Refurbishing my Voron 2.4 300

[claudermilk]

Oooo, lookit the fancy Techflex!  I briefly considered that one when building my speaker cables back when, but decided I wanted the cables to disappear and sticking with solid black would improve WAF too.

[Penatr8tor]

@claudermilk I've built my share of custom HIFI cables during my audiophile days. I always bought my cable stuff at Blue Jeans Cable. Of course, I suck at actually hiding the cables, as evidenced in my photos. 

This is my little stereo I put together.  A decade ago, I built this Dynaco ST-120 from a Bob Latino kit. The source is a 1st gen Sonos with a toslink connection to an Emotiva DAC. From there I go into a Martin Logan Dynamo Sub and then into the amp. I used to have a pair of B&W 602's but a few years ago I replaced them with a pair of Magnepan LRS's I found for a good price. 

 

 

 

[Dirk]

13 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

@claudermilk I've built my share of custom HIFI cables during my audiophile days. I always bought my cable stuff at Blue Jeans Cable. Of course, I suck at actually hiding the cables, as evidenced in my photos. 

This is my little stereo I put together.  A decade ago, I built this Dynaco ST-120 from a Bob Latino kit. The source is a 1st gen Sonos with a toslink connection to an Emotiva DAC. From there I go into a Martin Logan Dynamo Sub and then into the amp. I used to have a pair of B&W 602's but a few years ago I replaced them with a pair of Magnepan LRS's I found for a good price. 

I remember those big bulbs.. when I was a kid.. and they opened those cupboard sized tvs.. this would be inside...

Why do you have an antique tv's insides on a table?

[TitusADuxass]

2 hours ago, Dirk said:

I remember those big bulbs.. when I was a kid.. and they opened those cupboard sized tvs.. this would be inside...

Why do you have an antique tv's insides on a table?

I remember those clever glass jars. All the radio and radar systems that I worked were valve based, as was my electronics training. I liked them, you could see failures, voltages were easier to measure, etc. But, they did bite you if you were careless (ground out the anode caps before disassembly or you'll get a rude awakening).

 

[Penatr8tor]

@Dirk @TitusADuxass I made a quick build diary of my tube amp build. Already had pics from back in the day so, why not.

Go check it out Here

[claudermilk]

Wow, Blue Jeans Cables. I haven't thought about them for a while; that's where I got the supplies for my HT cablings. Great stuff at a great price.

You could always get some woven split loom to bundle those cables neatly, like what we use on the printer umbilicals. I have a side table with a few cables coming off it in a too-visible location & it cleaned that up nicely.

[Penatr8tor]

Another update...

After much crimping... I have the umbilical wired to both the toolhead and the breakout PCB.

And I have the component layout at a place where wires can get where they need to go in an orderly fashion. Basically the stock Voron layout.  I did mess up the sticking of the top cable raceway tho. Once the tape stuck, it fricken stuck so, it's going to live it's life like me... A bit flawed but functional. I think I'll add one more raceway under the PSU for the Z1-Z2 motor wires.

[KrauTech]

Looking good!!

 

god i hate crimping..

[Penatr8tor]

Worked on the external filtration system this weekend. The old Voron was sketchy at best IMO so I set out to redesign the filter box to fit a 150mmx100mmx15mm HEPA filter. I have a bunch of these left over from my VzBoT build so why not use the same filter right?

For the design task I started by making a model of the filter. I also have a left-over piece of 3mm thick carbon impregnated material to absorb that lovely smell you get printing ABS, also from the VZ build. 

Next I extracted some parts I needed from the Voron 2.4 Fusion CAD model. I wanted to use the grill, fan and mounting tabs from the Voron. The filter box I would design myself but in order to get everything to line up and work first time around... I'm going to assemble those part together on screen and that will be my template for the design.

Next, I create a new component and make a sketch of the side of the filter box. Since I aligned the back panel to the origin, I don't have to guess where the center line is because it's already lined up. The sketch is pretty simple, just a modified wedge shape. I also sketched in some construction lines that mimic the side profile of the filter to make sure I had room. I decided on a 20 degree angle, no particular reason other than it looked like a good angle. Shhhhh Pro Tip Design Secret, don't tell anyone... You can put things into your design for no other reason than, it just looks right, or you like it.

Then I create a symmetric extrude feature.

 

And then we use the shell command to core out the wedge shape.

 

A few more extrudes, adjustments, holes, fillets and chamfer later and the box part is done.

 

A test fit of the filter...

 

Next we create a simple cover.

import a fan and cover and the CAD is done.

 

And here's the result. This was a pretty simple design task. It took a couple hours and if you give mating parts 0.2mm clearance, everything will go together first time around as did this one. I had to order some longer screws and when they arrive, I'll cut some VHB tape and permanently mount it to the rear panel and add the cover. I'm contemplating designing a support frame for the carbon filter sheet. I don't think I need it because the air flow is such that it will suck the sheet to the HEPA filter but, as one of my fellow engineers always used to say... Never give an inanimate object a choice.

 

[mvdveer]

Love what you'r doing, and learning heaps - thanks!

[Penatr8tor]

14 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Love what you'r doing, and learning heaps - thanks!

