My first build / 3d printer

[sleepster217]

Quick question I am getting the octpuss pro I have heard of people powering the pi of the board and not getting the 5v psu I am going to get the pi5 should I go down that direction or just get the 5volt  psu

Edited June 13, 2024 by sleepster217

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Quick question I am getting the octpuss pro I have heard of people powering the pi of the board and not getting the 5v psu I am going to get the pi5 should I go down that direction or just get the 5volt  psu

I have both setups. Dedicated 5V for the Pi (Voron 2.4 300mm, Trident 250mm, Switchwire, VZBot) and running the pi of the octopus pro board (Voron 2.4 350mm, Trident 300mm , Micron, Trizero, Boxzero). To be honest, there is not much difference as long as when you use the octopus as a 5V source, you utilise both the 5V GPIO pins on the pi for the 5V supply.

[Dirk]

7 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

I have heard of people powering the pi of the board

Powering the RPi off the MCU is the standard schematics in the Fysetc kit I got. However, I have switched later to an Octopus pro 1.01 (Because I burnt the Fysetc spider several times). And Also powered the Pi off the Octopus board. Like on the Spider, as shown on their guide: https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Voron-2/blob/main/VORON2.4R2_SPIDER_V30_WIRING_S.pdf

https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Voron-2/blob/main/VORON2.4R2_SPIDER_V30_Wiring.pdf

I never had a problem.

After I converted everything to CAN, I get 'RPi undervoltage' messages in Mainsail, during the initial heating of the stock 1000W Fysetc bed.

This does not stop or pause anything. 

I have a nice Buck converter ready, lying in the drawer, just to hook up to the main PSU, but I have not had the need to do so.

So... I would not get a whole new PSU. Unless it is cheaper than the buck converter (24v-->5v).

Or you can do like I do, just hook it up and see what happens.

 

 

 

Edited June 13, 2024 by Dirk

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, Dirk said:

Powering the RPi off the MCU is the standard schematics in the Fysetc kit I got. However, I have switched later to an Octopus pro 1.01 (Because I burnt the Fysetc spider several times). And Also powered the Pi off the Octopus board. Like on the Spider, as shown on their guide: https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Voron-2/blob/main/VORON2.4R2_SPIDER_V30_WIRING_S.pdf

https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Voron-2/blob/main/VORON2.4R2_SPIDER_V30_Wiring.pdf

I never had a problem.

After I converted everything to CAN, I get 'RPi undervoltage' messages in Mainsail, during the initial heating of the stock 1000W Fysetc bed.

This does not stop or pause anything. 

I have a nice Buck converter ready, lying in the drawer, just to hook up to the main PSU, but I have not had the need to do so.

So... I would not get a whole new PSU. Unless it is cheaper than the buck converter (24v-->5v).

Or you can do like I do, just hook it up and see what happens.

Strange the bed heating sets it of as the bed is 240v /120v or am I wrong on that build and is 24v

 

But thankyou for then information 

[claudermilk]

I set my Trident up powering the Pi4 off the Octopus way before the kits or many people doing that. The only hiccup I ran into was only running a single 5V wire; after a while the Pi started throwing intermittent undervolt errors. I added the second 5V wire and it's been rock solid ever since.

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

I set my Trident up powering the Pi4 off the Octopus way before the kits or many people doing that. The only hiccup I ran into was only running a single 5V wire; after a while the Pi started throwing intermittent undervolt errors. I added the second 5V wire and it's been rock solid ever since.

Thankyou

[sleepster217]

On 6/13/2024 at 8:16 PM, Dirk said:

Powering the RPi off the MCU is the standard schematics in the Fysetc kit I got. However, I have switched later to an Octopus pro 1.01 (Because I burnt the Fysetc spider several times). And Also powered the Pi off the Octopus board. Like on the Spider, as shown on their guide: https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Voron-2/blob/main/VORON2.4R2_SPIDER_V30_WIRING_S.pdf

https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Voron-2/blob/main/VORON2.4R2_SPIDER_V30_Wiring.pdf

I never had a problem.

After I converted everything to CAN, I get 'RPi undervoltage' messages in Mainsail, during the initial heating of the stock 1000W Fysetc bed.

This does not stop or pause anything. 

I have a nice Buck converter ready, lying in the drawer, just to hook up to the main PSU, but I have not had the need to do so.

So... I would not get a whole new PSU. Unless it is cheaper than the buck converter (24v-->5v).

Or you can do like I do, just hook it up and see what happens.

Thankyou for the links gives me something to work with

[Dirk]

1 hour ago, sleepster217 said:

Thankyou for the links

You are welcome. I remember this part of looking, trying to read schematics, images, trying to understand how things are organized, taught me a great deal about how things work. 

After being busy for a while with the schematics/pictures from Fysetc, seeing how LDO was organizing their electronics compartment, was very informative.

I found the githubs of BTT, Siboor and Fysetc very informative to study schematics. If there is something you would like to know more about, just ask. We all have done it more than once and we can always redirect you to the correct locations.

