Tap changer

[sleepster217]

58 minutes ago, NikosSprocket said:

I use plexiglass for all the covers and a lot of "clips" to keep it tight to the foam tape. I tried to make it as airtight as possible by using 1/4 Inch Wide X 1/16 Inch Thick Adhesive Foam Tape between the plexiglass and the extrusions. Also, I do not vent-out, but I have a Nevermore filter installed inside. It will take about 30-50 min. to bring the internal temp. to 55+ deg. C for the 300 V2.4. I also, use a macro that puts the head in the middle of the box with extruder off and the fans (parts and Nevermore) running to circulate the air in the chamber and also get the internal temperature reading from the extruder's thermistor.

Ok sounds good yeah might print some more clips I do also cover my printer with a blanket and that helps a lot I don't have the nevermore but I have one thay is similar on my 2.4 350 big filter 2 fans in the middle and 2 on the outside I will look at turning to outside one off or mabie comes on after 55 deg my chamber temp probe is on the back of the gantry near the cable chains not sure were the best place is to put it

[Penatr8tor]

12 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

Wow! I never used an industrial FDM printer. I don't think a Voron printer can operate in that high temperatures. What are your thoughts?

I am happy when my V2.4r2 gets to 60 deg. C for printing ASA and ABS.

I mean it's possible to run a Voron at 90c chamber temp but... I would assume that some of the printed components or inexpensive electronics could fail. I would bet that my VzBot would fair better as it is almost entirely CNC aluminum, except for things like fan ducts and mufflers and grills and stuff.

[NikosSprocket]

11 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Ok sounds good yeah might print some more clips I do also cover my printer with a blanket and that helps a lot I don't have the nevermore but I have one thay is similar on my 2.4 350 big filter 2 fans in the middle and 2 on the outside I will look at turning to outside one off or mabie comes on after 55 deg my chamber temp probe is on the back of the gantry near the cable chains not sure were the best place is to put it

I do not have any data, but I think the exhaust fan, even when it's off, it's a major contributor of heat lose as it's located at the very top of the "box". I have removed the whole exhaust fan assembly and made a "blank" plate that only has the bowden tube. Foam gasket is also installed.

Which filter are you using. I am always looking for other solutions.

UPDATE: I am working on a way to also seal the bottom plate, without loosing function, especially on the 350 which started warping as it has less support from the rails.

Edited February 12 by NikosSprocket

[sleepster217]

This is the bed filters i am running fairly easy to print the pogo plugs are hard to find as the first lot i got were not right and did not fit but makes them so easy to remove I have been thinking about modding the file to add a couple of magnets to make them more secure but that is for a later

 

 

https://www.printables.com/model/334276-the-filter-for-voron-24

[NikosSprocket]

4 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

This is the bed filters i am running fairly easy to print the pogo plugs are hard to find as the first lot i got were not right and did not fit but makes them so easy to remove I have been thinking about modding the file to add a couple of magnets to make them more secure but that is for a later

https://www.printables.com/model/334276-the-filter-for-voron-24

Many thanks @sleepster217!

That looks a lot nicer than the Nevermore.

Darn! I will have to make a couple.

 

UPDATE: I found on Amazon 8mm 2 Pin Pogo plugs. I may have to modify the Pogo holes (CAD) to fit this Pogo plugs.

Edited February 13 by NikosSprocket

[Penatr8tor]

@NikosSprocket I know you're using a block-off plate but...

I designed a new and improved filter for the Voron here...

It uses a 150mmx100mmx15mm standard vacuum cleaner HEPA filter, and it's backed up with a 3mm activated charcoal sheet. 

 

Bolts up to standard Voron rear panel and uses all the same Voron parts (fan).

 

 

Filters fit nice and snug and the HEPA has a foam seal. As long as the fan is off... you will lose less heat than the plexiglass panels. And if you mount a thermistor in the plenum... you can use the fan to modulate chamber temp.

If you're interested, hit me up and I'll post up STEP & STLs.

 

[sleepster217]

18 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I mean it's possible to run a Voron at 90c chamber temp but... I would assume that some of the printed components or inexpensive electronics could fail. I would bet that my VzBot would fair better as it is almost entirely CNC aluminum, except for things like fan ducts and mufflers and grills and stuff.

Well u need to get a milo and cnc everything out of ally

[sleepster217]

11 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

Many thanks @sleepster217!

That looks a lot nicer than the Nevermore.

Darn! I will have to make a couple.

UPDATE: I found on Amazon 8mm 2 Pin Pogo plugs. I may have to modify the Pogo holes (CAD) to fit this Pogo plugs.

