VzBot 330

[Dirk]

34 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

the manual

I said it before... All Mellow manuals (and BTT and Fysetc-if they have any) are translated from Chinese with TaoBao translator. 

So you get translations like these:

 

For more: To keep laughing the next hour.

 

Sorry... I know it looks off topic, but this is what we are dealing with when we build off of their documentation. Apparently they are too cheap (like me) to hire in a professional translator to have it translated adequately.

As an example, I can give you the manual for BTT's SB2209 BUILD guide. It is the one on one tao-bao translation of the same chinese document. 

Compare ONLY the CAN bus setup with this guide, to Esotericals canbus set up guide. Esoterical explains in 2 images what these documents try to do in 20 pages.

Enough ranting.

[TitusADuxass]

@Penatr8tor 

Can you please post a photo of the door catches.

I cannot, for the life of me, work out how they go together and how they are mounted.

[Penatr8tor]

I'm working on it. Hang tight

[Penatr8tor]

@TitusADuxass I assume you're talking about the latches, but I have hinges as well.

[Penatr8tor]

@TitusADuxass You have 2 different lock pegs and 2 different latch bodies. And they create the upper and lower latches for each side and if you flip them, they will work for the other side. I suggest assembling a latch and then trying it in the extrusion to see if it in the right position. Once you get one to work the rest will become obvious.

[Penatr8tor]

In the image where I show the top two latches... they are in the locked position, and they rotate towards the middle to unlock so, left side rotates counterclockwise and the right clockwise.

I suggest assembling one without screws and trying in the frame. You can try different combo's until you get one of them working correctly, then screw it together and assemble it to the door. The rest should be easier to figure out.

[TitusADuxass]

@Penatr8tor thanks. That's just what I needed to see.

Edited June 8, 2024 by TitusADuxass

[TitusADuxass]

I had a tiffany last night.

So the modifications have begun.

I'm moving the PSUs to under the bottom panel. If I don't do this she isn't going to fit in her allocated place.

 

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I'm moving the PSUs to under the bottom panel. If I don't do this she isn't going to fit in her allocated place.

Prior to my AWD conversion, all the electronics were in the bottom panel. Just make sure you have adequate ventilation down there and all will be well.

[TitusADuxass]

4 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Prior to my AWD conversion, all the electronics were in the bottom panel. Just make sure you have adequate ventilation down there and all will be well.

I'm putting a couple of fans in the skirts (in design).

[TitusADuxass]

So moving the 2 PSUs took more work than expected.

 

Skirts with one 2040 fan, I think I'll need to develop some sort of air diverter to get the cooling air over the PSUs.

I've put a thermistor between the PSUs to monitor the temp, I should be able to find a macro that will switch the fan on if things get hot.

The main wiring needs tidying up.

Or you simply hide it.

I've had enough with building, etc. Now I just want to start working through Ellis' Tuning guide.

[TitusADuxass]

Well she's in her place.

She's a sizeable unit (just how I like en), really dwarfs my v2.4

The IKEA Lack table isn't quite deep enough.

The feet slightly over hang the table and I cannot open the top hat fully.

Things to do (besides calibration and tuning:

1. Lights - it's bloody dark in there.

2. 270 degree hinge for at least one of the doors.

3. An internal spool holder like @G_T has in his printer.

4. Got to come up with a solution for the top hat. The one I'm thinking about is probably the most complicated and expensive option. Or I could simply lift off the top hat when I need to go in there, my v2.4's top hardly ever gets removed.

 

 

 

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

my v2.4's top hardly ever gets removed.

You will find you need to open the top hat more on the VZBot, especially when changing filaments, or calibrating the Z-Offset. The build plate is just about level with the top front extrusion.

9 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

The feet slightly over hang the table

Be careful when you print at speed as the machine will move. There are actually some files in the repository to fix it to a wall for that reason.

[TitusADuxass]

10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

You will find you need to open the top hat more on the VZBot, especially when changing filaments, or calibrating the Z-Offset. The build plate is just about level with the top front extrusion.

I thought that might be the case.

Question: Do you calibrate the z-offset via the switch or via Cartographer (and just use Cartographer for the bed meshing)?

10 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Be careful when you print at speed as the machine will move. There are actually some files in the repository to fix it to a wall for that reason.

