Tap changer

[claudermilk]

Must resist these rabbit holes. I don't have the time, or resources to dig into them right now. 

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Must resist these rabbit holes. I don't have the time, or resources to dig into them right now. 

No u just need to go buy more shovels so u can go down more rabbit holes lol

[NikosSprocket]

On 2/5/2025 at 7:53 AM, Penatr8tor said:

Strip with sodium hydroxide (Lye) and re-anodize and re-dye?

That's a pretty big rabbit hole to go down if you're not familiar with type 2 anodizing.

I did a bunch of anodizing back in the day (2006-7ish)

Designed and milled a number of custom parts and also stripped and re-anodized/re-dyed a bunch of parts. It's definitely doable.

I will go off topic but, what bike is that and is the Brembo and Ohlins upgrades?

[sleepster217]

[sleepster217]

So still printing out a lot of bits need to look at getting more fillament so I can make the tophat extension all printed .

Gotta stop it half way through so I can change colours so should be a interesting challange

[claudermilk]

Oh look at you with your fancypants build plate putting the fancy pattern on the first layer.  (note to self, I really should make more use of my fancypants build plate)

[Penatr8tor]

On 2/7/2025 at 12:57 PM, NikosSprocket said:

I will go off topic but, what bike is that and is the Brembo and Ohlins upgrades?

It started life as a 2005 Suzuki GSXR 1000. For the first 2 years it was pretty much stock with only a slip-on and windscreen. In '07 I was looking at getting a new bike and ran the numbers. It was going to cost me ~$7K to trade in the old one for an '07. Since the '07 was a little faster and handled a little better... how much could I do to mine for roughly the same amount. Turns out, a lot. 

The upgrades were, Full Ohlins suspension front and rear, Carrozzaria forged CNC wheels, Full float front and rear slotted disks (I think they were Braking), Brembo mono-block calipers, Spiegler braided lines, Akrapovic Ti full race exhaust, BMG Race filter and a power commander II and some other quality of life upgrades as well as some stuff I designed and cut on the Fadal mill in the machine shop at work, which BTW is where I did the anodizing. Myself and another engineer wanted to do our own anodizing, so we dug up a power supply and bought some polypropylene bins from Home Depot to use as tanks and that's pretty much the story.

It was an awesome bike. 380 lbs wet, 187 HP at the rear tire with ~98 ft/lbs torque. Nothing like stabbing the throttle in 2nd and having the front lift at 70 mph. None of that anti-lock, anti-wheelie, traction control stuff that's on today's bikes. Just RAW POWAAAAAAA!  Quick shift would have been nice tho NGL.

Here's a couple picks of the bike.

 

[Penatr8tor]

Since @NikosSprocket sent me totally off topic... I found some old anodizing pictures worth sharing.

So here's the process...

Parts here are clear anodized, I want to strip and re-anodize these parts.

Into the sodium hydroxide they go. Maybe an hour or so to strip off the old anodizing.

When they come out... Occasionally the parts turn black.

Next, I rinse with distilled water and dip it into my pot of De-Ox_De-Smut.

Another rinse and into the anodizing tank. 12v for about 45 mins - 1 hr.

Here's our setup, from L to R chiller (for hardcoat anodize), anodize tank, hot plates with dye for coloring, boiling water to set the dye. Below is the PSU and supplies on a cart.

Gold part coming out of the dye. The longer it's in the dye the darker it gets, timing is crucial.

Finished parts.

and parts installed onto forks.

Not as difficult as it appears. Mostly, you're dealing with some pretty caustic chemicals and the process isn't very heat tolerant i.e. the electrolyte needs to be at or near 70F (21c) for hardcoat around 50F (10c).

And here it is on the bike.

 

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

It started life as a 2005 Suzuki GSXR 1000. For the first 2 years it was pretty much stock with only a slip-on and windscreen. In '07 I was looking at getting a new bike and ran the numbers. It was going to cost me ~$7K to trade in the old one for an '07. Since the '07 was a little faster and handled a little better... how much could I do to mine for roughly the same amount. Turns out, a lot. 

The upgrades were, Full Ohlins suspension front and rear, Carrozzaria forged CNC wheels, Full float front and rear slotted disks (I think they were Braking), Brembo mono-block calipers, Spiegler braided lines, Akrapovic Ti full race exhaust, BMG Race filter and a power commander II and some other quality of life upgrades as well as some stuff I designed and cut on the Fadal mill in the machine shop at work, which BTW is where I did the anodizing. Myself and another engineer wanted to do our own anodizing, so we dug up a power supply and bought some polypropylene bins from Home Depot to use as tanks and that's pretty much the story.

It was an awesome bike. 380 lbs wet, 187 HP at the rear tire with ~98 ft/lbs torque. Nothing like stabbing the throttle in 2nd and having the front lift at 70 mph. None of that anti-lock, anti-wheelie, traction control stuff that's on today's bikes. Just RAW POWAAAAAAA!  Quick shift would have been nice tho NGL.

