Milo V1.5 CNC Bench Mill - Water Cooled - Casa Enclosure

[PFarm]

Aluminum stock came in today. I'm waiting on a 12VDC power supply replacement the one that ran Casa Elec.-bay fans, the water pump and the rad fans gave out.

Edited March 1 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

Now all we need is chips. 

What ya gonna make?

"The Angled Jaw"?

[PFarm]

9 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Now all we need is chips. 

What ya gonna make?

"The Angled Jaw"?

Yes, I will make the angled jaw first the fixture plate securing tabs to get a bit of setup practice.

The face jaws as well to secure the angled jaw to the vice. Need to order more 25x50x100 stock.

Edited March 1 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

3 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Yes, I will make the angled jaw for the fixture plate securing tabs first to get a bit of setup practice.

Yeah, kinda figured you would. I would do the same... My first parts will more than likely be additional fixturing, brackets, mounts, etc.

Have you tried cutting anything at all, like a piece of wood or something soft?

[PFarm]

4 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Have you tried cutting anything at all, like a piece of wood or something soft?

Not yet spindle water-cooled so need to wait for the replacement 12v power supply. Will most likely do some wood first before aluminum.

Edited March 1 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Cool SWM vice parts.

Edited March 1 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

On 3/1/2025 at 2:08 PM, PFarm said:

Cool SWM vice parts.

I assume you're using Fusion 360 for toolpaths?!

 

[PFarm]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

I assume you're using Fusion 360 for toolpaths?!

Yes, I will be.

[Penatr8tor]

29 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Yes, I will be.

I have yet to do a tool path in Fusion.

Just like you... I will be. 

[PFarm]

Printed this tramming jig and purchased digital dial indicators from Temu which came with these instrument cases and a spare battery.

Tramming_Jig.stl

Digital Dial Indicattor

Edited March 6 by PFarm

[PFarm]

I received more aluminum stock and planned on making the double vice, the base for the double vice, and the sliding base for the single vice. However, I had ordered the wrong vice from SWM (1/4" instead of M6), so I have the top vices.

Today tramming the mill, installing the new 12V power supply, securing the wiring in the Casa, installing plexi in the doors, and completing the air lines and mist system.

@Penatr8tor Hey Pete any update on your Milo?

Edited March 19 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

30 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Hey Pete any update on you Milo?

No, None sadly. 

I just finished up my Voron refresh and a fix for my RatRig toolhead. Then I have a 2002 Yamaha Fz1 that I have to rebuild the carbs on and sell and then... It's Milo time. I'm guessing I'll get started end of May.

In the meantime, I'll have to live vicariously thru your build.

[PFarm]

Found this handy tool to calibrate your steps. Use an M4 nut and screw to secure the caliper to the tool.

Steps Calibration Tool

Edited Friday at 02:02 AM by PFarm

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor @mvdveer I'd suggest getting these leadscrew nuts. These ensure the the grub screw seat on the thread of the leadscrew. The conventional lock sleeve has the potential of seating in between (the void) the leadscrew threads

@mvdveer Installing these on the X/Y is not too bad on an assembled mill. Pull the handwheels off, remove the TR8 lock sleeve, and unbolt the stepper motor from the frame. This allows the axis to move freely and gives you access to the rear TR8 lock sleeve.

TR8 Leadscrew Locknut

 

 

Edited Friday at 01:40 PM by PFarm

[PFarm]

 

I've been building this project for a long time, and a few followers and I have been anxious to see the mill make some chips! I didn't want to start cutting without having an Y-axis bellow solution to keep chips out of the leadscrew area. I found two types of bellows from two different Discord members, one for the front bellows and the other for the rear one.

The front bellows are 3D printed parts a nice feature is it fits over the existing Y axis bearing block and the Y end stop switch is now covers to eliminate any chips reaching it. You’ll also need to tweak the endstop lever bend it toward the Z tower about 1/8”.

Front Bellows

 

Still working on the mounting of the rear bellows.

I've also installed 24V LEDs in the Mill compartment and electronic bay.

 

 

 

[PFarm]

 

Built the rear bellows from this Discord member Discord Bellows Link . I've uploaded the modified STL and Step files

Bellow2 - with holes v1.stepBellow2 v1.stepBellow2 - with holes v1.stlBellow2 v1.stl

 

Make the side bellows so it fits between the V of the top bellow.

Shown is the slit of the side below.

The side bellows installed.

I'm looking at modifying the Y-axis transition bracket to fit the rear bellows 

The bad news in order to secure the rear bellows  to the X/Y carrier is the X axis assembly needs to be removed. You need to remove the toolsetter, remove the hand wheel, remove the leadscrew lock sleeve, disconnect the X stepper wiring, remove the X stepper motor and loosen the grub screw of the stepper to TR8 bushing, pull the stepper of the TR8 lead screw, remove x axis end stop, remove screws from the X axis drag chain end link. Remove the X axis bearing block fromt he extrusion, pull the X axis extrusion assembly of the linear bearings, install linear bearing dummy rails.

 

 

Edited Monday at 07:32 PM by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

@PFarm I checked out the bellows thread. It looks like a really cool mod.

Definitely something I'm going to add to mine.

The clear blue MXD U-Fold Sherline bellows are very interesting. I think this is something that could potentially be adapted to the Milo. What I like about it is that it's all one piece.

 

[PFarm]

I removed the X-axis to measure what I need to extend the cable transition bracket so the bellows fit against it.

Transition bracket extended comparison.

Extended the Y cable chain mount by 20mm so it lines up with the extended cable transition bracket.

Glad I took it apart, the X anti-backlash block had a crack in it.

I'd printed the LDO X Anti-Backlash Nut. When they added more material, they moved the M3 heat insert hole from top and bottom to side to side and re-tweaked the hole size, which prevents the heat insert from bulging the plastic into the hole where the TR8 nut goes.

X Axis Anti Backlash Nut x1_LDO.stl

 

Edited 7 hours ago by PFarm