RatRig V-Core 3.1-300 Upgrade

[Penatr8tor]

I also printed one of those thread together pyramids in Polymaker Red Silk PLA and Starlight Neptune PLA. As far as silk PLA goes the Polymaker prints pretty well. Printing sharp little tips perfectly is a challenge I'll leave for the perfectionists... Me, I'm more of a "Better is the enemy of Good Enough" kind of guy. 

 

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Looking really good IMO

The only one that really counts. And I agree - looking goooooood

[mvdveer]

8 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Me, I'm more of a "Better is the enemy of Good Enough" kind of guy

Nothing wrong with that print.  Nice  spacemouse I notice - better than my homemade one!

[Penatr8tor]

14 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Nothing wrong with that print.  Nice  spacemouse I notice - better than my homemade one!

It's definitely good enough. 

So, Yeah... The Spacemouse is a good and valuable CAD tool. I've been using them since the mid '90s. The first one was this model.

Spaceball 2003

 

Then I used a Spacemouse 300 (I still have one of these in storage LOL) I also really liked the big ball over the puck style they have today.

 

Then I used one of the small Spacemouse's but, even though it was weighted pretty well... it still slid around on the desk so...

...I ened up getting the Spacemouse Enterprise you saw in the background.

For the most part, all the customization and extra buttons are lost on me because apart from the CTRL key on the left... I don't use any of the buttons. Primarily I got it because it has a large base that doesn't move around.

I have thought about building one of the DIY spacemouses just for the fun of it.

 

 

 

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

have thought about building one of the DIY spacemouses just for the fun of it.

The were fun to build and for my limited Fusion capabilities working very well. (Orbion version)

(I have removed the background as my desk is a bit disorganised at the time I took the photo)

The red one was the first - has a single button at the back - program to take me back to "home"

The black one is an upgraded version with LED's and three buttons that can be programmed. Only using one - take me back to home!

But I'm hijacking your thread..........

 

[Penatr8tor]

13 hours ago, mvdveer said:

But I'm hijacking your thread..........

Hardly... Don't worry about it.

So, Yeah... Those look really cool. I was thinking of building another Nerf Blaster but one of these would be a cool project. 

[claudermilk]

The Orbion is a challenging build. Unfortunately, the main controller board on mine seems to have suffered some kind of failure so it doesn't boot right and the display is all borked up. Mine is now just a dust collector. There are some other similar projects that look a little better designed I might try later.

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Mine is now just a dust collector.

I have my share of dust collectors, that's for sure. I will see what's out there and hopefully learn from your experience. I might even design my own device using his electronics. Open source right? 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

Open source right?

Barely...

Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International

 

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, claudermilk said:

and the display is all borked up

Just replaced the screen in the black one - but it is a $2 screen, other than that has been working solidly

[Penatr8tor]

23 hours ago, atrushing said:

Barely...

Well... Someone puts a lot of effort into something, and it gains some notoriety, then the creator gets to thinking and... things aren't shared so much anymore.

I can relate and understand and since I won't be selling them, I'm not worried.

 

 

Too much 

[Penatr8tor]

I'm adding a mod I've had on the back burner for quite a while and finally got around to getting it installed.

I've been working on installing gas struts to the lid of the old VZ330. 

I ordered a set of (2) 10" (25.4cm) long gas struts with 10lbs of force from Amazon. And also got it bundled with (4) 90 degree 10mm ball backets.

The brackets mounted easily onto the 2020 extrusions of the printer and after my first try mounting them, I quickly ran into my first issue and also why I shelved the mod.

What happened was that the force of the gas spring pushed the hinges up and out of their sockets. The VzBot hinges are designed such that they slot into a bracket on the rear of the printer. This lets you remove the lid by just lifting it straight off the printer. Great for lifting off the lid, crappy for using gas struts. 

So, in true Penatr8tor fashion... I redesigned them to be solid. The one on the right is the old design, the left is my new design. @TitusADuxass @mvdveer here's the two hinges (left and right) VZ330_Hinge 1pc_R.stlVZ330_Hinge 1pc_L.stl The lid hinges are the VzBot ones.

