Mini Stealth v2 Is Available

[iRia]

with what software do you assemble the different parts?

On 4/19/2024 at 9:43 AM, atrushing said:

It would collide with the top of the Boop but, since that area isn't structural, you could trim it until it fits. You would also loose the mounting point for the cable door.

 

[atrushing]

31 minutes ago, iRia said:

with what software do you assemble the different parts?

I use Blender for all of it. If the vendor supplies a .step file then I use FreeCAD to convert it to an .obj or .stl, import it to Blender and then use the snapping tools to get the part aligned with the toolhead. It was a bit tricky figuring out how the Turbiter fit around the stepper.

[iRia]

it's normal that the dragon UHF exceeds so much ?

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, iRia said:

it's normal that the dragon UHF exceeds so much ?

There are specific UHF shrouds that are 8.5mm longer for these hotends. They still fit onto the same core pieces.

Edited May 15, 2024 by atrushing

[iRia]

i use the Shroud_Orb2.0_FilSensor_Knomi2_UHF

i use this 3d model for dragon UHF https://github.com/Phaetus/Dragon-UHF/blob/main/Product Model/Dragon UHF Hotend(revised version).stp

Edited May 15, 2024 by iRia

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, iRia said:

i use the Shroud_Orb2.0_FilSensor_Knomi2_UHF

i use this 3d model for dragon UHF https://github.com/Phaetus/Dragon-UHF/blob/main/Product Model/Dragon UHF Hotend(revised version).stp

Sorry, I see the mixup now. The Dragon UHF is the same size as the Rapido UHF so it uses the Rapido core instead of the Dragon core.

[iRia]

oh ok thx

[iRia]

hello why not use m3x20 (or short with shorter spring) on orbiter 2 to have a smaller and more discreet hole?

Edited May 16, 2024 by iRia

[atrushing]

15 hours ago, iRia said:

hello why not use m3x20 (or short with shorter spring) on orbiter 2 to have a smaller and more discreet hole?

This is quite an interesting idea. The main difficulty is that I would need to maintain so many more shroud versions if it was a standard option.

Instead, I have made three filler pieces that will need to be aligned to the shroud in the slicer in order to cover the standard opening. The first one maintains the filament release lever and the third one requires installing the tension screw after the toolhead is fully installed on the printer. These pieces should be compatible with any of the Orbiter 2.0 shrouds. Other extruders would need new pieces if there is enough interest in this.

Orbiter2.0_Discreet_Idler_screw_cover_2.stl Orbiter2.0_Discreet_Idler_screw_cover_3.stl Orbiter2.0_Discreet_Idler_screw_cover_1.stl

[iRia]

Would it be possible to have the CAD( orbiter and dragon uhf) files to work on a release lever similar to this one

[atrushing]

5 hours ago, iRia said:

Would it be possible to have the CAD( orbiter and dragon uhf) files to work on a release lever similar to this one

The best I can do is a .blend file with the Orbiter and the Dragon UHF. The file is to large to upload here but it is in the Orbiter 2.0 folder on my GitHub.

[G_T]

I'm afraid I haven't checked into it enough myself, so I apologize up front. What would it take to mount this onto Tap to use on Trident / 2.4? I like the idea of a lighter more compact print head.

Regardless, nice work!

Gerald

[atrushing]

4 hours ago, G_T said:

I'm afraid I haven't checked into it enough myself, so I apologize up front. What would it take to mount this onto Tap to use on Trident / 2.4? I like the idea of a lighter more compact print head.

Regardless, nice work!

Gerald

Here is a post where I detail the problems with trying to install the Mini Stealth on the TAP carriage. Long story short, I can't get them to play nicely together. Instead, I developed the Mini Stealth DAB which is a flexure based nozzle probing x-carriage that weighs less than 20g assembled. I am also working on a version that will fit onto a Switchwire and I am trying to add Beacon3D mounting to allow a hybrid probing/mesh operation.

[iRia]

for boop how to put the heat inserts here ?

[atrushing]

5 hours ago, iRia said:

for boop how to put the heat inserts here ?

Normally I just use a conical tip on my TS-100 and gently push the inserts into place.

 I tried a different method I have heard of and it worked great with the Boop geometry. It requires a long M3 screw (40-50mm) inserted from the back. You thread on the insert and, with it above the plastic part, heat the insert with a butane lighter for a good few seconds. When the insert is nice and hot, use the M3x50 screw to pull it into place. It is also easy to see if the insert is sitting square in the recess while you are pulling.

 

[Dylwad]

Great work!! very impressive catalog of options you have made. 

Trying to get it on an Ender 3 S1 pro but with a regular ender 3 x carriage, are we supposed to use UHF on the enders? Printed the LGX lite/Bambu X1 version and the bottom wheel touches the bed before the nozzle. 

Also, any adapters for the BTT eddy in the works? 

 

Thanks!!

Edited June 5, 2024 by Dylwad

[atrushing]

8 hours ago, Dylwad said:

Trying to get it on an Ender 3 S1 pro but with a regular ender 3 x carriage, are we supposed to use UHF on the enders? Printed the LGX lite/Bambu X1 version and the bottom wheel touches the bed before the nozzle. 

Thanks for letting me know about this issue. I can keep the current version for the UHF hotends but here is a new adapter plate (on the right) that lowers the Mini Stealth by 4mm. If this fits your Ender 3 well enough, then I can push the new .stl to GitHub.

Unfortunately, moving the toolhead lower leads to a collision with the stepper motor for most of the extruder options. The only one that I'm sure will still work is the Sherpa Mini. If you have a Dremel (or a file and some patience) and are brave enough you could re-work the steel Ender 3 plate. I still want to make a fully printed MGN9/MGN12 x-carriage for the Ender 3 but I don't know how quick I can get to it.

