My first build / 3d printer

[sleepster217]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Agree with @claudermilk. For ABS, I run 240c at the nozzle because I run a Diamondback which has better thermal conductivity. 110c bed. Same soak time. Bear in mind that a 2.4 without a nevermore might need 40+ minutes soak. 30% fan at 3rd layer.

I generally print a 30mm cube with no top and infill to confirm the printer is dialed in, takes about 15 minutes to print. The cube is a throw away that you can rip apart with pliers to test layer adhesion.

@sleepster217 Did you get you TAP working?

Yeah tap is working most of the time seams that if it dose not soak long enough as @mvdveer has said it gets its knickers in a twist but just ask it to re print on klipper and off it goes I tent to manually heat bed when I turn it on and most of the time by the time I get the stl sliced is rdy enough and it has a heat soak loaded in I mvdveer cause it needs a chamber temp was 40 I dropped it to 37 I am now printing out the first part of a Nevermore v6 

How many do we need of them or is just one and a couple of ells fan mounts to the sides enough 

[sleepster217]

On the nethermore v6 under bed should I run straight or 90deg 

 

And btw hotend inam running is a rapido2 uhf with a .4

[Penatr8tor]

I would say 90 degree is the one you want. It points the air straight up and not directly at the inside of the doors.

The Rapido 2 UHF is a good hotend. If you're using the black steel hardened nozzle you might need to print at 5-10 degrees hotter or not, depends on the filament you're using. The diamond tip of the Diamondbacks thermal conductivity is literally off the chart compared to brass with steel being less than both.

[sleepster217]

51 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I would say 90 degree is the one you want. It points the air straight up and not directly at the inside of the doors.

The Rapido 2 UHF is a good hotend. If you're using the black steel hardened nozzle you might need to print at 5-10 degrees hotter or not, depends on the filament you're using. The diamond tip of the Diamondbacks thermal conductivity is literally off the chart compared to brass with steel being less than both.

Yeah using the standard hard steel ones (black) v6 style

[sleepster217]

How long is the cartridge for the nethermore as the fan mouth I just printed (not great ) but will work for now looks good outside but bit rough in a few places inside dose not look that big just printing the lid and the cable thing will print the cartridge later today

[Penatr8tor]

1 hour ago, sleepster217 said:

How long is the cartridge for the nethermore as the fan mouth I just printed (not great ) but will work for now looks good outside but bit rough in a few places inside dose not look that big just printing the lid and the cable thing will print the cartridge later today

The nevermore is tricky to print, at least it was for me. I had some failures and lifted corners before I got it good enough to assemble and use. You determine where, front to back you position the unit. Basically, you want the front vent to clear your build plate and blow hot air from the bottom of the bed heater up into the enclosure volume without interfering with the doors.

[sleepster217]

Can any one recommend a good camera to put on the voron and a location that works well just so I can take a look from time to time as some of the prints I am looking at are longer than I thought and don't want a expensive disaster 

And software would be handy if not just klipper thankyou in advance

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Can any one recommend a good camera to put on the voron and a location that works well just so I can take a look from time to time as some of the prints I am looking at are longer than I thought and don't want a expensive disaster 

And software would be handy if not just klipper thankyou in advance

I have switched from Logitech cameras which did not like heated chambers at all to these Arducams. I get mine from Core Electronics  - excellent in all ways. Mounted to the front extrusion above the doors.

Here is the link to the camera casing and mounts from @Penatr8tor

Here are the links to the actual files:

Case Back Cover

Camera Back Cover

Camera Front Cover

2020 mount

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

And software would be handy if not just klipper thankyou in advance

Don't need additional software as you can access mainsail either through the web browser or Orca slicer. For remote access, I use Octoeverywhere.

[sleepster217]

3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

I have switched from Logitech cameras which did not like heated chambers at all to these Arducams. I get mine from Core Electronics  - excellent in all ways. Mounted to the front extrusion above the doors.

