First build 2.4

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Nilrods said:

But I am looking for which ever version will work consistently, less worried about which is newest or latest.

Any recommendations??

Either - both equally consistent in my opinion.

[Dirk]

7 hours ago, Nilrods said:

Any recommendations??

I do.

I would go for reducing wires. Which means about 400 gram less of wires, less weight on your gantry, less drag. I did not understand what this all meant, until I removed the drag chains and cables after converting to CAN. 

Reducing this weight and drag, will give you more speed and acceleration, and less noise when printing, which will translate in better prints.

 

Right now, a CAN system will be much more convenient, because the CAN toolhead boards are widely available for cheap prices. The newer USB toolhead boards which will also remove all those cables, also use similar hardware, only over a USB connection, but are suddenly 5 times more expensive and you will have only 1 or 2 options. Maybe in a few months it will have better availability, but right now this is how things stand.

In Anticipation of the anti-canners on this forum, I can assure you that installing and updating CAN on a Voron, is as easy as following Esotericals CANBUS guide. This makes installing and updating simple. Especially since it is explained in English, and the instructions are not translated from Chinese.

Make sure to not buy not-so-popular components, because the community knows less about them and you will get help less likely in case you run into a problem.

 

 

[Nilrods]

Awesome info!! Makes sense to me. 

I saw some posts about special cables maybe for CAN. Are they really needed? Any particular type?

I have a Octopus Pro v1.1, so I am guessing I need like an EBB36, and a CAN version of my cartographer then??

Looks like great info in that link!

[Dirk]

8 minutes ago, Nilrods said:

have a Octopus Pro v1.1,

A fairly common combination is to use the sb2209 (rp2040) board from BTT. The standard CAN version of Cartographer can be simply plugged into the SB000 part(faceplate), like shown here.

This package from BTT also comes with a decen can cable and a document which makes installing it on your SB through an umbilical a breeze.

You can also opt, like you say, ,for the ebb36, which does not come with a can cable. But it can be separately sourced from BTT. In my opinion the EBB36 is better than the 2 part more popular sb2209 which is prone to misplace and cause a short, burning your MCU.

You can also look at Mellow products, which are a bit more expensive but are qualitatively better. Officially Cartographer recommends BTT boards because mellow requires some soldering on the can cable to connect can peripherals. But I believe that is resolved with their version 3. Others might jump in on that topic.

[claudermilk]

13 hours ago, Dirk said:

In Anticipation of the anti-canners on this forum, I can assure you that installing and updating CAN on a Voron, is as easy as following Esotericals CANBUS guide. This makes installing and updating simple. Especially since it is explained in English, and the instructions are not translated from Chinese.

Make sure to not buy not-so-popular components, because the community knows less about them and you will get help less likely in case you run into a problem.

I feel attacked. 

That is good advice though. If you do decide to go that route, stick with the more popular, well-known hardware.

[Dirk]

Just now, claudermilk said:

I feel attacked.

Dont
I value your opinion as always, and also learned a lot from what you write here and there. And let's be honest, CAN is not as scary and confusing as it was 6 months ago, once you have a guide like the one we have now thanks to Esoterical.

[claudermilk]

I was joking & giving you a hard time. I'm not so much anti-CAN as CAN-isn't-for-me-right-now. It definitely seems to be making progress at least with some hardware options. I might even go down that rabbit hole some day, but right now the printer is working on newish components, so I don't want to change anything for a while. I have enough other tech challenges in the house, so I don't need to add another one at the moment.

[TitusADuxass]

14 hours ago, Dirk said:I can assure you that installing and updating CAN on a Voron, is as easy as following Esotericals CANBUS guide. This makes installing and updating simple. Especially since it is explained in English, and the instructions are not translated from Chinese.

 

If you run  Raspberry Pi.

[Dirk]

21 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

I have enough other tech challenges in the house

So do I!. My kids also became teenagers!

And I am not telling you to go CAN. @mvdveer is!

[Dirk]

5 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

If you run  Raspberry Pi.

?

I am afraid I do not understand you. Who does not run a raspberry pi?

The RPi replacements, were during the CoVid days when there was a chip shortage. By the time they hit the market, the RPi's were already cheaper than them.

That is why companies like BTT are pushing their inferior Manta MCU with their super inferior BTT-pi's. If you have them, replace them.

