Nothing ventured, nothing gained (Voron 2.4 used purchase recovery)

[scyyie]

Hello again! I hope I chose the correct category, if not please let me know. I'm asking for insight and assistance to learn how to get this build up and running. To easier understand the situation, I'll give some details. Please forgive me as I'm doing my best to understand everything as I go as this is my first interaction with anything voron related. I am a glutton for punishment, but also eager to learn/stubborn.

I drove from NJ to MD to buy this build off Facebook marketplace. I was told it wasn't used in over a year. 

Specs that I can identify are as follows:

300mm bed, clicky probe, stealthburner, sb2040 for the toolhead with a knomi v1 interface, linear rails, 4 z-axis motors, Raspberry pi 4, BTT octopus v1, umbilical cord, klipper screen. I could be forgetting things. 

The Raspberry Pi 4 had python 3.7. Everything was in canbus mode (I think). I was told the pi SD wasn't wiped since there were many customized files. I have pulled off the SD card content for my records. 

Here's my sequence of events thus far. 

Turned on, klipper screen was only working as a screen for the rp4. Showing the code running to get everything running though no interface. An error was stated something along the lines of asking for a mainsail password. After digging around for 2 days I went ahead with flashing the rp4 with mainsailOS, understanding that the wiring for this could be all set up specifically for whatever the previous owner had configured. I have been checking connections as best I can as I go. Once the rp4 was flashed, I was not able to see the BTT octopus via putty console. Through more digging, I learned that the octopus was in canbus mode. My inexperienced perception led me to flash klipper onto the octopus to clear canbus mode since no other information seemed apparent. I have then successfully shown the octopus as a device on the rp4. 

You might ask why wouldn't I leave everything in canbus? Well I didn't (and still dont) know the full scope of using/not using canbus. I simply wanted to identify a base line of operation (homing, printing, calibration, etc) before I attempted to integrate something I know nothing about. C'est la vie, here we are. 

I have since been able to home the printer, x and y. Z homing was using the button behind the bed, though i had to enter the coordinates. The quad gantry leveling, I now realize is interesting. Considering there are abrasive marks on the sides, indicates to me that there were some mistakes made prior to me obtaining the printer, but I also have made those marks somewhat worse in my attempts to get homing down. Again, another lesson learned, and I can home the toolhead!

My next plan was to flash klipper onto the sb2040. My reasoning is i can see the pins on the sb2040 have the clicky probe wired specifically to GPIO28. I was thinking if I can flash the sb2040, then the rp4 will recognize it, then I'll be able to utilize the gpio28 pin to have the clicky probe function for Quad Gantry Leveling. Allowing me to almost reach that baseline function. 

That's my thinking. I know this is a lot and any consideration or input I am extremely grateful for. Thank you for reading and take care. 

[mvdveer]

Well - there is a lot. A good thing you have backed up the SD before flashing as it would have the printer.cfg file on there with the serial id/ UUID of the Octopus board as well as the SB2040.

The SB2040 would also have the connections for the Hotted Fan, Parts fan, Nozzle heater, Nozzle thermistor, X-Endstop and nozzle LED's, so you would need those. The advantage of CAN is that you only have 4 wires running to the toolhead. If you want to get rid of CAN, you will need to rewire all the above mentioned to the Octopus board - adding a multitude of wires to the printhead, or change the SB2040 to a USB can board and run a USB cable to the Octopus board.

Toolhead Setup:

Option 1: Octopus as the Can Bridge with SB2040 (Can Cable to Octopus)

Option 2: Octopus, Canbridge, SB2040 (Can Bridge can be the Fly UTOC1, Waveshare pi Hat, etc) (Can Cable to Octopus)

Option 3: Octopus, USB Tool board such as the LDO Nighthawk board. (USB to Octopus)

Option 4: Octopus, Hartk Toolboard (Wires - plenty to Octopus board)

Seeing you already have the SB2040, I'll stick with that. (I have 5 printers set up this way, only two has the octopus board as the Canbridge, the others have the Fly Utoc boards)

What you could do:

1. Start by a fresh install of mainsail OS on the SD card. (Which you have done)
2. Flash the Octopus board with Katapult/Canboot 
3. Flash the SB2040 with Katapult/Canboot
4. Setup the Can network
5. Flash the octopus board with Klipper
6. Flash the SB2040 with Klipper
7. Transfer the old printer.cfg file to the new SD card (This can be uploaded, then edited through mainsail which I find the easiest way)
8. Ensure the serial/by-id/ or UUID's are correct under sections [mcu] and [mcu SB2040]
9. Change the pin definitions in printer.cfg file if needed
10. Run through the configuration checks
11. Tune the printer using the Ellis guide
12. Enjoy your Voron!

