My first build / 3d printer

[sleepster217]

28 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Try changing 

{% if params.BED|int > 90 %}

to

{% if target_bed > 90 %}

I mean, that's why you defined the variable, right? I always reference the variables, not the direct parameters.

I will do that after work tomorrow thankyou

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Try changing 

{% if params.BED|int > 90 %}

to

{% if target_bed > 90 %}

I mean, that's why you defined the variable, right? I always reference the variables, not the direct parameters.

Thanks will give it a go. The problem is that I hardly ever print PLA, thus that did not show up as an issue until @sleepster217 pointed it out.

[sleepster217]

4 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Thanks will give it a go. The problem is that I hardly ever print PLA, thus that did not show up as an issue until @sleepster217 pointed it out.

I think the problem might be me as it is 10 min is that set for just the bed warming up ir is that a proper heat soak for the gantry 

[sleepster217]

I have a different issue just come up my printer sometimes cancels the print before it starts once I saw something about to many probes but not sure what it is on about 

 

Wiring issue ? Or a software one ie update and can did not but some times it works but at a bit of a loss

also get a error on one of my ends stops invalid pin but not often and dose not seam to stop the print like the other error  I know which end stop is getting the invalid pin I think that one might be a dodgy micro switch to which I have spares unless some one can shed light is the back one for the main gantry 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, sleepster217 said:

also get a error on one of my ends stops invalid pin but not often

That would be a bad crimp or loose wire

1 hour ago, sleepster217 said:

printer sometimes cancels the print before it starts

Often happens when you probe whilst the bed is heating (due to thermal expansion). Always a good idea to heat the bed to the temperature you require, wait for it to stabilise, then probe

[sleepster217]

5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

That would be a bad crimp or loose wire

Often happens when you probe whilst the bed is heating (due to thermal expansion). Always a good idea to heat the bed to the temperature you require, wait for it to stabilise, then probe

The cancel print is something to do with the probe and bed has been heating for the 10 min as per the start up macro 

[sleepster217]

this is  the print start macro as it is now

 

is still doing the 10 min soak but it think that is a stabalise thing  ?  but the thing is still heating the hotend to 220 deg then the printer says no to hot cools to 150 tap dose its thing and it ramps back up and away it goes

print start macro.txt

[sleepster217]

as for the qgl it did it again and said out of tolarance but dam it was tapping a lot like 8 or 9 times i take it that is how u set it up purge is working well now one nice big purge line and the prints start off well just trying to get the starting hight right now

 

[PFarm]

2 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

but the thing is still heating the hotend to 220 deg then the printer says no to hot cools to 150 tap dose its thing and it ramps back up and away it goes

What slicer are you using? In the printer setting under custom G-Code enter the following. This should solve the hot end heating to 220C, cool to 150C, and back up to 220C.

; M190 S0
; M109 S0 ; uncomment to remove set&wait temp gcode added automatically after this start gcode
print_start EXTRUDER={first_layer_temperature[initial_extruder] + extruder_temperature_offset[initial_extruder]} BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature] CHAMBER=[chamber_temperature]

[sleepster217]

15 hours ago, PFarm said:

What slicer are you using? In the printer setting under custom G-Code enter the following. This should solve the hot end heating to 220C, cool to 150C, and back up to 220C.

; M190 S0
; M109 S0 ; uncomment to remove set&wait temp gcode added automatically after this start gcode
print_start EXTRUDER={first_layer_temperature[initial_extruder] + extruder_temperature_offset[initial_extruder]} BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature] CHAMBER=[chamber_temperature]

Using orca and got the code in the tab same as @mvdveer said to put in and cannot that all of you enough this has and still is a big learning curve

 

Will give them.a try tonight

[sleepster217]

On 9/12/2024 at 11:34 AM, mvdveer said:

That would be a bad crimp or loose wire

Often happens when you probe whilst the bed is heating (due to thermal expansion). Always a good idea to heat the bed to the temperature you require, wait for it to stabilise, then probe

Ok will keep an eye on that too 

[Penatr8tor]

On 9/12/2024 at 6:57 AM, sleepster217 said:

as for the qgl it did it again and said out of tolarance but dam it was tapping a lot like 8 or 9 times i take it that is how u set it up

So TAP out of tolerance can be a few things... 

Something could be or has worked itself loose. Jiggle toolhead to see.

The tab that protrudes into the optical sensor isn't tall enough. I had the same issue and that was my problem.

The tolerance in your printer.cfg is too tight/small. Increase it a little.

 

 

[sleepster217]

8 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

So TAP out of tolerance can be a few things... 

Something could be or has worked itself loose. Jiggle toolhead to see.

The tab that protrudes into the optical sensor isn't tall enough. I had the same issue and that was my problem.

The tolerance in your printer.cfg is too tight/small. Increase it a little.

