Voron 2.4 Clockwork 2 extruder not functioning properly (after hundreds of successful prints)

[DennisM]

Hi everyone!

Reviving this thread since it's been a few months but I've *finally* gotten the chance to work on this and get things going. So far, here's what's successful:

• Voron TAP setup - works great after getting things configured properly.
• ChaoticLabs XY tensioners - they're great and work well
• I reprinted several parts that I didn't like the color of and replaced them with new parts printed in ASA
• Stealthburner toolhead with Neopixel LEDs and a Hartk 2 piece PCB setup (since I had the LDO breakout board in the electronics area)

Also part of this rebuild was a new Galileo 2 extruder. I did the procedure for calibrating E-steps by measuring the filament with a ruler, extruding, etc. and tweaking the value in the printer.cfg file. However, during this time I ran into a couple things. The first was that the extruder motor was running backwards, so I added a (!) in front of the dir_pin setting and now it extrudes in the correct direction.

The big problem I have now, which currently is a blocker to move forward, is that the extruder makes a clicking (or slight grinding) sound when extruding at a higher speed. While I was doing the E-step calibration I was able to extrude at about 5mm/s but not 10.

I didn't think it was going to be a problem, but my first test print exhibited this problem since I guess the flow rate was high enough to have the problem show up.

I adjusted the thumbturn thing with the spring, several times, but it didn't seem to help. If anything it made the problem a little worse when it was too tight.

I've stopped for now but I forsee taking the thing apart to try and find a problem but I thought I'd ask the great community here first if this is something folks have run into. Again, this is a brand new Galileo 2 build with a new SB toolhead. I had the AB and CW2 before.

 

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, DennisM said:

The big problem I have now, which currently is a blocker to move forward, is that the extruder makes a clicking (or slight grinding) sound when extruding at a higher speed. While I was doing the E-step calibration I was able to extrude at about 5mm/s but not 10.

What hotend are you running? What nozzle size?

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, DennisM said:

I was able to extrude at about 5mm/s but not 10.

Your hotend flow will restrict the speed you can print at. Most hotness such as REVO is restricted to maximum 15mm³ (recommended 12.7mm³)  

 

[DennisM]

Dragon HF so my flow rate is around 30. Never had issues like this with my old CW extruder and the same hotend.

Oh and the nozzle itself is a Microswiss 0.4 type.

Tested with PLA at 210C (usually I run at 200C but wanted to make sure it was melting properly).

Edited July 21, 2024 by DennisM

[Penatr8tor]

Yeah, 5mm/s3 is way too low for that hotend and the clicking... that sounds like the extruder is slipping. 

The first thing I would try would be to open up the extruder and with a 220c nozzle temp, push filament thru the nozzle by hand. it should push thru with minimal effort, 2-3 lbs (1-2kilos). If it doesn't then the hotend or nozzle could have some burnt residue blocking the path. If it pushes thru as expected, then the extruder is not doing its job. Then you'll have to determine what's worn or not working. A CW1-2 extruder relies on printed holes to support steel pins and when things get warm... plastic holes with metal pins in them can elongate from pressure, especially if you crank the thumb screw in.

My guess is that your extruder needs new printed parts, but test first.

[DennisM]

Whew! I fixed it.

Last night I had an idea. It's been a few months since I last printed before I made all the changes outlined in this thread. So just as an easy test, I unscrewed the existing nozzle, heated up the block and used my thin metal rod tool to clear out any debris from old filament. Then I installed a new nozzle and calibrated my new z-offset and things started working perfectly!

So it was just some old clogged nozzle and I guess any extruder might have issues with that. I am going to re-run my e-step calibration just in case.

Thanks everyone! I think I'm finally able to get my printing with this going again.

 

P.S. The reason I got a bit distracted in the middle of all of the 2.4 stuff was because I finished and started using a new Voron 0.2 that I built, which I love. Although the bed is small I've been surprised how many things I am am to get done with it. And for things that are too big, I've been practicing slicing up models in blender and adding holes for heat inserts and screws to make parts whole again. It's been a fun learning experience.

[DennisM]

Oh, interesting, I just read the Penatr8tor update above and he states basically the same thing - check the nozzle.

I'm glad this was the problem and that the Galileo 2 is doing it's job. While testing I was pushing filament through at 25mm/s.

[Samuel Nunes]

I had a similar problem, from what I saw you already fixed it there. But I'll leave a comment in case someone else has gone through the same thing. It turns out that for me, The problem was with the screw at the base of the guidler arm. I don't know if there was some temperature escape or if it was just wear and tear over time, but the ABS part around this screw deformed, creating a gap between the gears that hold the filament.The solution was to reprint this part, in case there is a problem in the future, I think about modifying this part and placing an m3 insert and removing the thread with a drill to slide freely.