My first Build - Voron 2.4 R2 RevD

[TitusADuxass]

13 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

It really is addictive but no problem, I am already an addict in building and designing stuff ha ha. Replaced the original Voron X-Carriage with the Annex-Engineering X-Carriage for the Beacon. I didn't want to mess again with belt tensioning so I came up with frame belt holding bracket to keep the belts in place while I remove and replace the x-carriage. Someone might have already came up with this but this is what they look like (see pictures). One for each side of the carriage.

That's a neat idea.

[Penatr8tor]

I'm finding this thread a bit late.

Really good looking build!

I can also recommend the Beacon, having run the gamut of probes and TAP. Beacon=Game changer IMO.

[claudermilk]

Great idea there!

[NewGradRN]

Took your suggestion about the Beach so here it is. One question please, can I run the cable the inside of the carriage up to the cable run like if installing the Omron? or it has to go in the back of the rail as I saw in few install I saw on the web. Thanks.

[NewGradRN]

NOT the BEACH... The Beacon... Sorry

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

can I run the cable the inside of the carriage up to the cable 

That is how I have mine installed. But nothing wrong in routing it behind the X-Rail, as long as it won't catch on anything

[mvdveer]

Here are some photos of the probe. But I am also using a CNC mount (not the printed mount) and space behind the toolhead is limited as the mount sits flush with the rail:

         

[NewGradRN]

I see, the printed mount does not have that space to slide the cable out like yours. But seeing how yours is routed (I like it nice and neat), I'll see what can be done with printed mount. But I will get the same mount you use to finish up. By the way, I see you are not using the drag chain and I read a lot about others switching to umbilical. I think I want to go that route since I'm in the process of building anyway. 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, NewGradRN said:

, I see you are not using the drag chain and I read a lot about others switching to umbilical. I think I want to go that route since I'm in the process of building anyway. 

I am using a CanBus toolhead board (sb2040 from mellow Fly) with the USB beacon probe and not using a cable chain for a few  reasons:

• It is not recommended to run the USB in a cable chain (you can if you want to).
• It eliminates some drag from the toolhead caused by the cable chain.
• There are only 4 wires (24V,GND,CanH, CanL) plus the USB for beacon.

If you are going to run an Umbilical, the exhaust fan cover will need to change, to accept the Umbilical. This is the one I am using, but then, I eliminated my exhaust fan as I hardly used it. The Nevermore filter was doing its job well enough. If you want the files, the I can upload them here if you want.

1 hour ago, NewGradRN said:

I see, the printed mount does not have that space to slide the cable out like yours.

You don't need it if you are going to route the cable through the slot for the Omron probe.

[TitusADuxass]

13 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

I see, the printed mount does not have that space to slide the cable out like yours. But seeing how yours is routed (I like it nice and neat), I'll see what can be done with printed mount. But I will get the same mount you use to finish up. By the way, I see you are not using the drag chain and I read a lot about others switching to umbilical. I think I want to go that route since I'm in the process of building anyway. 

I too have no drag chains on my v2.4, not even the horizontal one for the A/B motors.

I grew to passionately dislike them, so I removed them.

[NewGradRN]

I have decided. I will go umbilical with my build. I ordered some oversized cable relief that would accommodate the connectors for the toolhead and the usb for the beacon. Going umbilical seems easy enough but I am still looking at everything posted about it as to cabling, connectors, mounts, etc... Saw some real good video on YouTube. I am printing a remix of a remix umbilical mount I found in Thingsverse. Also remixing X-carrier by Annex Engineering. I wanted it to accommodate the Beacon USB cable and also to provide some support to the umbilical mount. I ordered 1'2 and ¾ NPT cable relief. The one pictured is for a ¾ NPT.

 

[PFarm]

Eliminating the drag chains is a wise move!

