Tap changer

[BlackNet]

12 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

Any one know of a working link to known good 6x3 n52 magnets as the ones on the voron bom sheet don't work for ally express not sure if might be to do with my location or not and local suppliers want 2 dollars each which to me seems a bit high

I have used https://jc-magnetics.com/ , located in NY, with the gold N52 magnets from my photo above.

Edited January 24 by BlackNet

[NikosSprocket]

On 1/22/2025 at 8:53 PM, Bino said:

I would be highly interested. Looking to build a StealthChanger using a Mini Stealthburner with LGX Lite.
There seems to be a usermod for that alreadt: https://github.com/DraftShift/StealthChanger/tree/main/UserMods/jdmontgomer/MiniSB_SC

I used the full size LGX previously with the Afterburners, but the full size LGX takes some much space on the SB that I decided to try the smaller Lite. Unfortunately, I found that even the LGX Lite does not leave enough space on the left side to connect the SB0000 board with the SB2209 CAN board so I created an "extension" cable from the SB0000 to the SB2209 board in the back. If I had to do it again, maybe I used a EBB36/42 CAN on the back and the usual JST connectors to the Fans, heater. LEDs etc. I still like that when I am going to service the SB I will only have to disconnect one connector from the SB0000.

The CAD drawings showing the male/female 2x7 header connectors that need to be extended. I had to design from scratch the "chassis" to hold the  SB2209, and IGUS chain. Also, highly modified the SB LGX Lite holder.

By next week, I should have all the parts. Then I will let you know if all these really work! lol

[sleepster217]

3 hours ago, BlackNet said:

I have used https://jc-magnetics.com/ , located in NY, with the gold N52 magnets from my photo above.

Yeah freight kills it thankyou though 45 just for freight 

[sleepster217]

9 minutes ago, NikosSprocket said:

I used the full size LGX previously with the Afterburners, but the full size LGX takes some much space on the SB that I decided to try the smaller Lite. Unfortunately, I found that even the LGX Lite does not leave enough space on the left side to connect the SB0000 board with the SB2209 CAN board so I created an "extension" cable from the SB0000 to the SB2209 board in the back. If I had to do it again, maybe I used a EBB36/42 CAN on the back and the usual JST connectors to the Fans, heater. LEDs etc. I still like that when I am going to service the SB I will only have to disconnect one connector from the SB0000.

The CAD drawings showing the male/female 2x7 header connectors that need to be extended. I had to design from scratch the "chassis" to hold the  SB2209, and IGUS chain. Also, highly modified the SB LGX Lite holder.

By next week, I should have all the parts. Then I will let you know if all these really work! lol

I have on my current config not changer a stealthburner with and ebb2209 rp2040 the works well I just want to go smaller as I am thinking about going with the rapid burner setup better parts cooling I also have the knomi screen on mine also not sure if my sb being extended to fit the rapido2 uhf would cause issues for the changer and the front is not the same and I am not that good at doing cad stuff yet

[BlackNet]

3 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Yeah freight kills it thankyou though 45 just for freight 

Guess you are not us based ?

[sleepster217]

2 hours ago, BlackNet said:

Guess you are not us based ?

No Australia

[Penatr8tor]

23 hours ago, BlackNet said:

Nice but what does that have to do with tapchanger?

It has nothing to do with tapchanger.

It was a response to a comment that @sleepster217 made that is quoted above my comment where he said...

"Then that will be my next project a second printer mabie a voron 0.2"

There's no fixed rule that prohibits the author from going off topic and also no restriction to anyone responding to it kind of like your comment above?

Your comment is nice but, what does it have to do with tapchanger?

See what I did there? 

[BlackNet]

7 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

It has nothing to do with tapchanger.

It was a response to a comment that @sleepster217 made that is quoted above my comment where he said...

"Then that will be my next project a second printer mabie a voron 0.2"

There's no fixed rule that prohibits the author from going off topic and also no restriction to anyone responding to it kind of like your comment above?

Your comment is nice but, what does it have to do with tapchanger?