Ok will look at them thankyou

[sleepster217]

any one know how to setup adxl on the btt sb2209 rp2040 as i have no clue were to start

[mvdveer]

39 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

any one know how to setup adxl on the btt sb2209 rp2040 as i have no clue were to start

Add this to your printer.cfg file and change the probe points to the middle of your bed. (The below example is for a 350mm build\ for the SB2209 rp2040:

[adxl345]
cs_pin: EBBCan:gpio1
spi_software_sclk_pin: EBBCan:gpio2
spi_software_mosi_pin: EBBCan:gpio0
spi_software_miso_pin: EBBCan:gpio3
axes_map: z,-y,x

[resonance_tester]
probe_points: 175, 175, 20
accel_chip: adxl345

See this document for installation of the required software:

The run the command:

ACCELEROMETER_QUERY

You should see something like this if it is configured:

Recv: // adxl345 values (x, y, z): 470.719200, 941.438400, 9728.196800

Run the input shaper commands for X and Y.

Then enter the values into your printer.cfg file. Replace ... with the frequency and input shaper type

[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: ...
shaper_type_x: ...
shaper_freq_y: ...
shaper_type_y: ...

Or you can automate the process by installing  Klippain Shake n Tune. 

[sleepster217]

7 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Add this to your printer.cfg file and change the probe points to the middle of your bed. (The below example is for a 350mm build\ for the SB2209 rp2040:

[adxl345]
cs_pin: EBBCan:gpio1
spi_software_sclk_pin: EBBCan:gpio2
spi_software_mosi_pin: EBBCan:gpio0
spi_software_miso_pin: EBBCan:gpio3
axes_map: z,-y,x

[resonance_tester]
probe_points: 175, 175, 20
accel_chip: adxl345

See this document for installation of the required software:

The run the command:

ACCELEROMETER_QUERY

You should see something like this if it is configured:

Recv: // adxl345 values (x, y, z): 470.719200, 941.438400, 9728.196800

Run the input shaper commands for X and Y.

Then enter the values into your printer.cfg file. Replace ... with the frequency and input shaper type

[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: ...
shaper_type_x: ...
shaper_freq_y: ...
shaper_type_y: ...

Or you can automate the process by installing  Klippain Shake n Tune. 

i am unsure how to config with the doc as it is canbus i did try klippain shake n tune but dose not seem to be right as the values are off x,y,z 9178.553681,-222.061783,-306.438199

klipper gets pissed with them

[sleepster217]

Here is a screen shot of the info I was ment to put in for input shaper

 

Edited September 14, 2024 by sleepster217

[mvdveer]

The error says "unsupported shaper type" and that is why.

You posted the resonances for the Y-axis thus your input shaper should look like this for Y:

[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: 39.2
shaper_type_x: mzv
shaper_freq_y: ...
shaper_type_y: ...

Get the values for X and do the same

[sleepster217]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

The error says "unsupported shaper type" and that is why.

You posted the resonances for the Y-axis thus your input shaper should look like this for Y:

[input_shaper]
shaper_freq_x: 39.2
shaper_type_x: mzv
shaper_freq_y: ...
shaper_type_y: ...

Get the values for X and do the same

Thankyou feeling bit silly atm did not read the bit about what shaper each was just the bottom one

[sleepster217]

just updated shaper and doing my first lot of abs calabrations will reset klipper once the prints are done then i can print out my first lot of changes to my printer as there was a few things driving me nuts one beint the tooth head can supports hitting the cable chains and will be printing the ellis fan mods for under the bed as it takes forever to warm the chamber up

 

is there also a way to slow down when the exhaust fan starts up as that might be one of the chamber temp problems

input shaper.txt

Edited September 15, 2024 by sleepster217

[sleepster217]

So fun begins did the start of a abs print see below and we'll let's say it did not work so well first layer sticks very well hot end at 265 bed at 106 it was tearing is self apart getting it off the bed and very poor layer adhesion 

 

Part fan too high ? Is a gld 50 10 8500 rpm 24v got it for the pla 

[claudermilk]

My settings for ABS is 250 nozzle, 110 bed, about 30% part fan. I also heat soak until the chamber is about 30 before starting a print.

These last few posts remind me, since I have to reload Klipper from scratch I have an opportunity to implement Klippain.

[sleepster217]

41 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

My settings for ABS is 250 nozzle, 110 bed, about 30% part fan. I also heat soak until the chamber is about 30 before starting a print.

These last few posts remind me, since I have to reload Klipper from scratch I have an opportunity to implement Klippain.

Sounds good so far I am running trialing hot end at 280 bed still 105 part fan off chamber temp is struggling at 35 now was 37 b4 but is slowly dropping I just threw a blanket over sides top and little over the front electronics fans still have heaps of room and temp is coming up a bit and print is looking ok so far will re do calabrations again as they are not right as the profile did not appear to be working and was cooling far to fast and getting poor prints but I will have a look at your settings tomorrow

[sleepster217]

Is 13 apparently outside and the shed will be no better

[Penatr8tor]

Agree with @claudermilk. For ABS, I run 240c at the nozzle because I run a Diamondback which has better thermal conductivity. 110c bed. Same soak time. Bear in mind that a 2.4 without a nevermore might need 40+ minutes soak. 30% fan at 3rd layer.

I generally print a 30mm cube with no top and infill to confirm the printer is dialed in, takes about 15 minutes to print. The cube is a throw away that you can rip apart with pliers to test layer adhesion.

@sleepster217 Did you get you TAP working?