Mini Stealth v2 Is Available

[atrushing]

I have worked up a new x-frame set for mounting the Mini Stealth on an Ender 3 with a front facing MGN12C linear rail/carriage. This design is derived from a Switchwire x-carriage. For now, the files and additional details are available under the comments of my Sherpa Mini variant. If anyone can help me validate this design, I can then push the files to GitHub.

I am working on applying this design to a front mounted MGN9H linear carriage and then I will design x-carriages for MGN9H and MGN12C top mounted linear rail setups. I will add them here as they are finished.

[xiaoyao]

Anyone use the 'MiniStealth_Core_LgxLite_Bambu.stl'? How do I fix this hot end? put nut on one side, and use some screw on the hotend top to fix it? not look very strong connection

 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, xiaoyao said:

Anyone use the 'MiniStealth_Core_LgxLite_Bambu.stl'? How do I fix this hot end? put nut on one side, and use some screw on the hotend top to fix it? not look very strong connection

You should be able to fit two screws to secure the hotend the the core piece unless that is a different version of the Bambu hotend that I haven't seen yet.

 

You might need to rotate the hotend by 180 degrees.

Edited June 18, 2024 by atrushing

[xiaoyao]

  

 

 

 

I'm used the third party vender bambu hotend, we call it TX 2.0.  Or MiniSB use X1C hotend to support this kind.

It use left and right to make sure the hotend in right place.

[xiaoyao]

Thanks for your work and support.

Other question about the 'extruder'. I'm use this HGX Lite extruder, that alot cheap than the Orbiter_2.0. 

 

I try to use the LGX lite model file, but have some question:

 

1. Could you help to check this HGX Lite specs, and give suggest model file I should use?

 

2. When use with UmbilicalPCB, 'LGX_Lite_Motor_Bridge_UmbilicalPCB_Mount.stl' and 'LGX_Lite_UmbilicalPCB_Mount.stl', is the parts order like this? 

 

3. There are some gap space between the 'Motor_Bridge_UmbilicalPCB_Mount.stl' and 'LGX_Lite_UmbilicalPCB_Mount.stl'

Is that because different 10T motor size?

 

 

example when install motor with HGX Lite 

 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, xiaoyao said:

I try to use the LGX lite model file, but have some question:

1. Could you help to check this HGX Lite specs, and give suggest model file I should use?

2. When use with UmbilicalPCB, 'LGX_Lite_Motor_Bridge_UmbilicalPCB_Mount.stl' and 'LGX_Lite_UmbilicalPCB_Mount.stl', is the parts order like this?

The motor bridge piece needs to be turned around. But the main problem is that the motor on the HGX extruder is mounted horizontal while the LGX is at an angle.

You could try the same umbilical PCB support pieces but from the Sherpa Mini folder.

I found a 3D model of the HGX Lite extruder so I will look into how it fits in the Mini Stealth. I might need to make some new pieces. When I line up the filament path between the HGX extruder and the Mini Stealth core, the mounting screws no longer match.

You could also look into the Hummingbird extruder as it uses the HGX gears and I already have all of the parts ready for it on GitHub.

[iRia]

Hi, I'm trying to bring in the rainbow led but it's too wide

[atrushing]

6 hours ago, iRia said:

Hi, I'm trying to bring in the rainbow led but it's too wide

That looks larger than the official Rainbow Barf LED. If you can measure the size of the PCB, I can look at how if I could make a shroud that woud fit your LED.

 

[Xplaner]

atrushing , I've just printed your Mini Stealthburner core and cropped shroud to fit an orbiter v2 and dragonfly BMO in Polymaker ABS. I wanted to let you know that everything is sub-mm perfect . It is a simple , yet so well thought out design . Even the magnets are a firm ,stay in place , snug fit and makes it easy to separate core from shroud . A huge Thank You seems barely adequate for your encyclopaedic contribution 

[iRia]

13 hours ago, atrushing said:

That looks larger than the official Rainbow Barf LED. If you can measure the size of the PCB, I can look at how if I could make a shroud that woud fit your LED.

 

[atrushing]

On 6/25/2024 at 1:51 PM, iRia said:

The measurement that I have for the Rainbow Barf LED is 11mm across the flats. Here is a new shroud and LED-carrier with the pocket opened up an extra 0.35mm for each side with the following options.

 

• UFH hotend
• Orbiter 2.0
• Filament Sensor
• Knomi 2
• Rainbow Barf clone 11.7mm hex across the flats
• Boop (no probe mounting)

The corners get too close to the magnet pockets for a standard 0.4mm wall so I made a small gap so it should print cleaner.

 

[a]_iRia_MiniStealth_Shroud_Orb2.0_FilSensor_Knomi2_UHF.stl [a]_iRia_MiniStealth_Rainbow_Barf_clone_Carrier.stl

[Dylwad]

Finally got things together enough to try printing. Fantastic results for very little tuning. Ended up just going with a sherpa mini and Ebb36. Also hacked the shroud and btt eddy mount together in cad and printed with supports. The Eddy looks huge on the Mini_Stealth. 

I need to modify the cable shroud for the standoff mounting I went with on the ebb36 to get clearance between the plugs and gantry uprights (I inverted one of the m5 v slot wheel bolts to get more x travel for the probe) Also needs cut out for the ender 3 mounting plate. 

Thanks again for the time and effort you have put in to this little gem of a toolhead!

[Dylwad]

It's tight but it works!

