My first Build - Voron 2.4 R2 RevD

[NewGradRN]

I changed z position_min to -10 and the problem remain. I found another with the same problem and seems increasing the values of bed mesh min did the trick. But another issue surfaced. 

bed_mesh:Mesh extends outside of the fade rage"

never-ending error... at least I'll know more for the next one... ha ha... yes already thinking of the next build... but I want too print the parts on this one..

[NewGradRN]

Ok, I finally got it.. Completed Beacon bed mesh calibration and it saved in the config.. Continuing on with Voron Initial Startup 

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

never-ending error... at least I'll know more for the next one.

This is the way we learn and makes it easier the next time around. Keep at it, it will be all worth in the end.

 

[NewGradRN]

Thanks, SO far so good. Calibrating e-steps is the last one on the startup list. I would need to build a sturdy heavy table for this printer before my next one... It does create a lot of inertia vibration.

 

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

It does create a lot of inertia vibration

Look at this mod - I have it on all my printers - well worth it!

[Penatr8tor]

10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Look at this mod - I have it on all my printers - well worth it!

I love my Panzer Balls. 

[NewGradRN]

Oh nice. I love to do that. That Brand seems to be not available in the US. I looked everywhere, Dunlop seems the best rated one available here. They have the same diameter so I think it will work. Thanks

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I love my Panzer Balls. 

Well protected balls are they?

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

Oh nice. I love to do that. That Brand seems to be not available in the US. I looked everywhere, Dunlop seems the best rated one available here. They have the same diameter so I think it will work. Thanks

Just make sure you get the yellow Dunlop Pro (two yellow dots)

[NewGradRN]

Yes, that’s the one I ordered.. Dunlop pro Yellow two dots.. 

[NewGradRN]

Finally, it's all done. The build is completed. The fuzzball feet installed (It does work better than the OEM rubber feet).  I was side tracked for a bit building the stand for the printer. I am now tuning. I think I have to redo my Z offset with hotbed at temperature. Initial printing almost touch the plate on first layer. The initial start doc did mention calibrating with bed at temperature. Nevertheless, I am quite happy with my printer and already dreaming of the next build.

Needed Mods: 

Need to raise the top for cable clearance: seen it on some printer. Contemplating between printed and extrusion with clear panels. Hmmm.

 

[Penatr8tor]

44 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Need to raise the top for cable clearance: seen it on some printer. Contemplating between printed and extrusion with clear panels. Hmmm.

Just curious how many really tall prints that you printed where that became an issue?

If the answer is none so far or rarely... then probably not a huge priority unless you print really tall stuff.

Your printer looks awesome BTW. 

[NewGradRN]

You are right, I really have not printed anything on this printer yet except the calibration stuff from ORCA. I just thought I would try to make it where I can get the most of the height without having cable issue (For future possible height requirement ha ha).

Just installed the nozzle scrub brush and bucket.. Question: can the brush bristle touch the bed plate? I tried to eliminate it but bristles bends all over..

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, NewGradRN said:

You are right, I really have not printed anything on this printer yet except the calibration stuff from ORCA. I just thought I would try to make it where I can get the most of the height without having cable issue (For future possible height requirement ha ha).

Exactly... Why chase problems that have yet to be determined to exist? Right?

1 hour ago, NewGradRN said:

Just installed the nozzle scrub brush and bucket.. Question: can the brush bristle touch the bed plate? I tried to eliminate it but bristles bends all over..

 

I've used the nozzle brush for a couple of years. I have found it works best when the nozzle tip is just below the tips of the bristles, like 1-2mm. I also modify the Y axis number so that the nozzle tip is aligned with the center of one of the rows of bristles. If the nozzle travels in the space between two rows of bristles... it won't clean as well.

I've also opted to go the route of using a Bambu Labs style silicone brush pad. While I have yet to test it out, it's gotten a lot of good feedback from printer builders/modders.