[sleepster217]

Thankyou still need to get more bits my screen octpuss pro  and drivers ebb 2209 2040 and u2c board are on there way will be going to start ordering the heater for the bed soon and the last couple of motors still a ways off just slowly putting stuff together as I go but asking you guys questions and learning as I go the fun will be starting soon as I start the wiring and the coding but that is half the fun hey just trial fitted the stealth burner head still need the fans and hot end and extruder bits but just wanted to see what it looked like and squared it up

[sleepster217]

Question re config when the rest of my stuff gets here will be running a u2c off the pi for can bus do I do the canbuss config b4 I put the rest of the config files in my setup will be a pi5 4gb u2c controler ebb 2209 2040 octpuss pro h723 I have a knomi screen think v2 but the way it is written is unclear what I ordered chaiticlab cnc tap v2 motor drivers 2209 moons motors all round and will be doing the galileo2 g?( cw2 replacment ) and screen btt tft50 

 

The pi will be running the m2 mvme hdd

[sleepster217]

So have fitted the skirts and pannels will be removing them again but thought I would get them so I can put them back on quick later don't the locktite looks good cannot wait for some more bits to turn up soon got some of my electronics friday more should be here this week just need to order the pi and the psu and some other bits 

[sleepster217]

I do have a couple of noob questions re the setting up the pi 5 I take it u install the pi os and then download klipper and then to the board config etc also what version should I update all the btt stuff to as I will have unknown version on all the boards u2c and ebb etc

[sleepster217]

Will put some more pics soon

[sleepster217]

[sleepster217]

Just now, sleepster217 said:

Galleleo 2 built with can bus board and cable

[sleepster217]

[sleepster217]

Just now, sleepster217 said:

Fans installed and knomi v2 just need to do the wiring on it and order the hotend 

[sleepster217]

Had to do a small mod to screen mount as the btt pi tft50 v2.1 display buttons hit on the frame so cut the print a little bit and now fits sweet

Edited June 29, 2024 by sleepster217

[sleepster217]

Quick question re the can cable how has the guys doing umbilical done there's on the back this is what I was thinking tje silver wire is stainless steel 1mm was ment to be spring steel but alli sent the wrong stuff but will see if it works or not in am going to attach to the inlet with a support and the wire will go full length where did you guys run it once passes through the filter 

[sleepster217]

Just now, sleepster217 said:

Quick question re the can cable how has the guys doing umbilical done there's on the back this is what I was thinking tje silver wire is stainless steel 1mm was ment to be spring steel but alli sent the wrong stuff but will see if it works or not in am going to attach to the inlet with a support and the wire will go full length where did you guys run it once passes through the filter 

Last pic is a printed file hope it works OK 

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

where did you guys run it once passes through the filter 

Straight down the back of the printer in a conduit, then into the electronics bay.

[sleepster217]

6 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Straight down the back of the printer in a conduit, then into the electronics bay.

Sounds good to me 

[sleepster217]

On 6/29/2024 at 3:36 PM, sleepster217 said:

Sounds good to me 

Hey as I am doing a fresh build and I have seen comments about not updating but I assume I will have to what version  should I use for my build for all the btt gear

[mvdveer]

14 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

Hey as I am doing a fresh build and I have seen comments about not updating but I assume I will have to what version  should I use for my build for all the btt gear

When you do a fresh install, always use the latest version as you will flash your firmware with that versions and should not have any issues. My printers are all running the current version of Klipper and I have not experienced any issues. It is unlikely that through upgrading you will "brick" your printer. If something in the update causes an error, this is normally made clear in the error messages and is generally easy to rectify. The community in general is quite quick to respond with a solution.

[sleepster217]

On 6/3/2024 at 8:17 PM, Penatr8tor said:

I will expand on what @mvdveer said...

Yes, it will but you are giving up a good amount of performance by going with the Pi4, and not processor performance between the Pi4 and Pi5 which I believe is ~4-5X faster than the Pi4. The big difference when it comes to storage between the two is that the Pi4 has no PCI Express lanes built into it, so with the Pi4 you have to use USB 3.0 to connect. The speed difference between PCIe and USB is... PCIe 2.0 X 1 = 500 MB/s versus USB 3.0 = 0.626 MB/s (~300X faster) and I will toss this in for good measure... The Pi4 USB ports are shared so additional devices you connect are going to use some of your USB bandwidth.

So, to reiterate... Yes, it can, but would I? Probably not. Using an NVME SSD for storage was never part of the design of the Pi4 and using one thru USB is a compromise where you're losing a most of the performance advantages because you cannot use the intended interface. The Pi5 on the other hand has been designed to take full advantage of the NVME interface.

Final Advice: Get a Pi5 and call it a day or if you don't want to switch or can't afford it... then make sure you have a good name brand SD card to get the most performance and longevity out of your Pi4.

Hey I have my pi5 on order now with active cooler and m2 nvme adaptor ended up getting the pi one as was same price on the places I looked once u factored in freight however I was going to start my build with the micro sd card as I have a new one from b4 I saw this can the data get mirrored to the m2 nvme ssd at a later date as I am having to pull the hand brake on this build for a short term as I still need to get some other stuff for the printer to start working and I would like to see it printing sooner rather than later