 

[atrushing]

My Vorpal 180 printer has been out of service for the last few months but I finally got around to upgrading it to the Mini Stealth v2. I decided to test the cooling of the new shroud with a modified version of the Overhang Test (40° - 80°) by zumili. I manually set all printing speeds to 100mm/sec with 12K acceleration. The part cooling was set to a minimum of 95%. This is with WinnSinn 4010 blowers installed. I have no idea why I didn't install the GDSTIME or HoneyBadger blowers that I have in my stash..

The first test in GeeTech ABS+:

The next test in Aingtong PLA with the the printer door off and the top up:

This is with a new Dragon HF hotend so I still need to tune down the stringing. The back tower had the best underside surface finish and the left side had the worst.

Overhang_Angle_Quad_40-80.stl

Edited July 13, 2024 by atrushing

[atrushing]

I have finally designed a filament release lever for the Sherpa Mini extruder. It uses an M3x8 flathead screw as the pivot. Now I just need to work up some new shrouds.

Filament_Release_Lever_Sherpa_Mini_.stl Housing_Core_ATR_.stl Idler_Arm_ATR_.stl

[adkmechetech]

Is there a decorative (or plain) cover for the top hole if we aren't using the Knomi?  I'm printing the LGX Lite shroud now. 

 

[atrushing]

11 hours ago, adkmechetech said:

Is there a decorative (or plain) cover for the top hole if we aren't using the Knomi?  I'm printing the LGX Lite shroud now. 

I have added both of the hole covers in the repo. They are designed to be secured with a few drops of CA glue.

[atrushing]

@Penatr8tor since your RatRig V-Minion is a little more stock than mine is, could you check if the gantry has room to go down 8-10mm before bottoming out? I want to make the Mini Stealth x-carriage that I used on my V-Minion available on the repository.

The Sherpa Mini fits fine while keeping the nozzle at the same position as a stock V-Minion but the stepper motors on the rest of the extruders sit much lower and create a collision.

Also, does the V-Core use the same style of x-carriage?

[Penatr8tor]

4 hours ago, atrushing said:

@Penatr8tor since your RatRig V-Minion is a little more stock than mine is, could you check if the gantry has room to go down 8-10mm before bottoming out? I want to make the Mini Stealth x-carriage that I used on my V-Minion available on the repository.

The Sherpa Mini fits fine while keeping the nozzle at the same position as a stock V-Minion but the stepper motors on the rest of the extruders sit much lower and create a collision.

Also, does the V-Core use the same style of x-carriage?

V-Minion: With the nozzle on the build plate, I measure ~30mm from the bed to the bottom of the X extrusion.

V-Core: Both printers use the same toolhead, so the distance is the same for both.

Hope this is what you needed.

[adkmechetech]

11 hours ago, atrushing said:

I have added both of the hole covers in the repo. They are designed to be secured with a few drops of CA glue.

Hey, thanks for posting these.  I tried printing the decorative version but it appears there is a problem with the model.  It looks like the hub and all the fins are not merged with the main body. When slicing (I printed it and it failed because I wasn't paying attention) it is showing overhang layers.  I'm not sure of the workflow in blender but in Solidworks it would be an extrude feature that didn't reach the surface.   I was able to work around it for now by checking "make overhangs printable". 

[atrushing]

4 hours ago, adkmechetech said:

Hey, thanks for posting these.  I tried printing the decorative version but it appears there is a problem with the model.  It looks like the hub and all the fins are not merged with the main body. When slicing (I printed it and it failed because I wasn't paying attention) it is showing overhang layers.  I'm not sure of the workflow in blender but in Solidworks it would be an extrude feature that didn't reach the surface.   I was able to work around it for now by checking "make overhangs printable". 

Thanks for catching this. I fixed it and pushed the new one to GitHub.

In Blender I keep the two parts as separate bodies so that I can use the Export Selected feature to determine which version of .stl I want to create. I have the fan features as a child of the plain back so that it always moves with its parent. I guess I just got careless at some time while modifying the meshes and created a gap between the parts.

[atrushing]

11 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

V-Minion: With the nozzle on the build plate, I measure ~30mm from the bed to the bottom of the X extrusion.

V-Core: Both printers use the same toolhead, so the distance is the same for both.

Hope this is what you needed.

Thanks. What I was trying to ask (slightly awkwardly) was if I could move the whole toolhead up by 10mm without the gantry running out of Z travel before the nozzle touches the buildplate? This would allow me to avoid the stepper motor collision issues with the non Sherpa Mini extruders.

Of course, with a UHF hotend it would almost be a perfect setup since they are 8.5mm longer than the standard hotends.

[Penatr8tor]

4 hours ago, atrushing said:

Thanks. What I was trying to ask (slightly awkwardly) was if I could move the whole toolhead up by 10mm without the gantry running out of Z travel before the nozzle touches the buildplate? This would allow me to avoid the stepper motor collision issues with the non Sherpa Mini extruders.

So, after doing a little investigating... I found that the Z axis slide on the V-Minion has ~6mm of travel left before it bottoms out. Below is a drawing and the distance I got from the CAD file.

V-Minion Z.pdf

V-Minion Z.dwg

[atrushing]

31 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

So, after doing a little investigating... I found that the Z axis slide on the V-Minion has ~6mm of travel left before it bottoms out. Below is a drawing and the distance I got from the CAD file.

I forgot for a minute that you were the resident CAD guru!

That overlap is less than 1mm! But an inch may as well be a mile.. I will try to make it work while only moving the nozzle up by 5mm.

[Penatr8tor]

12 minutes ago, atrushing said:

I forgot for a minute that you were the resident CAD guru!

That overlap is less than 1mm! But an inch may as well be a mile.. I will try to make it work while only moving the nozzle up by 5mm.

Yup, it doesn't take much interference to bring the whole assembly to a halt.

I was going to recommend 5mm but decided not to be that guy.