VzBot 330

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Then I made things worse by updating Orca to v2.1 beta.

I am running Orca 2.1 beta without any glitches since it was released . What happened?

[TitusADuxass]

3 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

I am running Orca 2.1 beta without any glitches since it was released . What happened?

Many things but I think they are related to the settings that I have in the slicer for print start and print end. I selected PLA as the filament, started the print and the bed target temp was set for 100c. I'll have a look in my v2.4 settings and see what the difference is. 

I'm also going to try another PLA, the extrusion was not consistent. It was almost like the filament was pulsing out of the nozzle.

[TitusADuxass]

12 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

You'll find it under your printer settings in the Machine G-Code tab / Before layer change G-code

That's an easy fix - I'll just delete that. I have no interest in time lapse as I don't have a camera on the printer.

[claudermilk]

I was going to suggest looking at the slicer side for the timelapse. Like @mvdveer I have been running Orca 2.1.0 beta with no issues. In fact, I am now 100% using Orca at this point. I'm not even sure how far behind my SuperSlicer install is--and right now I don't care.

[mvdveer]

13 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Many things but I think they are related to the settings that I have in the slicer for print start and print end. I selected PLA as the filament, started the print and the bed target temp was set for 100c. I'll have a look in my v2.4 settings and see what the difference is. 

 

Those would be in the filament settings of the slicer. Also make sure the G-Code in the slicer matches that of the macro

e.g. hotend in both, not extruder in one and hotend in the other OR bed or bed_temperature in both, not bed in one and not bed_temperature in the other

 

13 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

PLA as the filament, started the print and the bed target temp was set for 100c. I'll have a look in my v2.4 settings and see what the difference is. 

Those settings would be in  the filament profile in the slicer:

 

 

[TitusADuxass]

Does this look normal/okay?

It looks to me like either Z calibration is too high or Cartographer calibration is too high.

This is probably why I can't get a decent 1st layer down, I keep trying to baby step Z down but the layer doesn't  improve and then I go too far and end up with a hotend clog (now using ABS as my test filament).

[TitusADuxass]

So after I did that height mapping, I save the config and re did the height mapping.

This time I get this:

I have touched the build plate. What the hell is going on?

[atrushing]

2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I have touched the build plate. What the hell is going on?

Is there any metal in the exclusion zone of the probe?

Does your build plate use embeded magnets like a Prusa or the Mandala Roseworks bed?

Some of the large magnetic sheets have an alternating North/South pattern that might give 'interesting' mesh results.

[TitusADuxass]

9 minutes ago, atrushing said:

Is there any metal in the exclusion zone of the probe?

Does your build plate use embeded magnets like a Prusa or the Mandala Roseworks bed?

Some of the large magnetic sheets have an alternating North/South pattern that might give 'interesting' mesh results.

There's no metal in that area.

The build plate has no magnets.

What's interesting is - I moved a stack of magnets across the build plate magnet (without the PEI sheet). In the Y direction they slide smoothly across. In the X direction you can feel the magnet stick pulsing as it crosses the poles.

I'll make a video - BRB

[TitusADuxass]

Here we go.

Magnetic sheet on my v2.4 is smooth in both directions.

[atrushing]

27 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

Here we go.

Magnetic sheet on my v2.4 is smooth in both directions.

My Sidewinder/Switchwire magnet sheet is similar but it has a finer pattern. I'm afraid your magnet sheet will not be compatible with an eddy current probe system.

[TitusADuxass]

58 minutes ago, atrushing said:

My Sidewinder/Switchwire magnet sheet is similar but it has a finer pattern. I'm afraid your magnet sheet will not be compatible with an eddy current probe system.

I've already reached that conclusion.

Back to the old school technique.

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, TitusADuxass said:

Magnetic sheet on my v2.4 is smooth in both directions.

Mine is smooth in both directions with the build plate in place. It is notchy like yours without the build plate. It appears as if the build plate creates a damping effect. 

[Penatr8tor]

@TitusADuxass

Hopefully this will get you closer faster...

Here's my Orca profile for ABS VzBot_ABS_0.20mm_Pentr8tor.3mf

Here's my config files.

printer.cfgMacro.cfgSpeed.cfgStart_Stop.cfg

 

[TitusADuxass]

12 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Mine is smooth in both directions with the build plate in place. It is notchy like yours without the build plate. It appears as if the build plate creates a damping effect. 

The build plate does provide some damping, it's still noticeable

[TitusADuxass]

12 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

@TitusADuxass

Hopefully this will get you closer faster...

Here's my Orca profile for ABS VzBot_ABS_0.20mm_Pentr8tor.3mf

Here's my config files.

printer.cfg 12.09 kB · 2 downloads Macro.cfg 4.89 kB · 1 download Speed.cfg 3.63 kB · 1 download Start_Stop.cfg 2.74 kB · 1 download

Thank you very much, I shall put these to good use.

[TitusADuxass]

Now we're getting somewhere!

I have no idea what I was doing wrong.

I appear to have fixed the problem by using @Penatr8tor's ABS Orca profile and start_stop.cfg. Once again thanks for the assistance.

[Penatr8tor]

6 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I appear to have fixed the problem by using @Penatr8tor's ABS Orca profile and start_stop.cfg. Once again thanks for the assistance.

Yeah, I played around a lot to get that start_stop.cfg going with a prime blob. It could still use some work but it functions.

Glad it helped. 

[TitusADuxass]

Table widening completed (I've got to round off that right hand corner).

2 offcuts of worktop cost me 50 yoyos.

[TitusADuxass]

I was rooting through my stash this morning and found a pair of these.

They'll work but need to find a more rigid hinge for the lid.

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

They'll work but need to find a more rigid hinge for the lid.

Cool, you added some gas struts. Nice!

I'm guessing that the hinges want to lift out because the design relies on gravity to keep the lid down. A simple screw thru the bottom hinge mount and into the hinge blade should do the trick (blue arrow).

Also, If you printed the top hinge part such that the purple arrow is perpendicular to Z... it will break. It need to be printed on the side, so that the hinge pin hole is align with Z. Sucks that you need support but it increases the strength by like 4X.

[TitusADuxass]

I tried the screw through the hinge, there's still too much play.

I'm going use Orca to combine both parts and then print it as a one piece item (I'll take your advice about the print orientation).

The top hat pieces need blind jointing (a la voron), without there's a lot of stress on the perspex/acetate sheets.

[Penatr8tor]

40 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

The top hat pieces need blind jointing (a la voron), without there's a lot of stress on the perspex/acetate sheets.

Or just add some corner brackets with hammerhead tee nuts. Easy and cheap enough. That's what I ended up doing.

[TitusADuxass]

9 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Or just add some corner brackets with hammerhead tee nuts. Easy and cheap enough. That's what I ended up doing.

Good call!! 

I forgot about that option and I've got a load of them in my stash.

[TitusADuxass]

Well after chasing my tail for a number of days, I'm going to ditch the Cartographer.

It will not give me a reliable first layer. I can print one of my first layer patch tests perfectly.

Then when I try it with 5 patches (4 corners & centre) it is either way too high or way too low - too low meaning that I need a new now and the PEI sheet has some furrows in it that the nozzle plough for me.

So I now have to work out how to remove Cartographer from the printer.cfg without getting an error message.