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9 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Ok thankyou looks like the holes are smaller on the board to lol 

Oh well thought I should ask in case it was like a m2 or m3 self tapper

Spoke a little too soon.

1) The 4 screws for the camera case are M2.5 x 16 socket head

2) The screw for the gopro pivot is an M5x 20 Button head and a nut

3) The 2 screws for the thumb screws are M3 x 30 socket head

and you'll need a couple o-rings, I just bought one of the $10 o-ring assortments and found one that works.

image.thumb.png.731b7b796b67bdb2e76b8b588248b18f.png

Here's a fusion & STEP file if you want to edit the design to fit your needs. 

LL_GoPro 2020 Mount-Articulated_PK v9.f3z

LL_GoPro 2020 Mount-Articulated_PK v9.step

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39 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

Thankyou yeah havr the file just need to print the mod version and make sure it all fits

You're welcome.

The camera case was downloaded from printables. IMO, it really needs a good re-design. The long screws are totally unnecessary when you could screw it together from the rear.

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19 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

You're welcome.

The camera case was downloaded from printables. IMO, it really needs a good re-design. The long screws are totally unnecessary when you could screw it together from the rear.

When I sent u the re desigh it will be coming from the back as the middle pannel has grown about 10 or 15 mm to allow room for the rear plugs 

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So this morning I got a message from mellows saying I should use the mellows fly sht36 v3 and link the 2 parts cooling fans together I have asked if it is compatible with tap as this changer is all about tap as we know but I noticed the there is a option for there eddy v3 how dose this work is this something I should look into and with eddy how dose it work is it a variation of tap or totally different I assume with tap that once u set your offsets and if u were to change a nozzle that it would compensate for that as the nozzle is the probe but will eddy or dose it have something else 

 

I do all rdy have the tap sensors now that I got with my cnc shuttle

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Started building my changer plates last night bit tricky trying to get them running smoothly so u get the satisfaction of hearing the magnets click under it's own steam but have 2 working now going to have 6 of these built up but for now will only have 2 heads for a start as going to be expensive to get em all at once pic to follow

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11 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

eddy how dose it work is it a variation of tap or totally different

Totally different. Tap works by the nozzle touching the build plate, then sending a signal to the PCB, telling Klipper what the Z-Offset is. Eddy current sensors use a magnetic fields to generate a current that Klipper interprets to determine the Z-Offset.

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38 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Totally different. Tap works by the nozzle touching the build plate, then sending a signal to the PCB, telling Klipper what the Z-Offset is. Eddy current sensors use a magnetic fields to generate a current that Klipper interprets to determine the Z-Offset.

Ok so would a build plate like this piss it off

17386221446564147534265088328151.jpg

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7 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

Ok so would a build plate like this piss it off

Yes, if those are magnets I see. You can get past this by defining exclusion zones for probing where the magnets are situated.

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50 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Yes, if those are magnets I see. You can get past this by defining exclusion zones for probing where the magnets are situated.

Or remove the magnets and stick a magnetic sheet on it. Then you're just like everyone 😁 j/k

Then you don't need to create exclusion zones

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6 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Yes, if those are magnets I see. You can get past this by defining exclusion zones for probing where the magnets are situated.

Ok fair call can u run both mainly tap to make sure the offset is consistent between all heads Inc after changing nozzles the mellows eddy the can board is like 46 au so not bad in price 

 

And yes they are magnets I love that  build plate with tap I am getting a good bed mesh out of it see pic below have not put center bed fans back in atm as I am waiting on a plug to turn up so I can fit my filter setup and u will notice the center is creating up a little on bed mesh but is minimal

20250202_213109.jpg

20250202_213113.jpg

20250202_213116.jpg

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13 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Here are some of the the stealth changer parts and the cnc carriage wish the carriage was all black or had blue but u cannot win them all

 

 

Actually, you can win them both. You can strip that questionable shuttle and redo it in any color you want. The same goes for the print, which can be printed in any color(s).

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On 2/3/2025 at 3:46 PM, sleepster217 said:

So this morning I got a message from mellows saying I should use the mellows fly sht36 v3 and link the 2 parts cooling fans together I have asked if it is compatible with tap as this changer is all about tap as we know but I noticed the there is a option for there eddy v3 how dose this work is this something I should look into and with eddy how dose it work is it a variation of tap or totally different I assume with tap that once u set your offsets and if u were to change a nozzle that it would compensate for that as the nozzle is the probe but will eddy or dose it have something else 

I do all rdy have the tap sensors now that I got with my cnc shuttle

Have you ever thought about using punctuation in your writing?  Reading that is a bitch.

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4 hours ago, BlackNet said:

Actually, you can win them both. You can strip that questionable shuttle and redo it in any color you want. The same goes for the print, which can be printed in any color(s).

The print is the colours of what i use on my printer .curious what is the problem with the cnc bit?

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14 hours ago, BlackNet said:

You can strip that questionable shuttle and redo it in any color you want.

Strip with sodium hydroxide (Lye) and re-anodize and re-dye?

That's a pretty big rabbit hole to go down if you're not familiar with type 2 anodizing.

I did a bunch of anodizing back in the day (2006-7ish)

Designed and milled a number of custom parts and also stripped and re-anodized/re-dyed a bunch of parts. It's definitely doable.

Cal-Brkt_02.jpg.f868289a78cc61e8762925f486187bef.jpg

Cal-Brkt_07.jpg.b25cfc5f022d1e5ae2df6687aed40933.jpg

FrontCaliper.jpg.d7b84a4d94a7e058367213091c69c948.jpg

 

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6 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Strip with sodium hydroxide (Lye) and re-anodize and re-dye?

That's a pretty big rabbit hole to go down if you're not familiar with type 2 anodizing.

I did a bunch of anodizing back in the day (2006-7ish)

Designed and milled a number of custom parts and also stripped and re-anodized/re-dyed a bunch of parts. It's definitely doable.

Cal-Brkt_02.jpg.f868289a78cc61e8762925f486187bef.jpg

Cal-Brkt_07.jpg.b25cfc5f022d1e5ae2df6687aed40933.jpg

FrontCaliper.jpg.d7b84a4d94a7e058367213091c69c948.jpg

Looks good but how do u do it as I don't have a powersupply that I can use. I have been thinking about getting one though for this sort of thing. but I agree is a rabbit hole a fun one at that 

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58 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

I would have thought it would leave it a bit rough mabie soda blasting ?

I also have glass beads it also anneal the aluminum to some degree.

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In my experience pretty much all of the CNC aluminum printer stuff is glass bead finish with anodize.

If anyone's interested in doing DIY anodizing...

I started with a small strip of aluminum, a power supply and a glass beaker. If memory serves... I believe you need a ~20% sulfuric acid to distilled water electrolyte solution. Then connect the positive wire (anode) to the part and the other wire goes into the solution. Then apply 12 volts. The amperage draw is based on surface area but typically 6-7 amps. Generally, I look for a uniform yellowish color on the surface and when the amperage plateaus. To get color you can use Rit clothing dye dissolved into water and heated to ~70c. A minute or 2 and you've got color. To finish up, you boil the parts in water for a few mins, that sets the dye.

The learn more and maybe do it yourself...

Head over to caswell plating

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