Here's a couple picks of the bike.

Nice bike I miss my bike 

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor that is quite a hefty power supply do you need one with a big amperage to work properly?

Anti-wheelie doesn't sound like much fun!

Edited February 10 by PFarm

[sleepster217]

58 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Since @NikosSprocket sent me totally off topic... I found some old anodizing pictures worth sharing.

So here's the process...

Parts here are clear anodized, I want to strip and re-anodize these parts.

Into the sodium hydroxide they go. Maybe an hour or so to strip off the old anodizing.

When they come out... Occasionally the parts turn black.

Next, I rinse with distilled water and dip it into my pot of De-Ox_De-Smut.

Another rinse and into the anodizing tank. 12v for about 45 mins - 1 hr.

Here's our setup, from L to R chiller (for hardcoat anodize), anodize tank, hot plates with dye for coloring, boiling water to set the dye. Below is the PSU and supplies on a cart.

Gold part coming out of the dye. The longer it's in the dye the darker it gets, timing is crucial.

Finished parts.

and parts installed onto forks.

Not as difficult as it appears. Mostly, you're dealing with some pretty caustic chemicals and the process isn't very heat tolerant i.e. the electrolyte needs to be at or near 70F (21c) for hardcoat around 50F (10c).

And here it is on the bike.

Nice thankyo for that looks interesting might do it one day 

[sleepster217]

4 minutes ago, PFarm said:

@Penatr8tor that is quite a hefty power supply do you need one with a big amperage to work properly?

Yeah or is that 110 volt were u are (mains supply)

[sleepster217]

3 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Oh look at you with your fancypants build plate putting the fancy pattern on the first layer.  (note to self, I really should make more use of my fancypants build plate)

Half the time I forget to use the fancy build plate lol

 

Was it you that told me about putting the extra 12+ onto the pi to stop the power issue as I did that and found a extra wire for neg as well and a few thing seemed to have stoped play silly

Edited February 10 by sleepster217

[NikosSprocket]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Since @NikosSprocket sent me totally off topic... I found some old anodizing pictures worth sharing.

So here's the process...

Parts here are clear anodized, I want to strip and re-anodize these parts.

Into the sodium hydroxide they go. Maybe an hour or so to strip off the old anodizing.

When they come out... Occasionally the parts turn black.

Next, I rinse with distilled water and dip it into my pot of De-Ox_De-Smut.

Another rinse and into the anodizing tank. 12v for about 45 mins - 1 hr.

Here's our setup, from L to R chiller (for hardcoat anodize), anodize tank, hot plates with dye for coloring, boiling water to set the dye. Below is the PSU and supplies on a cart.

Gold part coming out of the dye. The longer it's in the dye the darker it gets, timing is crucial.

Finished parts.

and parts installed onto forks.

Not as difficult as it appears. Mostly, you're dealing with some pretty caustic chemicals and the process isn't very heat tolerant i.e. the electrolyte needs to be at or near 70F (21c) for hardcoat around 50F (10c).

And here it is on the bike.

Just beautiful!

Awesome job!

These GSXR 1000/750 are extremely capable bikes. Many Sunday racers race them and bit the ....... out of Ducati's, Kramer's etc. Your bike would easily do it. 

Your anodized parts looks great! Both finish and colors; CNC milling?

I have not done any track days for a while, but the few I did with my latest moto, I really appreciated the IMUs help and especially the wheelie control. I could come out the last turn to the straight and peg the throttle and just go through the gears, no clutch action, to the end and hit the brakes..... Almost 2sec. better laps from my previous bike. Anyway, these bikes with ~190 HP are too powerful for a mere mortal, me, to fully utilize and not .... kill himself. Anyway, if it makes Rossi and Marquez faster, who am to disagree! Lol

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

@Penatr8tor that is quite a hefty power supply do you need one with a big amperage to work properly?

Depends on the size of 

1 hour ago, sleepster217 said:

Yeah or is that 110 volt were u are (mains supply)

Typically, you anodize at 12vdc fixed and as the oxide layer builds up the amperage will increase as a result of oxide layers insulating properties. Once the rate of amperage rise plateaus... you have achieved PAR, Persistent Anodic Resistance and you can no longer grow oxide crystals on the surface. This example is kind of the shoot from the hip garage guy anodizing method.

A better way is the 720 method. 

So to answer your question directly... It depends because the higher the surface area of the part... the more amperage you need. A 12-amp supply is good for parts about 5-6 in square for small stuff you could get away with 7 amp.

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, NikosSprocket said:

Just beautiful!

Awesome job!

These GSXR 1000/750 are extremely capable bikes. Many Sunday racers race them and bit the ....... out of Ducati's, Kramer's etc. Your bike would easily do it. 