The 3 tables are screwed to the wall, I'm going draft up some Holders for the feet that will screw/glue to the table edge. I've seen the wall retainer, I don't know how long it will hold as the walls in my flat are built from cement foam bricks. They have no strength, you don't even need a drill to make a hole in them

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, TitusADuxass said:

Do you calibrate the z-offset via the switch or via Cartographer

I use Beacon Contact on the VZBot = Auto Z calibration. Prior to that used Beacon as the endstop as well as the probe, and calibrated Z-offset that way. I think it comes down to personal preference in the end.

[Penatr8tor]

3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

I use Beacon Contact on the VZBot = Auto Z calibration. Prior to that used Beacon as the endstop as well as the probe, and calibrated Z-offset that way. I think it comes down to personal preference in the end.

Same for me except without using contact for now. Will probably implement contact in the next week once I have my Voron 2.4 running again.

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

The 3 tables are screwed to the wall, I'm going draft up some Holders for the feet that will screw/glue to the table edge. I've seen the wall retainer, I don't know how long it will hold as the walls in my flat are built from cement foam bricks. They have no strength, you don't even need a drill to make a hole in them

Why not get a piece of plywood and make a larger tabletop that spans the 3 tables. It will definitely make things more rigid as well as solve your table is too small issue.

[Penatr8tor]

On 6/16/2024 at 5:49 AM, TitusADuxass said:

4. Got to come up with a solution for the top hat. The one I'm thinking about is probably the most complicated and expensive option.

I'm working on a gas spring/strut mod for the top hat. 

I've already sourced the struts and ball mounts. The ball mounts are the 90-degree angled type and install into the extrusions with a few tee nuts. I would already have them installed, but I need to lock the hinge blades into the back because the spring tension wants to lift the hinges out. In the short term I will just drill a hole and put a screw in, later I will design hinges with threaded inserts and thumbscrews so that it's secure and also easily removable.

[TitusADuxass]

15 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Why not get a piece of plywood and make a larger tabletop that spans the 3 tables. It will definitely make things more rigid as well as solve your table is too small issue.

I'm thinking of a piece of kitchen work top.

It's low cost, nice and thick (45mm), it's stablle and it's relatively cheap.

 

[mvdveer]

9 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'm working on a gas spring/strut mod for the top hat. 

Now that is something that has certainly peaked my interest. I have a "Huge" top hat on the VZBot

 

[Penatr8tor]

12 hours ago, mvdveer said:

I have a "Huge" top hat on the VZBot

Don't we all 

[TitusADuxass]

Man is this thing running me round in circles.

I can't get a good first layer down, I hoping it's the filament (very old PLA) and the PA setting which was at 0.2

Then when the print ends I get this lot:

 

And I can't for the life of me find out where the commands are coming from. I've searched through all the config files but the search returns zero.

[mvdveer]

The "timelapse_render" and "DSLR_Snapshot" are related to TIMELAPSE. The other two obviously fans. 

Potential errors - Timelapse:

• Timelapse not installed correctly.
• Timelapse not activated in moonraker.conf
• Timelapse Code not in slicer profile. 
• (See link for better explanation)

Potential errors - Fans

• Naming of the defined fans not the same as in the Macro that calls them. (PRINT_START, BEDFANS, etc)
• Fan actions not correctly defined. Does EXHAUSTFAN_ON and RSCF_OFF have the fans defined in the various macros?

Hope this helps

 

[TitusADuxass]

7 hours ago, mvdveer said:

The "timelapse_render" and "DSLR_Snapshot" are related to TIMELAPSE. The other two obviously fans. 

Potential errors - Timelapse:

• Timelapse not installed correctly.
• Timelapse not activated in moonraker.conf
• Timelapse Code not in slicer profile. 
• (See link for better explanation)

Potential errors - Fans

• Naming of the defined fans not the same as in the Macro that calls them. (PRINT_START, BEDFANS, etc)
• Fan actions not correctly defined. Does EXHAUSTFAN_ON and RSCF_OFF have the fans defined in the various macros?

Hope this helps

I commented Timelapse.cfg out in printer.cfg as I don't want it - so I'll look into the slicer side of things.

I noticed that the fans are not correctly configured (the exhaust fan comes on instead of the hot end fan). I haven't configured the RSCS yet. I'll address these first.

Then I made things worse by updating Orca to v2.1 beta.

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

so I'll look into the slicer side of things.

You'll find it under your printer settings in the Machine G-Code tab / Before layer change G-code