If u are going to mod it I would recommend in particular put a magnet on the side of the bracket and one that lines up on the filter 2 and mabie one on each side of the big one but that one is no so bad 

 

Also this one is a lot easier to print than the nethermore and takes the same fans lid slides off nice no bolts req on filter just need a couple for the Pogo mounts

[claudermilk]

4 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Well u need to get a milo and cnc everything out of ally

An enabler comment if I've ever read one!

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Well u need to get a milo and cnc everything out of ally

Way ahead of ya buddy. 

 

[NikosSprocket]

11 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

If u are going to mod it I would recommend in particular put a magnet on the side of the bracket and one that lines up on the filter 2 and mabie one on each side of the big one but that one is no so bad 

Also this one is a lot easier to print than the nethermore and takes the same fans lid slides off nice no bolts req on filter just need a couple for the Pogo mounts

I am going down the rabbit hole!!!

I did a quick "check" from the F3d provided drawings (awesome and many thanks!) and I see a few more areas that can be done differently.

• You do not need to remove the top of the 5015 fan; it fits with it. At least per CAD drawings. Maybe the fans can be raised inside the base.
• The hexagon air inlets are smaller than the turbine designed opening. Probably match the two diameters.
• Maybe reduce the length of the body, as there is a lot of extra space behind the 5015s.
• The front louvres are below the mounting bracket; airflow.

I told you, I am going down the rabbit hole!!!!

Edited February 13 by NikosSprocket

[sleepster217]

On 2/14/2025 at 7:44 AM, NikosSprocket said:

I am going down the rabbit hole!!!

I did a quick "check" from the F3d provided drawings (awesome and many thanks!) and I see a few more areas that can be done differently.

• You do not need to remove the top of the 5015 fan; it fits with it. At least per CAD drawings. Maybe the fans can be raised inside the base.
• The hexagon air inlets are smaller than the turbine designed opening. Probably match the two diameters.
• Maybe reduce the length of the body, as there is a lot of extra space behind the 5015s.
• The front louvres are below the mounting bracket; airflow.

I told you, I am going down the rabbit hole!!!!

The gaps down the back are for the wires and no the 50 15 stay together would be handy if had a bit more room for cables if u wanted to put conectors on but I just cut and soldered the cables like I said the side fans don't seem to move unless u tip the printer up but to make it more solid a 3x6 voron magnet would be good and like said 3x6 on each side on the ends for the center one but that one dose not seem as bad for what ever reasion it prints a whole lot easier than the nethermore 

[sleepster217]

So I started building my extruder today went down the galileo2 again but went in the orbiter 2 mount and must say look a lot lighter than the normal one but hard to say I went down this way as the rapid burner dose not have a mount setup for the cw2 type got my can board as well just need a hot end and a few other odds and ends and we should be off and racing soon

[NikosSprocket]

If my latest TAP/SB/CAN setup with mini LGX will work for you, let me know, and I will put them somewhere.

[sleepster217]

19 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

If my latest TAP/SB/CAN setup with mini LGX will work for you, let me know, and I will put them somewhere.

Thankyou will let u know

[sleepster217]

Quick question what hot end woukd u all recommend for my changer as trying to justify 6 rapido 2 uhf is getting a bit hard to swallow i need something that works well and is cheap on parts will stick with the g2 extruder the other thing is it must be easy to dind mounts for with the print head 

[Penatr8tor]

A basic Rapido 2 with standard thermistor is going to be $80-$100 no matter where you buy it be it Amazon or Aliexpress, so you're looking at $600 minimum.

Aliexpress sells the Triangle Labs version of the Rapido 2 for under $40 so that might be a solution.

From my experience as an observer... I haven't heard many, if any complaints about Triangle Labs so IMO it's not too big of a risk.

Maybe order one and print with it for a while before buying 6 of them.

Triangle Lab Rapido

[sleepster217]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

A basic Rapido 2 with standard thermistor is going to be $80-$100 no matter where you buy it be it Amazon or Aliexpress, so you're looking at $600 minimum.

Aliexpress sells the Triangle Labs version of the Rapido 2 for under $40 so that might be a solution.

From my experience as an observer... I haven't heard many, if any complaints about Triangle Labs so IMO it's not too big of a risk.

Maybe order one and print with it for a while before buying 6 of them.