Here is the link to the camera casing and mounts from @Penatr8tor

Here are the links to the actual files:

Case Back Cover 63.17 kB · 4 downloads

Camera Back Cover 522.93 kB · 3 downloads

Camera Front Cover 406.04 kB · 4 downloads

2020 mount 843.25 kB · 3 downloads

It says usb but I don't see the usb port on it ir do u have to make the usb for it

[mvdveer]

25 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

It says usb but I don't see the usb port on it ir do u have to make the usb for it

It comes with a USB cable. Just run it to one of the ports on the Raspberry pi. It is plug and play

[sleepster217]

23 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

It comes with a USB cable. Just run it to one of the ports on the Raspberry pi. It is plug and play

Ok too easy thankyou

[Penatr8tor]

@sleepster217

This is the Voron 2.4 mount I created for the ArduCAM.

 

[sleepster217]

8 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

@sleepster217

This is the Voron 2.4 mount I created for the ArduCAM.

Looks very nice going to order one friday

[sleepster217]

So i just did the input shaping and got this result 

 

is it good or bad

[sleepster217]

On 9/16/2024 at 9:55 PM, claudermilk said:

My settings for ABS is 250 nozzle, 110 bed, about 30% part fan. I also heat soak until the chamber is about 30 before starting a print.

These last few posts remind me, since I have to reload Klipper from scratch I have an opportunity to implement Klippain.

Is there a way to work out how much more or less u need for part fan 

[sleepster217]

Chamber temps are coming up no the filter is not installed yet just sitting there as I cannot get the filter to print right looking at getting the re mix got some lights installed now so I can see as well got one more light to install will have 4  camera is on its way shoukd have that next week hopefully will start re doing the abs config next week as it is printing like crap on larger prints

Edited September 20, 2024 by sleepster217

[sleepster217]

On 9/18/2024 at 4:08 AM, Penatr8tor said:

@sleepster217

This is the Voron 2.4 mount I created for the ArduCAM.

Just found out looks Like I have a slightly different model camera and I am going to print a adaptor for the back had to drill a hole in the front of it will send a pic once I make the adaptor I will send you the file as might be worth u keeping 

 

Going to make a 10mm spacer to fit on the back of the blue square to allow clearance for the cables and have a hole at on end or slot to allow cable to come out then the normal backing plate will fit on 

Camera is a ArduCAM  uc-a53 

Rev.e

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Just found out looks Like I have a slightly different model camera and I am going to print a adaptor for the back had to drill a hole in the front of it will send a pic once I make the adaptor I will send you the file as might be worth u keeping 

Yeah, your camera has the connectors 90 degrees to the one I was using.

Here's the Fusion CAD file if you want to try making some changes.

LL_GoPro 2020 Mount-Articulated_PK v9.f3z

[sleepster217]

42 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Yeah, your camera has the connectors 90 degrees to the one I was using.

Here's the Fusion CAD file if you want to try making some changes.

LL_GoPro 2020 Mount-Articulated_PK v9.f3z 1.66 MB · 0 downloads

Thankyou so much for that will help a lot

[sleepster217]

Any one using a umbilical support for the stelthburner that will suit a galleleo 2 as the one I am using keeps hitting the rear cable chain I tried printing some others bit they seem far to small to support the cable the way I think it should be the one I am using is strong enough but sicks out far to far behind the rear of the motor

[sleepster217]

Um help so i disturbed my can cable yesterday to try and i n stall the new umbilical support that i did not end up using as did not fit any way the pt1000 i have on my hotend the plug is a bit dicky and gave me a error any way had some new ones on order any they turned up today pt1000 pro so I installed one and still getting this error any ideas

[Penatr8tor]

Either bad thermistor or not connected.

[sleepster217]

4 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Either bad thermistor or not connected.

Brand new probe will have a look tonight is possible I plugged it in the wrong port ....

[sleepster217]

So found the problem old thermister had broken wire and the adaptor to go from sb2209 to the plug they use on the thermister was broken new thermister is fine and fixed the adaptor as stripping that cotton wrapped wite is a pain in the ....

 

But is working now did a calabration now for the new thermister happy now