 

And here's the hinge mounted.

 

Next I installed the lid and attached the two bottom ball mounts all the way to the rear of the top 2020 extrusion and then installed the top mounts near the top center 2020 extrusion on the lid. I did have to fiddle around and tune the placement so that I got the right balance. Too far forward and the lid doesn't open enough, too far back and it won't close all the way.

And here ya go... Open and closed.

 

 

[mvdveer]

Awesome Mod. Always despised the way the hinges came out at the back when you opened the lid. On my todo list

 

[TitusADuxass]

4 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

 

 

Interesting that you put your rams inside, I put mine on the outside.

I will print out your hinge mod, I could only get mine to close properly if I shimmed out the hinge.

[Penatr8tor]

8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Awesome Mod. Always despised the way the hinges came out at the back when you opened the lid. On my todo list

Even if you don't do the struts, it will at the very least eliminate the hinges coming out.

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Interesting that you put your rams inside, I put mine on the outside.

I will print out your hinge mod, I could only get mine to close properly if I shimmed out the hinge.

The inside seemed like the place to put them since there was open tee slots for mounting.

When you try them, let me know if they bind or not. I opened up the hole for the pin but it might not be enough to cover variations in builds. If that's your experience, then I can open it up a bit more for you.

[Penatr8tor]

Hahaha I just realized I put this in the wrong thread. 

Senior moment.

[TitusADuxass]

9 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Hahaha I just realized I put this in the wrong thread. 

Senior moment.

I never noticed - senior moment.

[TitusADuxass]

@Penatr8tor I printed them out.

The hole is about 0,15 mm oversize so there's enough play in hinge.

 

[Penatr8tor]

8 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

The hole is about 0,15 mm oversize so there's enough play in hinge.

Nice, Parts look good. 

 

[TitusADuxass]

18 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Nice, Parts look good. 

Thanks. Ive got the 330 really tuned in for ABS now.

Dimensionally it's pretty accurate, I printed out a mount for the Mellow Super 8 and all the holes lined up with the board.

The Orca tolerance test is perfect dimension wise. 

The top layer needs a bit of fine tuning still, I'm looking into the solutions for this.

[Penatr8tor]

@TitusADuxass Looks like you're under extruding. It's tough to get a good top layer, especially when you have a super-fast printer. My strategy has been to reduce the speed for the outer perimeter and top layer and let the printer rip for everything inside. TBH, I don't think mine is setup so that the peg will fit the zero clearance hole. I'm more like .1 which I felt was good enough for me. I mean I'd rather give my Knipex's a workout pressing in a nut than having to deal with it falling out. Regardless... I think a good strategy is to use the extrusion multiplier in the filament settings for global extrusion width (this is what will affect the fit between parts) and then I use the "Top surface flow ratio" settings (Quality tab) to dial in the cosmetic appearance of the top.

I haven't tried that tolerance test yet, in fact, I haven't done any tolerance calibration in a while. I think it's time I revisited this rabbit hole. Thanks 

[TitusADuxass]

10 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

@TitusADuxass Looks like you're under extruding. It's tough to get a good top layer, especially when you have a super-fast printer. My strategy has been to reduce the speed for the outer perimeter and top layer and let the printer rip for everything inside. TBH, I don't think mine is setup so that the peg will fit the zero clearance hole. I'm more like .1 which I felt was good enough for me. I mean I'd rather give my Knipex's a workout pressing in a nut than having to deal with it falling out. Regardless... I think a good strategy is to use the extrusion multiplier in the filament settings for global extrusion width (this is what will affect the fit between parts) and then I use the "Top surface flow ratio" settings (Quality tab) to dial in the cosmetic appearance of the top.

I haven't tried that tolerance test yet, in fact, I haven't done any tolerance calibration in a while. I think it's time I revisited this rabbit hole. Thanks 

I'll give those settings a try.