70c once im paneled and insulated but for setup you cant beat it, so much easier than CANbus but back to straight umbilical ill be going in the near future. 

Installed the bed fans as well, I decided to try a new approach rather than the usual 4 5015s, these are Artic 120mm 12v hardware controlled pwm fans, I made up a little splitter for the connections as well but havent got it done yet, these fans are silent, super low profile and move a ton of air. 

 

Started wiring, really close to powering it up now.

 

Parts finally arrived for the next step. 

Gantry - Monolith 2wd 9mm belts

Steppers - steppersonline 17hs19-2504s-h-v1 2.5amp

Pulleys - genuine Gates

Bearings - West3d berzerker flanged 695

Belts -  Gates G2 EPDM 9mm 

This took some time to complete, there is no manual or setup guide just a configuration generator and a bom the rest is on you. What I will say about this and with building . vorons in general is if you actually are reading this and trying to figure out how to build a really good printer or just building your first Voron, Discord is your friend , and the amount of knowledge there is staggering if you know where to look. If you want a bunch of nonsense and horrible advice from overnight experts than by all means ask your question on facebook or reddit but you will get mostly bad advice, answers or criticisms on parts of your photo for items you arent even asking about and typical nonsense or drop into the voron discord and open a help ticket and get your problem solved by people who really know whats up, for me its always some little mistake in the cfg that will take seconds to diagnose. If I didnt have Discord for help I would never have finished this build and if i did finish it  wouldnt run nearly as well as its about to soon. 

Helpful Places if your stuck or just need advice.

obviously discord, 

channels -

Armchair Heavy Industries

Monolith

Doomcube

VoronDesign

West3dprinting

Parts for monolith need to be incredibly strong due to the extreme belt tension so again i used the pccf with 12 walls and 12 top and bottom , I spent a good amount of time making sure the filament was tuned perfectly or as good as i could anyway so that my tolerances were spot on. I also decided to go 2wd instead of AWD for now , im in pretty much over my head on this build and dealing with AWD just seemed to be to much but I do plan on upgrading as soon as wayne releases the cnc kits for monolith. 

Starting to look like a printer now. 

I also added a couple neopixel strips under the bed to light up the electronics bay when i need to see. 

 

After the usual headaches writing the config and a few help tickets pulled in the voron discord and triple checking my wiring I did the ole hold your breath and push the button, no magic smoke, lights cam on and it homed, well it homed backwards and changing the dir pin didnt fix it because after all my checking I still got the x and y steppers swapped somehow, easy fix and it started to home and stopped immediately as expected before tuning the sensorless homing, if you dont run sensorless I can only stare blankly and ask why? I havent had an endstop on a printer in a few years and will never as long as the drivers support it, just makes life easier. 

 

It lives. It homed, and it printed a quick voron cube very nicely and then I started thinking. 

 

 

Something was missing.