Now it is - Just a Trident 300mm

[Dirk]

5 hours ago, mvdveer said:

This filament has a lot of stringing.

You sure it is not PETG?

 

I know your plans with IDEX and your two Tridents.... And your love for changing tools... and all those top of the list tools that just lie in your spare parts drawers...

And ran into this just a few minutes ago, and thought: "that would be what @mvdveer needs right now!"

I think it would look great on this Trident

 

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Dirk said:

And ran into this just a few minutes ago, and thought: "that would be what @mvdveer needs right now!"

Added it to the list of possible toolchangers.

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Dirk said:

You sure it is not PETG?

Positive, prints like ABS. Have retraction set at 0.8mm at 20mm/s - will raise that to 1mm and see how we go.

[mvdveer]

Well got the tradrack wired up and installed on top of the printer. As I have the Trident TopHat mod installed , I drilled 4mm holes into the topcoat and inserted the standard Voron brass nuts. Also for the first time managed to insert these in plexiglass. Let's see how that works out!

Due to space constraints, and the printer living in the garage, I had to consider a few things regarding filament management.

I plan to house the filament in Sovol dry boxes. Each box takes two rolls of 1 kg filament. Three boxes will house the 6 rolls of filament - mostly ABS or ASA - and feed into the filament buffer.

The buffer system had to be compact and I quite liked the Stern Wheel Filament buffer.  Printed a "prototype/ temporary unit" and mounted this on the side of the printer.  (will reprint in the red and black of the printer and in better resolution. Plan to do this in multicolour as intended, thus want to get this thing up and running).

(In the picture it seems the second Bowden tube is kinked - it is an optical illusion - not kinked

Also printed and installed the Belay sensor to sync the extruders and accompanying software to hopefully get a more robust performance. Again scratched my head as to where in the world do you connect this thing - no instructions!. Connected it to the "EXTRA" port on the Mellow Fly and mapped it accordingly. Only realised this through browsing the directories of the Belay sensor and found the klipper file called "belay_trad_rack.cfg".

Installed the Filametrix toolhead and accompanying software.

As I am using Klippain on this printer, the software installation was a bit of a challenge but got there in the end.

Had to uninstall my version of Klippain, navigate to the Happy Hare branch and re-install, then installed Happy Hare 2.5.1 and started the configuration.

Ran into a couple of hiccups - soon got it figured out once I got my head around the naming conventions. There are a lot of information to check, double check, triple check , etc. although during install, the essential boards, etc is installed, you still have to go through ALL the .cfg files and adjust to your setup - tedious to say the least!

My TradRack is powered by a Mellow Fly ERCF Canbus board. Spliced the CanH and CanL into the existing wires and connected to 24V from the PSU.  (Now running Octopus, SB2040, Cartographer and Mellow ERCF on Canbus). Flashed with klipper and she is up and running!

Calibrated the selectors and when I went to calibrate the gear stepper - I ran into a driver error which caused all sorts of issues.  Switch motor wires around - which compounded the error - now I could not even home. Finally found the culprit - there is a gate sensor in the happy- hare hardware.cfg file that I did not comment out and this showed triggered, thus preventing the filament to load and giving a clog error.  (Why it gave a motor drv error - I do not know.

By the time I figured this out, it was late at night I and decided to call it a day - will revisit this when I continue this journey.

                                                                          

[claudermilk]

That looks so compact compared to ERCF.

[Dirk]

What an amazing journey!

I liked it better without the thing on top... it is so not Voron

No lights, no flashing no bling... 

I can not wait to see it print something in multi color....

[Penatr8tor]

On 12/6/2023 at 8:34 AM, PFarm said:

(Reverse electronic bay) So with the bed away from the bottom panel, it will not warp like on the 2.4 no need to secure it?

Just wanted to point out... 2.4's have the bed heater floating 20mm above the deck plate, dumping a ton of heat into it. And on the right side you have 2 fans blowing ambient air directly underneath. If the top layer gets warm enough, the surface tension on the top will be reduced allowing the bottom surface tension to pull the panel out of shape. On a Trident, the bed heater is a good 300mm above the deck so it will probably never get hot enough.

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, Dirk said:

I liked it better without the thing on top... it is so not Voron

I am in the process of designing a "screen" to hide the TradRack - but first I have to get this printing!

[mvdveer]

Had some trouble with the gear motor. Got the dreaded "DRV_STATUS" error whenever the motor was activated. After a lot of research  and following various threads, I got it working by disabling stealth chop - why would this have an effect? However the unit made an awful grinding sound and the extrusion was less than satisfactory.  Ended up replacing the motor - and right away - all was well.

All the calibrations done as described on the happy hare Github. Homing good. Changing tools as required, Feeding filament as required. Test prints to follow when I have some spare time again. Just glad it is finally mounted and calibrated.

 

[lawson.brian]

On 10/17/2023 at 11:01 AM, mvdveer said:

Thank heavens the tiny crimping is done!

Loved the inverted electronics on the previous Trident build and went straight to it on this build. (I do not see this as a mod, just a change of perspective )

Component layout done -- sooo much space!

                         

On to wiring

 

Hi Mvdveer, sorry to drag up an older post but do you have a picture of how your wiring is secured with the inverted electronics bay mod on your Trident? Secondly, do you add supports on the front and back to give the panel more rigidity. I am considering adding a third din rail (or printed alternative) down the middle purely to handle the cable organisation.

 

 

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, lawson.brian said:

Hi Mvdveer, sorry to drag up an older post but do you have a picture of how your wiring is secured with the inverted electronics bay mod on your Trident? Secondly, do you add supports on the front and back to give the panel more rigidity. I am considering adding a third din rail (or printed alternative) down the middle purely to handle the cable organisation.

Hi Brian, not sure what you mean. The picture you're referencing is of the toolhead. In the bay the wires are secured in channels. Here is a few pictures to the wiring paths:

Trident 300:

    

Trident 250:

   

   

 

The Trident 300 is currently printing and to remove the bottom panel, I have to remove the internal spool holder. Once I am done printing the current project, I can remove the spool holder and panel and take some pictures if you still want some.

[PFarm]

11 hours ago, lawson.brian said:

do you have a picture of how your wiring is secured with the inverted electronics bay mod on your Trident? Secondly, do you add supports on the front and back to give the panel more rigidity. I am considering adding a third din rail (or printed alternative) down the middle purely to handle the cable organisation.

Here is another layout option for the inverted electronics bay.

[lawson.brian]

Great! That gives me some good ideas. Thank you both. 

I have a relatively compact electronics setup - M8P with CB1, 200w psu and an omron SSR with the benefit of space (a 350mm frame).

 

[lawson.brian]

I don't want to hijack your build so I will just drop the one of the inverted bay on a 350mm bed sized frame before wiring.

[mvdveer]

31 minutes ago, lawson.brian said:

I don't want to hijack your build so I will just drop the one of the inverted bay on a 350mm bed sized frame before wiring.

Not hijacking the thread at all. Please post away . Looking good

[claudermilk]

Looking good. Now to hijack your hijack a bit. When I built my Trident I started out with those little jumpers on the controller board. It was suggested to me on the Voron Discord that instead of doing that, I should run a pair of wire runs direct from the power supply.

https://www.teamfdm.com/forums/topic/231-chris-250-trident-journey/?do=findComment&comment=915&_rid=417