My first build / 3d printer

[sleepster217]

Heat plate fitted and a and b motors fitted now just need to run the x y belts and the cables when I get them getting closer but still have a way to go yet

[sleepster217]

So I learnt from a mistake and if any one else has one tell me if I went wrong so I got a belt tension gauge yes from ally express and on it instructions it says pull thing out (tyre tread depth gauge zero and place belt on pins and release 9mm belts should be 7.9mm on gauge and 6 mm is 8.9mm so I did that moving gantry after each adjustment to make sure the reading was true and do the mesurment a couple of times well I ended up snapping a 9mm belt 

 

On a better note the beefy rollers are strong lol

 

At least I got extra belts in case I had some sort of trouble any way this is how we learn hey

[sleepster217]

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, sleepster217 said:

...well I ended up snapping a 9mm belt 

That's a first.

After building 5 printers and a couple rebuilds I can say with confidence... You can easily get lost in the minutia. As far as belt tension goes... I tried most of the tensioning tricks or techniques like plucking the belt like a guitar string and matching the pitch to you name it. This printable tension gauge worked the best out of the things I've tried. Also, you will get a better perspective on belt tension once you see them in motion. You want the least amount tension as possible without slipping and slapping. Slipping is obvious, slapping (I made that term up LOL) is when you see the belt vibrating when the print head changes direction. 

TBH and back to the whole minutia thing... you'd really have to screw up the belt tension for your printer to not print decently due to belt tension. Same thing goes for things like the print bed. I remember people getting all bent out of shape because they probed their bed and it was off by 0.1mm. I built a little RatRig V-Minion 180x180x180 bed slinger, and the bed has zero adjustment and is tilted ~.25mm in the X and with a bed mesh... it makes beautiful prints and beautiful 1st layers.

So, in closing, it looks like you're really close to finishing your build and it looks really nice BTW. Get your belts tensioned by feel and get your printer printing. Then get into the little piddly stuff. You probably already said that to yourself, but I just have to put my Old Man 2 cents in. 

[sleepster217]

7 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

That's a first.

After building 5 printers and a couple rebuilds I can say with confidence... You can easily get lost in the minutia. As far as belt tension goes... I tried most of the tensioning tricks or techniques like plucking the belt like a guitar string and matching the pitch to you name it. This printable tension gauge worked the best out of the things I've tried. Also, you will get a better perspective on belt tension once you see them in motion. You want the least amount tension as possible without slipping and slapping. Slipping is obvious, slapping (I made that term up LOL) is when you see the belt vibrating when the print head changes direction. 

TBH and back to the whole minutia thing... you'd really have to screw up the belt tension for your printer to not print decently due to belt tension. Same thing goes for things like the print bed. I remember people getting all bent out of shape because they probed their bed and it was off by 0.1mm. I built a little RatRig V-Minion 180x180x180 bed slinger, and the bed has zero adjustment and is tilted ~.25mm in the X and with a bed mesh... it makes beautiful prints and beautiful 1st layers.

So, in closing, it looks like you're really close to finishing your build and it looks really nice BTW. Get your belts tensioned by feel and get your printer printing. Then get into the little piddly stuff. You probably already said that to yourself, but I just have to put my Old Man 2 cents in. 

Yeah thankyou for that I did notice the x y belts if one was tighter than the other the gantry will not hit the end square like it use to so I ended up going by that 

[sleepster217]

Hi I have a btt tmc 2209 v 1.3 and cannot find the config and any jumper info for these I can find the 1.2 are they the same or any information that I need to config my octupuss pro

[mvdveer]

22 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

Hi I have a btt tmc 2209 v 1.3 and cannot find the config and any jumper info for these I can find the 1.2 are they the same or any information that I need to config my octupuss pro

There should not be any hardware configuration needed for these. They are stepper drivers and the configuration is done in the printer.cfg file under [tmc2209 stepperX/Y/Z/Extruder]. As example:

[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PC4
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0

The uart_pin is the board pin. In your case the Octopus board. (In the below table designated as CS)

Just make sure your jumpers for the steppers are set to UART mode.

 

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

There should not be any hardware configuration needed for these. They are stepper drivers and the configuration is done in the printer.cfg file under [tmc2209 stepperX/Y/Z/Extruder]. As example:

[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PC4
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0

The uart_pin is the board pin. In your case the Octopus board. (In the below table designated as CS)

Just make sure your jumpers for the steppers are set to UART mode.

Thankyou

[sleepster217]

Here is what I have done so far

[mvdveer]

Looking good - the drivers are set for UART. As per the Voron manual, you need to remove the 5V USB power selector jumper (yellow) and the row of diagnostic jumpers (orange)

  

Also remember to select Fan Voltage - yours are all on 24V which is standard and ok if the fans are all 24V. The part cooling fan and hotend fan will run off your canbus board so no need to worry about those.

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Looking good - the drivers are set for UART. As per the Voron manual, you need to remove the 5V USB power selector jumper (yellow) and the row of diagnostic jumpers (orange)

  

Also remember to select Fan Voltage - yours are all on 24V which is standard and ok if the fans are all 24V. The part cooling fan and hotend fan will run off your canbus board so no need to worry about those.

All my fans are 24v

[sleepster217]

Just now, sleepster217 said:

All my fans are 24v

I will fix the yellow and orange box too

[sleepster217]

I have been getting confused as to were the 120r can terminate jumper goes I have it on the ebb2209 board do I need any jumpers set on the btt u2c v2.1 as instructions manual on the board are vauge

[sleepster217]

[sleepster217]

Just now, sleepster217 said:

Will be using the black 4 pin can cable and the 2 usb ports like the ideal design says

[sleepster217]

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

I have been getting confused as to were the 120r can terminate jumper goes

See this wiki page on the BTT SB2209

[sleepster217]

Sorry I ment the u2c as the manual points them out but not went or if to use em

[mvdveer]

54 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

Sorry I ment the u2c as the manual points them out but not went or if to use em

As per the last page of the manual:

[sleepster217]

3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

As per the last page of the manual:

I appreciate all the help and I hope I am not just being stupid with this as I don't feel like smoking up one of my boards 

[sleepster217]

5 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

I appreciate all the help and I hope I am not just being stupid with this as I don't feel like smoking up one of my boards 

I assume it is this jumper than needs to be set right need the black can out and the one that says 120r as there is 3 120r in different locations

[sleepster217]

[Dirk]

I do not want to get boring.. but when it concerns CAN, I would always check out the CAN Bible for non-chinese speaking, Esotericals.

Check out this page. it shows EXACTLY what you want to know.

 

[sleepster217]

4 hours ago, Dirk said:

I do not want to get boring.. but when it concerns CAN, I would always check out the CAN Bible for non-chinese speaking, Esotericals.

Check out this page. it shows EXACTLY what you want to know.

Thankyou I like the look of this guide pi should be here today or tomorrow 

[sleepster217]

So the pi 5 4gb turned up with a pi 5 psu I was surprised as to how small it was like damm is the size of a deck of cards