Triangle Lab Rapido

The guys were talking about some random ones on Discord for like 30 au vs 150 so dumb cheep but cannot find and specs on them. and from what I can see the difference in price between the triangle and the one I have was not much as u said was only going to buy one at a time but I thought I might ask in case some onenhad used one of the random 3rd party ones with some sort of success the random one was a tz v2

But apparently there is 2 if u get the wrong one it is a pain in the arse

[sleepster217]

Another question is the x end stop. cause of the shuttle not having a can boardas it is fitted to the tooth heads. I don't have a x end stop once I go to the shuttle changer .one option is go sensorless homing not a hudge fan. second option is cable chain back on a do it that way.

can any one else think of a way to get around it seems a waste to run cable chain just for 1 end stop 

 

I do have some as it came in a cable chain kit 

[sleepster217]

On 2/13/2025 at 3:41 AM, NikosSprocket said:

I do not have any data, but I think the exhaust fan, even when it's off, it's a major contributor of heat lose as it's located at the very top of the "box". I have removed the whole exhaust fan assembly and made a "blank" plate that only has the bowden tube. Foam gasket is also installed.

Which filter are you using. I am always looking for other solutions.

UPDATE: I am working on a way to also seal the bottom plate, without loosing function, especially on the 350 which started warping as it has less support from the rails.

Hey I stumbled onto something that might be of interest the doom cube mod now I have not look to much into it but liked the idea of the 2 pannels with air gap between them was not thinking of going for dumb temps like something I saw b4 just good temps for abs in winter 

[NikosSprocket]

2 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Hey I stumbled onto something that might be of interest the doom cube mod now I have not look to much into it but liked the idea of the 2 pannels with air gap between them was not thinking of going for dumb temps like something I saw b4 just good temps for abs in winter 

Interesting design, but needs a lot of work as many parts do not fit. Also, taking it apart for maintenance will be ... interesting! A slightly oversized 5-sides cube made out of thermal blanket (eg. 5mm Reflective Insulation Foam Core) and put it over the entire Voron during heating/printing will be the easiest and very affective way to keep it nice and warm.

Actually, I am in the process of upgrading my 350mm 2.4r2 with the same upgrades I just did on my 300mm V2.4.

The problem I have with the 350mm V2 is the bottom panel started warping as there is a lot more overhang from the rails and the heat started affecting it. Besides the visual issue of the warped "floor", it also a problem for escaping heat as the gaps are getting larger.

I am going to use some of the design from Deck Panel Support Clips and secure the deck for the 350. Btw I do not have this problem with the 300.

Edited February 20 by NikosSprocket

[TitusADuxass]

17 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Quick question what hot end woukd u all recommend for my changer as trying to justify 6 rapido 2 uhf is getting a bit hard to swallow i need something that works well and is cheap on parts will stick with the g2 extruder the other thing is it must be easy to dind mounts for with the print head 

You could always try some of the hotends from Aliexpress like this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006972319208.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.87.25743d01k65l6Y&algo_pvid=8fbfc3d7-6afe-42f1-87a7-22e6e509451d&algo_exp_id=8fbfc3d7-6afe-42f1-87a7-22e6e509451d-43&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"5"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!20.60!19.69!!!20.97!20.04!%402103894417400319142478787ef352!12000038898651660!sea!DE!1647220298!X&curPageLogUid=Icw9gXhkB6tX&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

@ 20 euros/bucks apiece they've got to be worth looking at. It was working fine in my v0 for a few months. I've stripped the v0 now so I can't give you any photos of it in action.

 

[TitusADuxass]

Here's what I bought (I bought 2 - like to have spares).

Rapido

NotRapido

There are quite a few similarities (heater, thermistor, etc.)

[TitusADuxass]

2 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Another question is the x end stop. cause of the shuttle not having a can boardas it is fitted to the tooth heads. I don't have a x end stop once I go to the shuttle changer .one option is go sensorless homing not a hudge fan. second option is cable chain back on a do it that way.

can any one else think of a way to get around it seems a waste to run cable chain just for 1 end stop 

I do have some as it came in a cable chain kit 

I went sensorless when I upgraded my v2.4 (and I'll do the same in my Vz330).

It does take a bit of tuning in but so far I've had no issues. There is one bonus to sensorless, once you've found the threshold and set it in the cfg.

If it then starts stalling when homing the X or Y (mine did on the X axis) you need to check that everything is mechanically sound - my X rail needed cleaning and re-oiling (I'm no longer greasing my rails - I don't like sticky balls).

[sleepster217]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

You could always try some of the hotends from Aliexpress like this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006972319208.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.87.25743d01k65l6Y&algo_pvid=8fbfc3d7-6afe-42f1-87a7-22e6e509451d&algo_exp_id=8fbfc3d7-6afe-42f1-87a7-22e6e509451d-43&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"5"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!20.60!19.69!!!20.97!20.04!%402103894417400319142478787ef352!12000038898651660!sea!DE!1647220298!X&curPageLogUid=Icw9gXhkB6tX&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

@ 20 euros/bucks apiece they've got to be worth looking at. It was working fine in my v0 for a few months. I've stripped the v0 now so I can't give you any photos of it in action.

so this one mounts on the normal rapido mounts ?