[NewGradRN]

I was looking at those ... A1 model for Bambu. Great now I know they are good... I got the scrubber configured to the .cfg's and it's working. However the nozzle would not go pass the end of the plate (one it would hit the Y-endstop probably within 3-4mm). Would I need to move the bed forward or it's all in the configuration settings.

[NewGradRN]

On the bed mesh my min is 30 max 320, I adjusted it to 20, 330 and I got moved out of range error so I put it back

[Penatr8tor]

On 3/10/2025 at 4:03 PM, NewGradRN said:

Would I need to move the bed forward or it's all in the configuration settings.

Definitely move your bed a bit forward.

If you're using TAP...  TAP moves the nozzle ~3mm forward which is just about what you needed to move the nozzle off of the rear of the bed to use the Z endstop button but, with TAP you don't need the Z button anymore so there ya have it.

On 3/10/2025 at 4:05 PM, NewGradRN said:

On the bed mesh my min is 30 max 320, I adjusted it to 20, 330 and I got moved out of range error so I put it back

Yeah, I tried that workaround... It didn't work for me either.

Here's why... On a Voron... the X & Y endstops are at the maximum XY of the printer so, X300, Y300 for a 300, X350, Y350 for a 350 and so on and the printer will never let you go beyond that. Setting the size of the bed places the 0,0 origin forward and to the left of whatever value you set it to. For example, if you set it to 150, 150 on a 300,300 printer... 0,0 would now be in the center of the bed and the nozzle will never go beyond that point and it will never go past your endstops no matter what.

But...

If you slide the bed forward 3-5mm... You will create a strip at the front edge of the plate where you can't print, a dead zone if you like, and when you tell the printer to move to Y300... the nozzle will now overhang the back of the plate, and now you can wipe with a brush or silicone pad or whatever...

[NewGradRN]

Perfect thanks... that will be the first thing to do for tomorrow. I ordered some Bambu AI silicone scrubber, I will be going that route as well... My K1C has those and it works well also. Put in for serial request at reddit coreXY.. Hopefully I get one ha ha...  

[Penatr8tor]

10 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

Put in for serial request at reddit coreXY.. Hopefully I get one ha ha...  

You will. Easy Peasy. It takes about a week or so.

[NewGradRN]

Got the nozzle scrubber configured,  lined, and working. I did not want to disturb the gantry so I made a new Y-endstop drop-in mount that is flushed to the motor mount so I can get as much mm as I can. The actuator is mounted on the back rail slot.

 

[NewGradRN]

Received the serial number for this build yesterday.... This build I suppose is now officially over.. but tuning and mods will be never-ending ha ha.. On to the Next...

[mvdveer]

47 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Received the serial number for this build yesterday.... This build I suppose is now officially over.. but tuning and mods will be never-ending ha ha.. On to the Next...

Congratulations - well done. Now the fun starts. Mods Mods Mods and.... another Voron, and another.....

[Penatr8tor]

Good deal! Congrats!

1st one down. 

[NewGradRN]

I was going to post on “next project topic” but yes … i am already pondering and making design for my new build… I have new sets of 540 long thk HSR15 rails and blocks and will be adapting it to a taller V2 using 4040 extrusion for framing. Gantry will be standard 2020. For now I have started resizing the affected printed parts to fit 4040… Time consuming but that’s where all the fun is “making things work” Any advice on what would be the best MCU, Controller, Z motors for this project….

[PFarm]

53 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

I was going to post on “next project topic” but yes … i am already pondering and making design for my new build… I have new sets of 540 long thk HSR15 rails and blocks and will be adapting it to a taller V2 using 4040 extrusion for framing. Gantry will be standard 2020. For now I have started resizing the affected printed parts to fit 4040… Time consuming but that’s where all the fun is “making things work” Any advice on what would be the best MCU, Controller, Z motors for this project….

Congrats on your build! Nice to see like most of us in here you're looking at a second printer and some have multiple projects but no one comes close to our buddy @mvdveer he's the project master and a great source of knowledge! Building projects are addictive 

Edited March 14 by PFarm