[NewGradRN]

My modification to the X-carriage did not print right, the built in support I created for the post did not print but it is clearly on the slicer plate. Hmmm.. Back to the drawing table. I'm still waiting for my Funssor CNC carriage. Enjoying thinking of remixing Voron printed parts for the mean time... Voron is really an addicting machine... 

 

[NewGradRN]

Finally got some progress in my build. The Funssor CNC carriage came in but I opted to first give my printed carriage a try. Parts I ordered to replace drag chain with umbilical also came in. Thanks to Carolina from Printables, I used and remix his/her remixed umbilical mount. Also thanks to Ken226 of teamFDM, I used his 4.3 display case design. All in all I think my build is about 80% or done (assembly wise). Programming will be the hardest part. I added a 26 AWG 2 conductor cable to the umbilical for a possible x-Endstopmounted on the toolhead (just not sure how to do it yet). I have a question please: the nighthawk board has a socket for x-y Endstop, can I use the 26 awg cable I added in the umbilical to wire a Y-Endstop then plug it in to the nighthawk together with the x-endstop with a 4 pin terminal. or it will be easier just to run the wires straight to the motherboard. Thanks.

 

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

the nighthawk board has a socket for x-y Endstop, can I use the 26 awg cable I added in the umbilical to wire a Y-Endstop then plug it in to the nighthawk together with the x-endstop with a 4 pin terminal. or it will be easier just to run the wires straight to the motherboard.

The idea ot the LDO nighthawk board is to minimise the amount of wires that run back to the board. You cannot connect the LDO socket that indicates GND,X,Y and 5V into your printer board as that will create a short circuit and you will no doubly see some magic smoke. This port on the Nighthawk board is there so you can plug your X- and Y-endstops in there without adding wires to the umbilicus. You do not need the 5V, unless your end stops are in a PCB that requires this.

I assume your X-Endstop is on the toolhead (Best place for it to be). Therefor just connect your X-endstop directly to the LDO Nighthawk. (GPIO13 and GND)

Your Y-endstop will then be either in the Left or Right back corner and wired from there directly to the printer board (Not LDO Nighthawk) . These wires can be routed with the AB -motor wires.

Here is an example of my wiring for X- and Y-Endstops:

X-Endstop on X-carriage wired into the SB2040 Canboard (yellow wires) (In your case will be the LDO Nighthawk board)

       

Y-Endstop relocated to the back right and wire routed with motor wires (green wires) Here are the files for it. (Alternative Mount 1, Mount 2)

Hope this clarifies it for you

 

[Penatr8tor]

@mvdveer Exactly what I was looking for... 

Wiring up my toolhead with beacon mount. I needed to see how the X endstop was attached to the CNC beacon mount and... VIOLA! 

[NewGradRN]

Got it, Thanks. I should be wrapping up with the hardware build pretty soon then the software... 

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, NewGradRN said:

Got it, Thanks. I should be wrapping up with the hardware build pretty soon then the software... 

Don't fret - plenty of help to get you up and running

[NewGradRN]

Finally got it all wired up. I followed all the wiring instructions posted on LDO site for LDO rev D except for the Nevermore Fan which is not included in the instruction. I plugged it in to the open fan socket in the Leviathan motherboard. I tried to look for references online but Leviathan seems new to Voron so I could not find any. I was hoping I could ask you guys if that is where it should go or somewhere else ... Thanks. For mods, I opted to use WS2812B LED strip for lighting and control it separately from raspberry so I can just turn it off or on at will. For that I use Arduino Nano for control with an on/off switch mounted on the front skirt. I also added it's own 5V PS. For the printer power, I added a 15A on/off switch in series to the one in the back. I am going to close the bottom today and put on the enclosure panels. Next will be powering it up. I already powered up the PSUs as per manual and they work fine. I also tested the front switch and it also works fine. Are there any recommendations I should do before I power up. Thanks.

[mvdveer]

16 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Are there any recommendations I should do before I power up. Thanks.