You are most welcome!

A long time ago I learned and use this method for every design. I affectionally call it... Model everything. 

Any parts that attach to what I'm designing need to be modeled and inserted into the (as Fusion calls it) design file and of course, the 0.2mm clearance tip. Those are the important ones.

[Penatr8tor]

I've been working on something...

I want to install a camera to the inside of my Voron. I have one of the Waveshare super small thin USB cameras but it doesn't have a fisheye lens or any of the features of the Ardu-cam.

So, here's what I have so far. I've taken the Lukes Lab GoPro mount and added the ability to articulate the camera. I think I can mount it one the bottom rail and the articulate it into a position that with give me a good view of what's being printed and not run into things like the gantry and tool head.

Anyways, here the first shot at a design.

[Penatr8tor]

Printed up the CAD models. It can use a little tweaking. The cantilever arm definitely needs to be lengthened to allow for 360 degree rotation of the camera but, for now, it will do. I'll post up models once I get it fully dialed in.

Excuse the crappy photos, The printer is currently laying on its back having open bay surgery. 

[PFarm]

Awesome setup. You'll post a bed-level photo once powered up?

Edited May 29, 2024 by PFarm

[Penatr8tor]

@PFarm It has potential, there's not really any room with the gantry moving up and down taking up a bunch of space. Even with the camera flush to the inside of the door panel, I might still lose some print area along the front edge and may have to move the front left and right probe points for QGL. But we will see and there will definitely be pictures. If there's no way around losing a few MM's along the front... I never print there anyways so no harm no foul.

[Penatr8tor]

@PFarm I'm going to lengthen the cantilever arm to clear the camera and when I do, I'm going to add an o-ring gland so that I can install a friction o-ring to lock things into place a little more securely. The thumb screws worked better than expected. I modeled a hex on the bottom and a counter bore with M3 clearance hole going thru from the top. I pressed in a nyloc M3 nut in the bottom and screwed in an M3 x 30mm socket head. Super strong and secure.

[PFarm]

@Penatr8tor O ring makes sense, losing a few mm in that area you never use is no big deal. As you mentioned adjusting QGL also makes sense. 

[Penatr8tor]

OK so, round two on the camera mount. I swear, 3rd times a charm (round 2 has 2 iterations) is not some anecdotal statement.  For some reason it always takes 3 tries to get it right. 1st try works but not great. 2nd time is really close, and 3rd time... well that's the one. Seems to always go that way.

Enough babble.

At first I tried making a gland (groove) for the o-ring. That wouldn't work because I wanted to use an o-ring with a larger cross section. That o-ring had a 14mm OD and there wasn't any room on my 15mm octagon. Once I thought about it a little, I concluded that all I really needed is a disk-shaped spacer that fit in the ID of the o-ring that was 1mm thinner than the o-ring. The screw would center the spacer and also prevent over squishing.

The elongated cantilever arm (knuckle) became quite the challenge to print. I don't know if my Magigoo wore out or it was the first print of the morning, and I didn't heat soak enough, but one side kept lifting off the bed. It ended up taking 3 tries and a brim to get it printed. Soooo, I determined that there was just too much mass to be printing it in that orientation, so I slimmed down the middle about 50% and that one printed fine without and help from a brim or mouse ears to help it stick. Looks a little better too.

O-ring test using a spacer is a huge success. Looks great, you can't over squish it and the level of friction is easily adjusted with the thumb screws.

Bench test

On the printer

 

Here are the STL's and a Fusion file should you want to print one for yourself.

LL_GoPro 2020 Mount-Articulated_PK v8.f3z

Knuckle-01.stlKnuckle-02.stlKnuckle-03.stlBase.stlO-ring Spacer (2).stlThumb_Screw (2).stlTop.stl

[claudermilk]

23 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

OK so, round two on the camera mount. I swear, 3rd times a charm (round 2 has 2 iterations) is not some anecdotal statement.  For some reason it always takes 3 tries to get it right. 1st try works but not great. 2nd time is really close, and 3rd time... well that's the one. Seems to always go that way.

[Penatr8tor]

I just wanted to add...

For the thumb screws you'll need an M3 x 30mm SHCS and an M3 Nyloc nut. You can substitute blue loctite if you only have regular M3 nuts.

[Penatr8tor]

I've been working on the electronics bay. This is the #2 reason why I decided to do a refurb, 1st being the warped deck plate. It was my first printer kit and I just bundled and stuffed the supplied wiring as best as I could.

Before...

 

...and what I have currently. Last night I focused on getting all of the toolhead wiring completed. Only things I have left to do is the TAP/Probe wire, LED wires, X end stop, exhaust fan and a couple things here and there. I'm hoping to power her up this afternoon.

 

[claudermilk]

Lots better!

[Penatr8tor]

10 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Lots better!

Agree, I'm actually enjoying the process of routing wires, crimping and labeling with shrink tube. I'm flexing my inner Steve Builds.

On a couple wires I was like, crap, forgot the shrink tube label, what would Steve Builds do? OK, I guess I will de-pin and do it right. 

[PFarm]

Steve would be proud! 

[Penatr8tor]

I hope so.