How To: See the Akhamar guide that explains this step by step as well as the  Esoterical Guide

Hope this shines some light. Shout out with specifics as you go along

 

[scyyie]

Thank you for the response! To address the state of things then, it seems my best bet would be to put CAN on considering it was apparently running can. I should take pictures for documentation. Yes your option 1 seems to be the way for sure.

I had a sinking feeling, I believe I somehow didn't grab what I needed off the SD or didnt navigate properly. The SD files were the picture attached. I was looking for a .cfg file at the time and didnt see one. I am not sure of the proper location or maybe I pulled from a directory that I wasnt supposed to. If i have to do everything all over because of this so be it.
I will read up on the links you provided, proceed with your steps and put updates here. Thank you so much mvdveer for giving me a direction.

 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, scyyie said:

I believe I somehow didn't grab what I needed off the SD or didnt navigate properly.

 I have uploaded a copy of my printer.cfg file for your reference. This is one that runs a V2.4 300mm build in Octopus CanBridge mode with a SB2040 Toolhead board. As you see they both have Canbus UUID's. Ignore/Delete all the [include ......] files as these reference other configurations that Klipper use. Have uploaded those as well just for reference, so you can see what they do.

This is an old configuration with the TAP probe,  so your [Probe] section will possibly need to be changed for your Klicky Probe configuration.

(My current configuration will be a bit confusing as it has a BEACON probe as well as the TurtleBox mmu configurations included, which you don't need)

 

printer.cfg bedfans.cfg macros.cfg neopixel.cfg nozzle_scrub.cfg spoolman.cfg

[mvdveer]

There is no reason why these [include] files cannot directly be entered in the printer.cfg file, but I find that it makes it messy. Easier giving each section their own configuration and referencing it to in an [include file_name.cfg] file

[claudermilk]

Did you just grab those files off the SD or did you make a mirror image of the SD? The current location for the printer config files is ~/printer_data/config and the printer history database files are in ~/printer_data/database.

I'll second @mvdveer's suggestion to break out the config into multiple smaller files. It makes maintaining each one much simpler. The include statements go in the base printer.cfg file.

[scyyie]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Did you just grab those files off the SD or did you make a mirror image of the SD? The current location for the printer config files is ~/printer_data/config and the printer history database files are in ~/printer_data/database.

I'll second @mvdveer's suggestion to break out the config into multiple smaller files. It makes maintaining each one much simpler. The include statements go in the base printer.cfg file.

I cannot say which as I don't know the difference of mirroring to copying over the files to my pc. I just copied all that I seen when I connected to the rp4. 

I understand in hindsight I could have saved myself a good deal by making sure I was accessing the rp4 correctly. 

Thank you for the double down on their suggestion. It's the cleanest config file I've seen emulating it will not only develop good habits but I'll learn a lot as well. 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, scyyie said:

I just copied all that I seen when I connected to the rp4

That would probably just copied the "boot" partition. 

[scyyie]

Alrighty so I flashed the bootloader of the octopus to canboot.

I am attempting to put the SB2040 into DFU mode to flash its bootloader with canboot but the method I use (holding boot button as I plug the board in) seems to have no effect as when I use the command lsusb it only shows the following:

pi@raspberrypi:~/CanBoot $ lsusb
Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub
Bus 001 Device 004: ID 1d50:6177 OpenMoko, Inc. stm32f446xx
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 2109:3431 VIA Labs, Inc. Hub
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub

The SB2040 is connected to the can port on the octopus via yellow and white wires. Does it need to be connected differently for it to be detected in DFU mode or is the method im using incorrect?