See what I did there? 

I was speaking in terms of violating guideline #3, to be specific.  Please keep it on topic.  The topic is tapchanger, a toolchanger and not generic printer builds.

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, BlackNet said:

Please keep it on topic.

"GUIDLINES" not chiseled in stone rules... If the moderators have an issue, I'm sure they'll let me know.

Thank you for alerting me, it's much appreciated. 

[sleepster217]

thankyou for the help so far ladies and gentlemen i think we will leave this rules topic alone now we are all trying to help each other and i love the imput from you all

 

as for the pro series ebb board any ideas on when they will get released as i would be curious as to what they can do the main thing i want is reliable and cand do the shaping run the fans and temp probes on the print head

[Penatr8tor]

On 1/24/2025 at 12:27 AM, NikosSprocket said:

Unfortunately, I found that even the LGX Lite does not leave enough space on the left side to connect the SB0000 board with the SB2209 CAN board so I created an "extension" cable from the SB0000 to the SB2209 board in the back.

Yup, had to do the same thing on my 2.4. LGX Lite was just a little too wide. I also created a special cable and rear mounted my toolboard. I'm now going to switch over to the mellow SB2040 V2 CAN board and am facing the same issue once again. This time I'm going to just alter the CAD model a bit. The right side of the front cowl needs to be moved a couple mm so that the fan/LED board can line up with the CAN board.

[sleepster217]

I just got the ****s up with my sb2209 and took the side pannel off keep breaking wires as it is so tight in there trying to get it all plugged in so I think I can see why u are doing it hoping changing print head and can board will prevent this from happening again 

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

I just got the ****s up with my sb2209 and took the side pannel off keep breaking wires as it is so tight in there trying to get it all plugged in so I think I can see why u are doing it hoping changing print head and can board will prevent this from happening again 

Ya know if I just broke down and printed up a CW2... I wouldn't have to change anything but, I'm not that guy. 

[sleepster217]

11 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Ya know if I just broke down and printed up a CW2... I wouldn't have to change anything but, I'm not that guy. 

Yeah I get u I am still trying to get my head around the whole fusion 360

 

Speaking of fusion 360 I got a little bit of that camera mount working still not 100percent but better for the new revision camera need to trim more off the inner corners for chip clearance do u rember what bolts u used on your mount 

[sleepster217]

I just found this on AliExpress: 
AU$34.99 | FYSETC Stealthchanger CNC Shuttle kit SB COMBO V2 Board Tool Distribution Board H36 Board
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPWZbvN

 

Got this on order bit not sure we're to mount it don't really want to put it in the electronics bay and having 6 can cables coming out when I get it finished will be a nightmare so was thinking of mounting it on the back near the outlet filter and would u guys enclose it as looks like it would not get very warm or do a mesh type enclosure and mabie a small fan 

[7milesup]

...

[7milesup]

Duplicate posts...sorry

[7milesup]

Ok.. I have a stupid question.  Is there a system like this that works with Beacon and not Tap?  I was considering removing my Tap, or would one keep the Tap and integrate Beacon?  Asking for a friend

[sleepster217]

54 minutes ago, 7milesup said:

Ok.. I have a stupid question.  Is there a system like this that works with Beacon and not Tap?  I was considering removing my Tap, or would one keep the Tap and integrate Beacon?  Asking for a friend

No idea to be honest I assume u could just put a beacon carriage on one and just not put the tap pcb 

 

Can I ask what is wrong with tap I am running the cnc one on my sb and seems to work fine and what is the advantage to beacon

[BlackNet]

2 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

No idea to be honest I assume u could just put a beacon carriage on one and just not put the tap pcb 

Can I ask what is wrong with tap I am running the cnc one on my sb and seems to work fine and what is the advantage to beacon

This is one of the issues I have with both tool-changers, Tap and Stealth.  They split a regular Tap into two parts and used it as the junction point.  The issue is this: if you do NOT want to use tap but something else, you are stuck with it.  If this was brought up, and it has, the answer is, "Just don't use it and use the replacement instead; it's not a problem. I followed up with all these people who don't have a problem with it, so it must be you.  The real issue is they should never have split Tap in the first place. 

