Milo V1.5 CNC Bench Mill - Water Cooled - Casa Enclosure

[PFarm]

Update: With the holes enlarged, I got the spindle trammed side to side .-001mm and front to back .-003 by shimming the top bracket with 0.1mm shims.

Edited January 16 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Aluminum mounting brackets for the spindle came in today! Marked out the hole locations for the angle bracket and aligned with the center of the Z plate.

 

Here are the dimensions for the holes and these are the brackets I purchased 80mm Brackets

Mounted the brackets and re-secured the spindle. These brackets have a nice tight fitment clearance with no front securement plate tightened, the spindle won't slip downwards under it's own weight! Loctite everything. Don't mind the mess of wires behind the mill that next on the to do list.

 

One thing I wanted by mounting it this way as opposed to using the rear mounting holes of the brackets was the ability to easily tram the spindle. I highly recommend these bracket will worth the $50 spent.

I'd like your opinion regarding the angle brackets I only had 4 on hand would you install 4 more to secure the bracket?

 

Edited January 25 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

15 minutes ago, PFarm said:

'd like your opinion regarding the angle brackets I only had 4 on hand would you install 4 more to secure the bracket?

Can't hurt - will only add to the stability.

[Penatr8tor]

22 hours ago, PFarm said:

I'd like your opinion regarding the angle brackets I only had 4 on hand would you install 4 more to secure the bracket?

Those corner brackets are cheap enough and the added weight is too little to matter that much so...

more rigid is more betterer. 

[PFarm]

@mvdveer @Penatr8tor Thanks, guys I found 4 more brackets I had stashed away. I need to re-mount the spindle and tram it again.

Edited January 24 by PFarm

[PFarm]

With the VFD mounted inside the electronic compartment, the door wouldn't close (hitting the knob).

Order an extension cable kit for the VFD display on Amazon. Extension Cable Kit

 

 

Re-modeled the Front Mid-Cover to accept the remote display.

The VFD display is fitted and the door now closes properly 

Edited January 28 by PFarm

[claudermilk]

Hiss! Old-school ribbon cables! I hated those things building PCs back in the day.

[PFarm]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

Hiss! Old-school ribbon cables! I hated those things building PCs back in the day.

Can the wire be separated easily if you cut them carefully to get them started then pull them apart to separate them? I would rather have them in a bundle instead of the flat cable.

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

if you cut them carefully to get them started then pull them apart to separate them?

You could but I wouldn't. Too much can go wrong. When these wired are split apart, there is a risk of exposing the bare wire. How do I know?  Tried it. Also it will be a timely exercise. I personally would just make peace with the ribbon cable. Sometimes "old school" is OK

 

[PFarm]

Having tapped my fixture plate for M6 fasteners SMW has modelled plugs, you can 3D print them with a slot or hex head. This will help keep the chips out of the holes.

https://www.printables.com/model/776413-smw-fixture-plate-plugs-14-and-m6

Edited February 12 by PFarm

[PlstcNwud]

21 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Having tapped my fixture plate for M6 fasteners SMW has modelled plugs, you can 3D print them with a slot or hex head. This will help keep the chips out of the holes.

https://www.printables.com/model/776413-smw-fixture-plate-plugs-14-and-m6

Did you do this because most fixturing seems to start at M6? Did you do it by hand or with mill?

[PFarm]

21 minutes ago, PlstcNwud said:

Did you do this because most fixturing seems to start at M6? Did you do it by hand or with mill?

I purchased the fixture plate from DFH_FM USA which was drilled but not tapped. Since I'd purchased the SMW Hobby Vise which use M6 fasteners I drilled, tapped and chamfered the hole to receive M6s. Drill and chamfered with a drill pressed but tapped by hand. I preferred doing it by hand so it was started straight and could feel when the tap needed to be backed off long process but worth it IMO.

LDO kits come with an M5 hole fixture plate.

Chamfer bit in the drill press.

Edited February 12 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Received my low-pressure mist kit today.

Edited February 17 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

On 2/12/2025 at 9:10 AM, PFarm said:

Having tapped my fixture plate for M6 fasteners SMW has modelled plugs, you can 3D print them with a slot or hex head. This will help keep the chips out of the holes.

https://www.printables.com/model/776413-smw-fixture-plate-plugs-14-and-m6

Nice, those will come in handy for mine.

Can you post a link of the vice you bought? I figure I'll need one eventually.

Also, if there's anything you bought that you feel you should have gotten something else... I could potentially benefit from your experience... that would be awesome.

[Penatr8tor]

33 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Received my coolant mist kit today.

What are you going to do about chips falling into the Y axis. Is there a printable cover or something out there?

[PFarm]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Nice, those will come in handy for mine.

Can you post a link of the vice you bought? I figure I'll need one eventually.

Also, if there's anything you bought that you feel you should have gotten something else... I could potentially benefit from your experience... that would be awesome.