 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, scyyie said:

The SB2040 is connected to the can port on the octopus via yellow and white wires. Does it need to be connected differently for it to be detected in DFU mode or is the method im using incorrect

Disconnect 24V and can wires. Only have USB connected.

[scyyie]

Great that made me progress though, I have it connected to pc while holding boot button, lsusb still shows the same information, except now I have a "usb device connected" sound playing and an RPI-RP2 directory, seems like its being mounted but lsusb doesnt show anything for me to flash.

[scyyie]

15 hours ago, scyyie said:

Great that made me progress though, I have it connected to pc while holding boot button, lsusb still shows the same information, except now I have a "usb device connected" sound playing and an RPI-RP2 directory, seems like its being mounted but lsusb doesnt show anything for me to flash.

got it, was a base mistake, didnt have the sb2040 connected through RP4. I just had my pc connected to the sb2040 by itself. How silly of me.

Some time has passed and...

I believe I have reached a new point! I have copied mvdveer's .cfg file and I am editing it to the best of my ability to work with what wiring my unit has, while going about the calibration process linked.

[mvdveer]

Great progress, glad to see it is up and running. Soon you’ll be printing like no one else.

[scyyie]

Thank you mvdveer! You flatter me. I hope to learn so I can give back. In the mean time I'll keep my updates going.

[scyyie]

Alright good morning, new update. 

Thanks to the config files provided I'm actually on my feet albiet wobbly. Lighting for the toolhead is good though not the enclosure. The pinout on octopus I have set to SB0 but they don't come on and the connector started to get warm so that was unplugged immediately. It wasn't my wiring prior so I'm going to tear them out and redo it from scratch. Aside from light I did get some prints though there's a main concern.

 

The prints are good, though:

- I have been getting undervoltage errors in klipper. While everything seems to be functioning correctly, I haven't measured anything nor do I know the full extent. 

- The extruder for the Rapido hotend is terribly hot to the touch as it's running. I mean, stove hot. I haven't touched many extruders while operating, but what caused me to here was that it makes a constant whining noise only while extruding. Gantry movement is fine, Z axis is fine, only extrusion. I took the stealthburner assy apart and reassembled according to their manual, and still making the same noise. I made sure the main gear wasn't coming in contact with the motor, the bearings were gently placed, the pinion gear is interface correctly with the stealthburner gear, etc. 

The current to the motor is 0.6A. The SB2040 temp is reading upwards of 65c though I've seen mention that the temp reading by the board can be offset by 10°. I have since not ran anything through it. I'll send what i do have here to document as I don't see too much on this topic. 

If anyone has any leads, I'm happy to try them. In the meantime I'll post what I have. Thank you again thus far. 

[scyyie]

Here's a video where you can see printing seems fine, though you can hear a few different noises. The one concern is the higher pitched and persistent noise. Those with tinnitus like myself might recognize it first

I'd love any and all input as usual. 

[scyyie]

9 hours ago, scyyie said:

Here's a video where you can see printing seems fine, though you can hear a few different noises. The one concern is the higher pitched and persistent noise. Those with tinnitus like myself might recognize it first

I'd love any and all input as usual. 

Nevermind, changed the current for the Extruder from 0.6A to 0.3A. That was a mistake on my part for not checking which motor was in the toolhead. The motor was rated for 0.3-0.35A. Noises are gone and temps are normal.

[mvdveer]

14 hours ago, scyyie said:

I have been getting undervoltage errors in klipper.

This normally happens when the Raspi is underpowered. some ways to solve this. Run power to raspi from a dedicated 5V supply to the GPIO pins, and not from the printer board.

Connect the 5V to both 5V GPIO pins on the Raspi

Supply power to the Raspi through the USB port, not the GPIO pins

[claudermilk]

If it's powered from the GPIO, add the second 5V line. That solved mine throwing undervolt errors.

[scyyie]

Checked the RP4, both 5v (pins 2 and 4) were connected, though only one ground was connected, the other was disconnected. Reconnected the second ground and I havent had an undervoltage thus far.

In another topic, Ive added some lights so I can see what I'm working on more easily. A visual decency if you will. 

 

Edited February 20 by scyyie