Printed parts material

[Jan_26]

22 minutes ago, chrisalbertson said:

PLA is the same way.    It is the strongest plastic you can print, until it breaks.

Or put something on it, for an extended ammount of time, like the coat hangers I printed looked like limp sausages after a month. 

 

22 hours ago, chrisalbertson said:

Very roughly speaking the resonate frequency of a clamped bar is proportionate to the square root of (Young's modulus/density)

So those people claiming the CNC parts will cause "more resonance"  are not right, it will push the frequencies upward (which is a good thing). I would suggest the stiffest and lightest material you can afford.   Carbon Fiber composite or aluminum.    Lacking that, fiber-filled ABS would work.  And then normal ABS.

Formboit is selling Vornon parts made with Pheatus ABS-GL.    This is 10% glass-filled and not expensive.     But, I think the main reaso  is that the GL filler keeps the parts from shrinking and warping hence making the parts easier to print well.

That said we don't know the cause of Voron printers resonating.   It might be the belts or it might be the 2020 frame.  I doubt the printed parts are the main cause.

The LAST thing you want is a "springy thing" in the printer, Metal would be best, after that, the most metal-like plastic you can find.

Yes, yes and yes. Agreeing with that. GF would be basically taking a chance for me, not having any experience with it. Printed CF-PETG, as mentioned. Like it, but it's not suitable here. 

I dislike the idea of the CNC aluminum parts, because, depending on the material and thickness used, it may shift the weakest link from something cheap to replace to something much more expensive. What I mean is, someone engineered a specific part to fail in case of a crash. Making that part more rigid shifts that point. And something that's meant to be protected may fail then. I'd rather have a printed part fail, than a motor or the frame. 

A stiffer printed part may be good, shifting resonance into a region, that doesn't affect print quality, but not too rigid, being still the point of failure, as intended. 

Edited May 25, 2024 by Jan_26

[MrBean]

On 5/24/2024 at 2:35 AM, Voroni said:

I printed my original 2.4R1 using eSun ABS+ (the clear spool). 3 years in I've started reprinting some of the parts in CF ASA while upgrading to R2. Observations below.

• The original eSun ABS+ parts show very little sign of wear and tear. It held up. Small indentations around the motor mounts. No doubt from heat. 
• Print your gantry parts (AB drive units) in regular ASA. You want it to flex a little. In case you crash your nozzle. The CF ASA will snap or worst bend your extrusion because it is so stiff. 
• Z drift is almost all gone using CF ASA for the Z joints, idlers, and gear boxes.
• Printed my Galileo2 using CF ASA. It's smooth as butter and eats filament like a champ. Even when my ERCF2 slips it will pull it straight through.
• Be prepared to change up your nozzle or get a really good nozzle when printing CF ASA. It's no joke. It's an abrasive material.

Voron sourcing guide should remove the eSun ABS+ recommendation. Ever since they switched over to the black spool it is completely junk. Layer adhesion sucks and I suspect they added too much PLA into the mixture because it no longer flexes like ABS should.

I did not change the brass nozzle and kept printing ABS-GF and ASA-CF. 
I printed 2 rolls and lost exactly 1mm of nozzle. Had to adjust Z height for every new print. Will change to hardened steel nozzle next time.

[Jan_26]

4 hours ago, MrBean said:

I did not change the brass nozzle and kept printing ABS-GF and ASA-CF. 
I printed 2 rolls and lost exactly 1mm of nozzle. Had to adjust Z height for every new print. Will change to hardened steel nozzle next time

Yes, hardened is definitely worth it. Got some Micro Swiss hardened nozzles for my Ender. I had to adjust temps up 10 to 15c, they don't conduct heat well. They hold up pretty good. No visible damage after more than 2 kg Cf PETG. I'm testing cheap hardened steel/copper inserted nozzles at the moment. They seem to work well for my usual materials. Nothing long term, yet. 

[JTB]

@Jan_26 - if you can find a tungsten nozzle, just get it. its expensive but it has a high degree of thermal conductivity and abrasion resistance. no temp changes required and i've printed a good bit of abrasives with zero change in performance and no noticable physical wear on the nozzle. 

[Jan_26]

On my revo.. Not available I guess. But there are MK8 tungsten nozzles. Around the price of cheap ruby ones. So maybe an alternative. 

Broke the thermistor on my ender, so no tests on the cheap CHT hardened nozzles yet. 

[chrisalbertson]

22 hours ago, Jan_26 said:

What I mean is, someone engineered a specific part to fail in case of a crash. Making that part more rigid shifts that point. And something that's meant to be protected may fail then.

You are giving the designer too much credit.  Voron and the like were designed with one very specific criterion:  It had to be buildable with hand tools.   This worked two ways (1) it was buildable with hand tools and (2) compromises were made in strength and stiffness.