• FYI the LDO fixture plate is tapped for M5 fasteners, and the SWM hobby vice comes with M6 fasteners. People use M5 fasteners with a counter sink washer or drill and tap the first and last row of the fixture plate to M6.
• The reversible jaws are sold separately.
• I'd also recommend getting 2x M6 pins they're used to align the fixed side of the vice.

I'd highly recommend the BTT Scylla motherboard it is well worth the $80.00. Do you plan to build the Casa enclosure? Can't think of anything I regret buying. Jake the designer of the Milo is assembling a V1.6 upgrade mill which uses a lot of the existing parts. He has a better way of assembling the X-axis extrusion.  I'll post some photos of how to do that here to show you how. 

Edited February 17 by PFarm

[PFarm]

 

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

What are you going to do about chips falling into the Y axis. Is there a printable cover or something out there?

You can order custom bellows on Aliexpress I need to figure out how I want to secure them.  I found these on Discord the one with no center attachment goes on the end-stop side. They can be glued inside every second/third bellows.

Edited February 17 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

• FYI the LDO fixture plate is tapped for M5 fasteners, and the SWM hobby vice comes with M6 fasteners. People use M5 fasteners with a counter sink washer or drill and tap the first and last row of the fixture plate to M6.
• The reversible jaws are sold separately.
• I'd also recommend getting 2x M6 pins they're used to align the fixed side of the vice.

I'd highly recommend the BTT Scylla motherboard it is well worth the $80.00. Do you plan to build the Casa enclosure? Can't think of anything I regret buying. Jake the designer of the Milo is assembling a V1.6 upgrade mill which uses a lot of the existing parts. He has a better way of assembling the X-axis extrusion.  Post some photos of how to do that here to show you how. 

Cook thanks,

When I ordered the Milo kit from Fabreeko, I also ordered the Honey Badger V2 Fixture plate. It already has 1/4" precision holes for pins alternating with M6 threaded holes designed specifically for the Saunders Vice so I can check that off the list. Still need to order the vice tho.

The Scylla mobo looks like a worthwhile upgrade, more powerful processor and better drivers. What about the kit power supply? Is it enough to handle the Scylla? Mine is the 24v unit from LDO, looks like a Meanwell.

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

You can order custom bellows on Aliexpress I need to figure out how I want to secure them.  I found these on Discord the one with no center attachment goes on the end-stop side. They can be glued inside every second/third bellows.

OK... That looks do-able. How many bellows did you order?

Or is do you only need one ea. for the front and rear of the Y.

X shouldn't need one because everything is underneath.

Z might benefit.

What was your strategy?

[PFarm]

3 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Cook thanks,

When I ordered the Milo kit from Fabreeko, I also ordered the Honey Badger V2 Fixture plate. It already has 1/4" precision holes for pins alternating with M6 threaded holes designed specifically for the Saunders Vice so I can check that off the list. Still need to order the vice tho.

The Scylla mobo looks like a worthwhile upgrade, more powerful processor and better drivers. What about the kit power supply? Is it enough to handle the Scylla? Mine is the 24v unit from LDO, looks like a Meanwell.

Nice I like to Honey Badger fixture plate nice upgrade! The LDO power supply can power the motherboard and stepper with no issue. The Scylla was designed to be able to power the steppers with 48V which will have more torque. I also eliminate the need for the LDO expansion board.. Almost of the connections are octo-coupled and like the terminal screw instead of crimp connections.

[PFarm]

5 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

OK... That looks do-able. How many bellows did you order?

Or is do you only need one ea. for the front and rear of the Y.

X shouldn't need one because everything is underneath.

Z might benefit.

What was your strategy?

Haven't ordered them yet still look how to incorporate the end-stop with the bellows. I'll keep you in the loop when I've got everything figured out.

[PFarm]

Update X Extrusion Assembly:

@Penatr8tor When assembling the two 2040 to the C channel mark the 2040 and C channel so they line up at the same locations (I use a cheap set of calipers). On a drill press drill thru 2040, on the C channel only drill into the first void. Hole should be big enough for the M5 to fit in it.

Line up the M5 T-nut with the hole

Screw a M5 -10 in the T-nut till it screws into the hole until it can no longer slide

Slide the 2040 over the M5 screws and tighten thru the hole in the 2040, Jake recommends 4 x M5 per side.

Use the 123 block to line up the surfaces flush. You can eliminate the printed angle parts shown below.

Edited February 18 by PFarm

[PFarm]

I purchased this airline kit from Princess Auto (Harbour Freight in the USA). It has 1/2" OD line fittings shut-off valves and fitting blocks, 1/4" brass fitting.

[PFarm]

Here is a link to some steps files that a Discord member kaddeh｜M113 is willing to share his designs with others.

He's modelled this fixture for both the SWM and Inception vices.

This is the fixed side soft jaws for the SWM vice that this fixture would mount to with the two fasteners you see in the above photo.

Edited February 20 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

18 hours ago, PFarm said:

Here is a link to some steps files that a Discord member kaddeh｜M113 is willing to share his designs with others.

That'll probably be one of my 1st projects to cut on the Milo. Nice find!