Tripple check your connections, especially power and ensure all positives are connected to positive and all and connected to ground to avoid the magic smoke. How do I know - Experiencing the magic smoke due to a inverted power connection.

[mvdveer]

20 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

except for the Nevermore Fan which is not included in the instruction. I plugged it in to the open fan socket in the Leviathan motherboard. I tried to look for references online but Leviathan seems new to Voron so I could not find any.

Have you looked at the Leviathan GitHub?

The pin connections from the manual are on page 8, 9 and 10:

And here is the nevermore config: (Remember to enter the pin from the Leviathan board in LINE 16 (Change pin: PD16 to your pin assignment)

 

## This is a simple include for the Nevermore. To use it with your printer, edit
## the pin definition in line 16 so it matches your printer.
## What you get:
## - a generic fan "Nevermore" which is adjustable in GCODE and in Mainsail/Fluidd
## - Commands in your 12864-controller to turn the fan on/off or adjust in 10%-steps
## - a Macro to turn the fan off some time after the print.
##
## Slicer integration: Add "SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=Nevermore SPEED=1" in your start-macro
## (or less fan depending on your needs, like SPEED=0.8)
## in your end print code, add "UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=filter_off DURATION=180"
## this keeps your Nevermore running for 180s after the print finishes to clean the chamber a bit more.

[fan_generic Nevermore]
## Nevermore - FAN5 on Octopus
## Adjust if you use a different board or a different terminal.
pin: PD15

[menu __main __control __nevermoreonoff]
type: command
name: Nevermore {'ON' if printer['fan_generic Nevermore'].speed > 0 else 'OFF'}
enable: {'fan_generic Nevermore' in printer}
gcode:
    TOGGLE_NEVERMORE

[menu __main __control __filterspeed]
type: input
enable: {'fan_generic Nevermore' in printer}
name: Filter %: {'%3d' % (menu.input*100)}%
input: {printer["fan_generic Nevermore"].speed}
input_min: 0
input_max: 1
input_step: 0.1
gcode:
    SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=Nevermore SPEED={menu.input}

[delayed_gcode filter_off]
gcode:
    SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=Nevermore SPEED=0

[gcode_macro TOGGLE_NEVERMORE]
gcode:
    {% if printer['fan_generic Nevermore'].speed > 0 %}
      SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=Nevermore SPEED=0
    {% else %}
      SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=Nevermore SPEED=1
    {% endif %}

 

Either copy and paste this into a seperate file nevermore.cfg and [include nevermore.cfg] in your printer.cfg file

OR

Copy and paste this into your printer.cfg file (not recommended)

[NewGradRN]

The plug configuration shown on the pin assignment page is different from the actual. It's a three pin connector with two wires connected (Pos-Neg). I just followed how the OEM fan plugs was wired,  Pos on the right and Neg on the middle. Would that be ok? Then it is plugged in on Fan #1. Just got done double checking the connections and they are where they are suppose to be. Is there anything I should look for after start up (besides the magic smoke ha ha).. thanks. I going to watch the Voron initial startup check now. Thanks again

[Penatr8tor]

Scariest part of the build... 

Powering on.

[claudermilk]

Nevermore is just a fan, so plug in to a fan header and control in the macros.

I followed Nero's suggestion for first power up. Only plug in the power supply & turn it on. It that works, then turn off, add the controller and turn on. Then add the Pi. That way you only are possibly blowing up one thing at a time.

[NewGradRN]

I surely did follow many if not all of Nero's suggestions particularly powering up ha ha. No smoke with just the PSUs. I was buttoning up the panels but came across a problem that the toolhead is hitting the front doors (when pushed forward, I have not power them up yet). Seems like the 3mm seal will give it enough clearance so I will put it vise the 1mm. I am now making a hinge to fit the increased protrusion of the door panels.  More pressing issue for me is that I tried to find info on how to attach the PFTE tube to the toolhead but could not find any. I went back to the manual several times but there really is no instruction. what holds it in place... help please... Thanks