I have also started the BTT Eddy bracket so I'll try to post that soon.

Ender_3_Mini_Stealth_Mount.stl

[Dylwad]

Thank you! I'll try them out this evening 

[atrushing]

17 hours ago, Dylwad said:

Also, any adapters for the BTT eddy in the works?

This is about as simple as I can make it! Its a symmetrical 4mm plate that uses M2.5x6 flathead screws to secure to the shroud and M3x20 BHCS to attach the BTT Eddy probe. The center of the probe has a 42mm offset in the X axis and is 6mm in front of the nozzle for the Y axis.

Side_Mount_V0_BTT_Eddy_bracket.stl

[Dylwad]

I think it will work just fine. I had to file the carriage plate for motor clearance which isn't a big deal. I'm using a printed adapter for the K1 extruder to make it fit an LGX lite footprint, I'll have to modify it to clear the adapter plate but that's no big deal. I've had to modify it quite a bit already, and I'm  adding ebb36 mounting ears to it too.

Thanks again, you saved me a bunch of time. I downloaded blender last night to see how hard it would be to modify your files and I have to say, I'm impressed with your blender skills. I'm above novice with fusion and blender made zero sense to me. 

An Mgn12h X rail setup would be awesome!

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, Dylwad said:

I think it will work just fine. I had to file the carriage plate for motor clearance which isn't a big deal. I'm using a printed adapter for the K1 extruder to make it fit an LGX lite footprint, I'll have to modify it to clear the adapter plate but that's no big deal. I've had to modify it quite a bit already, and I'm  adding ebb36 mounting ears to it too.

Great feedback, thanks! I found a model of the K1 extruder so I will see if I can work up a dedicated adapter for it.

1 hour ago, Dylwad said:

I downloaded blender last night to see how hard it would be to modify your files and I have to say, I'm impressed with your blender skills. I'm above novice with fusion and blender made zero sense to me. 

An Mgn12h X rail setup would be awesome!

Blender is a very different workflow and there are a few plugins that I use to make certain operations more simple. One of the main things I like about Blender is that my working file is 350mb and has every single Mini Stealth variation in it but still loads in less than one second! The learning curve is steep but there are tons of videos that detail almost anything you might want to do in Blender. Also, you don't need to learn too much before you are able to get very useful results.

[claudermilk]

6 hours ago, atrushing said:

Blender is a very different workflow and there are a few plugins that I use to make certain operations more simple. 

That's an understatement. I'm struggling to wrap my head around Blender for a different project. What plugins do you use & what do they accomplish?

[atrushing]

3 hours ago, claudermilk said:

That's an understatement. I'm struggling to wrap my head around Blender for a different project. What plugins do you use & what do they accomplish?

Here is a list of all of the addons that I have installed. I think some of them come pre-enabled and almost all of them are already built-in and just need to be turned on. I have highlighted the ones that I use the most.

MACHIN3tools (one of the few paid addons I use [$5] - very powerful set of tools to speed up modeling tasks)
Extra Objects (more object types to add in model)
Import-Export: STL format (for obvious reasons)
Edit Mesh Tools (more tools for modifying the mesh)
Loop Tools (tools for modifying and cleaning up rows of verticies in Edit Mode)
Bool Tool (makes boolean operations easier and quicker)
3D Print Toolbox (helps validate if the mesh is fit for 3D printing)

A major part of getting proficient in Blender is learning the keyboard shortcuts. Also, when you find that you regularly need to use the same command, you can right click on almost any command and add it to your Quick Favorites. This builds a popup list that is accessed by pressing [Q] and the list is unique to each workspace.

Edited June 6, 2024 by atrushing

[Dylwad]

12 hours ago, atrushing said:

Great feedback, thanks! I found a model of the K1 extruder so I will see if I can work up a dedicated adapter for it.

If your going to spend any time on the K1 extruder I would maybe just modify Henlors excellent filament runout sensor mod https://www.printables.com/model/651002-k1-extruder-filament-runout-sensor to have sherpa mini or LGX lite mounting pads and bottom. 

Thanks for the info on Blender too. I'll have to give it an honest try. I'm very proficient with Turbocad for 2D stuff mainly because I know the keyboard shortcuts

[atrushing]

On 6/6/2024 at 3:49 PM, claudermilk said:

That's an understatement. I'm struggling to wrap my head around Blender for a different project. What plugins do you use & what do they accomplish?

A quick followup on Blender:

It is very helpful to have a keyboard with a ten key (num-pad) as it is used for quickly changing views. [1] for front, [3] for right side, [7] for top and [5] to change between orthographic and perspective. [Ctrl] + [1/3/7] will give you the opposite view and [9] will give you the back view of whatever is current.

The [1] [2] [3] above [Q] [W] [E] are used in Edit Mode for changing between Vertex, Edge and Face select modes.

Below is a screenshot of my Quick Favorites for working in Edit Mode. The four with check-boxes are to toggle visibility of different features to keep the display less cluttered until I need the tools.

The Cursor is very important to keep track of and use when adding new geometry. The Cursor to Selected will take an average of the selected vertices which is useful for adding something at the center of a face or feature.

The Create Orientation creates a new user coordinate system based on selected geometry so that you can move things along any axis using existing features (just don't forget to change back to Global when you are finished). The Local orientation attempts to infer the coordinate system based on what is selected but I prefer to manage the orientation more strictly.

The Vertex at Intersection command is from the tinyCAD addon which I didn't mention in the earlier post. It helps with constructing geometry beyond existing features.

Bonus points for anyone who can guess what the above part will be for .