Even the new Pi Zero has more processing power than the BTT Pi's... so I really do not get why they are still sold for money and not given away by BTT.

A RPi just costs 45 euros nowadays. And you get a decent product instead of a fake product with all kinds of limitations and a custom OS. And as I said before, nobody is there to help you. Especially not BTT. Did you try to open a ticket at their site?

 

[Nilrods]

More good info, keep it coming!

Sounds like I will give the CAN stuff a try.

So got last of the rails. Got a couple(better) ones installed on the gantry.

Last pair(look more like 2nds) will put on other Z's.

Also got couple motors mounted.

[TitusADuxass]

22 hours ago, Dirk said:

?

I am afraid I do not understand you. Who does not run a raspberry pi?

 

Me! My v2.4 (TAP/EBB36, etc) uses a Manta M8P with a CB1. It works fine until the Canbus side throws a hissy fit (which it hasn't but, according to Pascal, it's only a matter of time).

Then you have to find the way to reconfigure it for Can. It used to be straightforward, now none of my original how-tos work.

This has peed me off so much that I've bought a new mainboard and a Pi ready for when my Vz 330 is up and running. I'll do an upgrade (including Cartographer) and then hopefully I'll be able to use the esoteric guide that you keep banging the drum about.

Apologies to @Nilrods for hijacking your thread.

[Nilrods]

No problem! All good info, including things to avoid.

 

 

[Nilrods]

One Z axis done, 3 more to go.

Sure wish I had smaller hands

Need to get last z rails lubed and on before mounting.

 

[claudermilk]

16 hours ago, Nilrods said:

Sure wish I had smaller hands

Wait 'till you build a V0.  (I cheated--I conscripted a smaller set of hands)

[Nilrods]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Wait 'till you build a V0.  (I cheated--I conscripted a smaller set of hands)

I can only imagine. I would have to rope some neighbor kids into it.

Guess I will not be building one of those

That clockwork 2 is no fun either. Started on that and had to put down because was frustrating.

[Nilrods]

All Z rails installed. Finally have all rails installed.

Also installed all Z axis, just need to install motors on 3 of them now. Still need to order the feet though.

 

[claudermilk]

Building one of these printers is a marathon, not a sprint.  I mostly worked about an hour or two an evening when I built mine (ok, the Trident wiring harness was mostly done on most of a Saturday in one mega session). When it gets frustrating, it's time to put it away for the day.

CW2 is a little fiddly and you have to make sure everything is fitting exactly right. Once you've got it set, it's worth it though.

[Nilrods]

Good advice!

Mine is definitely more of a marathon. I only get a couple hours a day myself.

Good to hear the CW2 is worth it.

 Got the z motors and idlers mounted. Back to the gantry now.

[Nilrods]

Working on the gantry and most of clockwork2 done(I think).

Of course I split one of the stealthburner plastic guard type pieces. Waiting for glue to dry

[Nilrods]

Anyone know what max temperature most of the spec'd non-heated chamber electronics are good to still operate in?

I plan on putting the 2.4 I am building in my garage. Yesterday was pretty hot day(115F degrees outside). Garage hit just over 40C(105F).

I believe the max recommended chamber temp is 50C, correct? So internal chamber components would be fine. Just wondering about other parts, not in chamber. 

Thoughts??

Thanks,

Chris

 

 

[Dirk]

On 6/19/2024 at 12:04 AM, Nilrods said:

stealthburner plastic guard type pieces.

The SB has built in support that needs cutting out and supports that have to break when you put in the ventilators. Check it out in the manual. 

2 hours ago, Nilrods said:

max temperature most of the spec'd non-heated chamber

Unless you are in Mecca, with temperatures of 55 degrees, I am sure you are good to go. I have only heard a lot about what is good enough inside the chamber, and most indeed are good until 50, unless you use specific other hardware, but never before seen anything for the outside components.

Most 'outside' components are in your electrical bay below the printer, and this should be ventilated. I wouldn't worry too much about that.

Then there is the printed parts outside. If your shed is 40 degrees, I guess it will be all right. and since you have everything printed in ABS, they should also be okay up to 80 degrees centigrade

[Nilrods]

Good info on SB, thanks!

 

Good to hear I should be ok on temp. Just figured if I needed to swap something out, now is better time while things are in pieces.

 

Just finished assembling gantry. Setting up testing din rail to setup all electronics and test before mounting everything underneath.