If the mount point were AFTER tap, then we would be free to use any/all tap setups or not use it at all but something else.

[sleepster217]

2 hours ago, BlackNet said:

This is one of the issues I have with both tool-changers, Tap and Stealth.  They split a regular Tap into two parts and used it as the junction point.  The issue is this: if you do NOT want to use tap but something else, you are stuck with it.  If this was brought up, and it has, the answer is, "Just don't use it and use the replacement instead; it's not a problem. I followed up with all these people who don't have a problem with it, so it must be you.  The real issue is they should never have split Tap in the first place. 

If the mount point were AFTER tap, then we would be free to use any/all tap setups or not use it at all but something else.

I think the reason they used tap as the split point cause it all rdy moves my question to u is dose beacon need to touch the plate like tap or is it more like the original type probe for the voron and it dose some wizard stuff (but better ) if it dose not need to touch the plate that I would just build the tapchanger just minus the tap sensor and attach your beacon how ever u do that but to be honest I don't know a lot about beacon hope this helps

[Penatr8tor]

On 1/25/2025 at 11:05 PM, sleepster217 said:

Yeah I get u I am still trying to get my head around the whole fusion 360

Speaking of fusion 360 I got a little bit of that camera mount working still not 100percent but better for the new revision camera need to trim more off the inner corners for chip clearance do u rember what bolts u used on your mount 

They were all M3 and the smaller Voron inserts

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, sleepster217 said:

I think the reason they used tap as the split point cause it all rdy moves my question to u is dose beacon need to touch the plate like tap or is it more like the original type probe for the voron and it dose some wizard stuff (but better ) if it dose not need to touch the plate that I would just build the tapchanger just minus the tap sensor and attach your beacon how ever u do that but to be honest I don't know a lot about beacon hope this helps

The beacon operates in two modes, Scan mode and Contact mode.

Scan reads the bed just like any inductive probe with one exception... It can probe 1000X faster, that's why it can just float over the surface. Mine probes ~35000 points in 2 passes at 500 mm/s.

Contact works similar to TAP in that it physically touches the build sheet, but it uses its ability to rapidly scan to detect within micro-seconds that the head has stopped moving and has contacted something. TAP can be done with a simple inexpensive switch

Now when it comes down to using a beacon probe on multiple switchable toolheads... I don't even know if klipper can run more than one beacon TBH and it's probably more expensive and more trouble than it's worth.

[sleepster217]

25 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

The beacon operates in two modes, Scan mode and Contact mode.

Scan reads the bed just like any inductive probe with one exception... It can probe 1000X faster, that's why it can just float over the surface. Mine probes ~35000 points in 2 passes at 500 mm/s.

Contact works similar to TAP in that it physically touches the build sheet, but it uses its ability to rapidly scan to detect within micro-seconds that the head has stopped moving and has contacted something. TAP can be done with a simple inexpensive switch

Now when it comes down to using a beacon probe on multiple switchable toolheads... I don't even know if klipper can run more than one beacon TBH and it's probably more expensive and more trouble than it's worth.

If u look at tap changer and I am talking in principle they have set the tap to only do its thing on print head 0 so I would assume u could do the same but using ya beacon the only thing u may want to do is make sure the magnets that hold the head on are strong enough to not move when using the beacon now rembering I have not used beacon but just rember seeing that they only have the probe in one head I was going to set tap on all cause some times I only use one colour and we all know Murphy but that is not to say that u could not have beacon on head 0 it dose its stuff and then parks it and u go from there but worth a look mabie but I can see u needing to make either a custom print head or just one to hold the probe ?JUST MY 2 CENTS

[sleepster217]

46 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

They were all M3 and the smaller Voron inserts

Ok thankyou looks like the holes are smaller on the board to lol 

Oh well thought I should ask in case it was like a m2 or m3 self tapper