PETG/HTPLA Stealthburner

[3DCoded]

A couple months ago, I converted my Klipperized Prusa MK3S+ to run on the Stealthburner toolhead. However, since I don't print ASA due to the fumes, I printed it in PETG. When I originally assembled it, it worked fine, but wear and tear is happening a lot faster than I thought. The ECAS fitting already pops off with minimal force. 

 

I'm thinking about reprinting it in either PETG or HTPLA (Protopasta). As far as I understand, all Voron parts were designed with ABS shrinkage in mind. Does anyone know the proper slicer settings (XY size compensation) to print Voron parts with non-ABS?

 

Also, does anyone here have experience printing a Stealthburner out of PETG or HTPLA? If so, I would really appreciate it if you could tell me some tips.

[Ogurezzz]

Stealthburner parts are not large.

Your prusa definitely can print them with ABS.

Use slow speed (20-30 mm/sec) and 0.1 layer height will help you.

Put box on your printer to isolate from wind. Or even she'll perimeter around printing parts will help you to get successful prints.

[CyBerJak]

If you make a simple enclosure even like suggested above, or like I did with a small coffee table and radiator aluminised insulation. And even nicer there are simple DIY and retail made air filters that can deal with the VOCs of ABS ( Fysetc make a few which could be even self sourced parts if you are hard pressed for time ) or any of the Air Filters made for resin printers (Sunlu and elegoo come to mind ) as they as well have the active carbon filters at least. And if you are worried about nano/micro particles some even have full Hepa filters and recirculate the air in the cham er so as not to cause heat loss.

Just my thoughts anyway 

[claudermilk]

ABS or ASA would be best. That's what the Voron parts are deigned for. As has been stated, your Prusa can print them in ABS. I printed my entire Trident 250 on my Prusa Mini+ I kept the box the kit shipped in and used that as an enclosure and it worked great. I was even able to cram a small desk lamp and web cam in to monitor the prints.

[3DCoded]

Thank you all for your replies. My Prusa is in the Original Prusa Enclosure so I’ll work on printing some air filters (or just moving the printer out to the garage). The Aire filters look good for the price and I already have the fans and magnets… 

 

[3DCoded]

Another question. Is printing the parts with a 0.6 nozzle ok? Or is it recommended to use a 0.4? The Voron recommendations specify a 0.4mm external perimeter width, but I can get that with my 0.6 CHT. 

[Ogurezzz]

Printing wall width less than nozzle diameter is not a good idea.

[3DCoded]

Ok. I'll switch to the 0.4 then. Thank you!

[3DPCoug]

I printed all of my Voron 2.4 parts on a Prusa MK3s using eSun ABS+ without an enclosure.  The ABS+ printed very well using standard 0.4mm nozzle, Bed temp ~100C with glue stick on flat PEI sheet.  I did have to do some experimentation to get the settings right though.  

[3DCoded]

20 minutes ago, 3DPCoug said:

I printed all of my Voron 2.4 parts on a Prusa MK3s using eSun ABS+ without an enclosure.  The ABS+ printed very well using standard 0.4mm nozzle, Bed temp ~100C with glue stick on flat PEI sheet.  I did have to do some experimentation to get the settings right though.  

Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm not really concerned about how I'm going to print ABS/ASA. My main concern is how to print it safely.