Oh yeah... It did plenty of track days, including Circuit of the Americas, Road Atlanta and Barber to name a few.

[NikosSprocket]

35 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Oh yeah... It did plenty of track days, including Circuit of the Americas, Road Atlanta and Barber to name a few.

Awesome! Your GSXR was in it's element. You used a lot of packs? How was COTA with the bumps, motoGP riders complained about? Barber looks beautiful, on videos. I have done West Coast, Laguna, Sears and Thunderhill.

Cheers!

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

How was COTA with the bumps, motoGP riders complained about? Barber looks beautiful, on videos. I have done West Coast, Laguna, Sears and Thunderhill.

COTA and Barber are like playing golf at Pebble Beach and Agusta National 

Those tracks are always in top condition. We were all so happy to be riding on a "real pro circuit" that the imperfections the pro's complain about weren't even a thought, not that other tracks were bad or unsafe, those were literally spotless, and you paid for it too. Last time I rode COTA was 2014 and it was $450 per day to ride. Come to think of it... that's the same price I paid to play at Pebble Beach 

Sadly, I'm probably not going to get a chance to ride Laguna, that's a dream ride right there. Sears Point, I heard, is closed or they turned it into vineyard or sold or something or maybe it just got renamed.

[NikosSprocket]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

COTA and Barber are like playing golf at Pebble Beach and Agusta National 

Those tracks are always in top condition. We were all so happy to be riding on a "real pro circuit" that the imperfections the pro's complain about weren't even a thought, not that other tracks were bad or unsafe, those were literally spotless, and you paid for it too. Last time I rode COTA was 2014 and it was $450 per day to ride. Come to think of it... that's the same price I paid to play at Pebble Beach 

Sadly, I'm probably not going to get a chance to ride Laguna, that's a dream ride right there. Sears Point, I heard, is closed or they turned it into vineyard or sold or something or maybe it just got renamed.

That's very interesting to hear that what for the MotoGP riders considered "bumpy" it's great for everybody else and from your previous riding pictures you are very good track rider so it means a lot.

Laguna Seca eventually will lose all moto activities as the "neighbors" complain about the noise. Currently, there is a permanent 90dB sound check between turns 5 and 6. Everyone knows, and throttle off approaching turn 5 . On large club events, they even have a mobile mic for the rest of the track......

Sears Point, is doing very well, and you can find information about it using the new name "Sonoma Raceway"! We still call it Sears Point!

Btw do you print your knee-pucks now having 3D printers?

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, NikosSprocket said:

Btw do you print your knee-pucks now having 3D printers?

No, but that's not a bad idea 

We had a Dimension FDM printer (Stratasys) at work at the time, probably could have. 

Here's something interesting...

Ever wondered how hot the chamber is on a Stratasys printing ABS?

[claudermilk]

21 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Half the time I forget to use the fancy build plate lol

Was it you that told me about putting the extra 12+ onto the pi to stop the power issue as I did that and found a extra wire for neg as well and a few thing seemed to have stoped play silly

It probably was. I forget where I saw the suggestion, but it works.

This thread seems to have gone way off topic.  I'm wondering when I stumbled into a sport bike forum. 

[NikosSprocket]

22 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

No, but that's not a bad idea 

We had a Dimension FDM printer (Stratasys) at work at the time, probably could have. 

Here's something interesting...

Ever wondered how hot the chamber is on a Stratasys printing ABS?

Wow! I never used an industrial FDM printer. I don't think a Voron printer can operate in that high temperatures. What are your thoughts?

I am happy when my V2.4r2 gets to 60 deg. C for printing ASA and ABS.

Edited February 12 by NikosSprocket

[sleepster217]

13 hours ago, claudermilk said:

It probably was. I forget where I saw the suggestion, but it works.

This thread seems to have gone way off topic.  I'm wondering when I stumbled into a sport bike forum. 

Yeah I know but hey bikes printers drinking is the universal language all shed stuff

[sleepster217]

2 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

Wow! I never used an industrial FDM printer. I don't think a Voron printer can operate in that high temperatures. What are your thoughts?

I am happy when my V2.4r2 gets to 60 deg. C for printing ASA and ABS.

60 is the best I get some days in winter I struggle to even get 35

[NikosSprocket]

3 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

60 is the best I get some days in winter I struggle to even get 35

I use plexiglass for all the covers and a lot of "clips" to keep it tight to the foam tape. I tried to make it as airtight as possible by using 1/4 Inch Wide X 1/16 Inch Thick Adhesive Foam Tape between the plexiglass and the extrusions. Also, I do not vent-out, but I have a Nevermore filter installed inside. It will take about 30-50 min. to bring the internal temp. to 55+ deg. C for the 300 V2.4. I also, use a macro that puts the head in the middle of the box with extruder off and the fans (parts and Nevermore) running to circulate the air in the chamber and also get the internal temperature reading from the extruder's thermistor.