Vorpal 180 - A Printed Printer

[claudermilk]

On 11/11/2023 at 7:41 AM, atrushing said:

Would this help?

Yes! I was thinking of suggesting something like that. It's quite clear now.

[atrushing]

I have been having extrusion problems lately after about 170 hours of printing on the Vorpal. After cleaning out the nozzle a couple times and even installing a new nozzle without any improvement, I think I've found the problem.

The gold ABS doesn't print very nicely but I didn't expect this..

[atrushing]

A sneak peak at the Mini Stealth 2.0

[atrushing]

The Mini Stealth 2.0 working file is a lot more organized for now but I still need to bring in all of the supplemental parts and make a few different shroud variations.

[Demosth]

Amazing work! So much fun to watch this evolve!

[Dirk]

I have read this from the beginning and am amazed. Awesome!

[atrushing]

Compared to before, this is an incredibly simple install. I am sorry that I didn't figure out this design earlier.

[mvdveer]

8 minutes ago, atrushing said:

Compared to before, this is an incredibly simple install. I am sorry that I didn't figure out this design earlier.

Innovation always evolves. We start with a very good design and through experience improve this to something better than the original. (That's why there are so many mods out there) Kudos on you for continiously improving on your design. I can only applaud you for what you have done. Looking forward to the final product. 

p.s. You know what you have done ? Bet you just want me to change all 4 mini stealths on my printers to the V2? 

[atrushing]

30 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

p.s. You know what you have done ? Bet you just want me to change all 4 mini stealths on my printers to the V2?

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

The main reason I started working on this design was to get easier access to the extruder for maintenance. Annoyance is the new 'mother of invention'.. But with a well working setup there isn't much need to upgrade (except for the improved cooling). Of course there is the bragging rights of having "the newest thing"

[Dirk]

1 hour ago, atrushing said:

Compared to before, this is an incredibly simple install. I am sorry that I didn't figure out this design earlier.

I think it looks better than the (official) Stealthburner

[sparky06757]

On 5/7/2023 at 3:03 PM, atrushing said:

I have finally printed the first part on my Switchwire.

A template for the bottom plate. If I had enclosed the Switchwire I could have printed the whole plate directly in ABS but since the glass bed has a 0.5mm dish to it, I will hold off on the enclosure until I can find a better 310x310mm build plate solution (recommendations are welcomed).

Okay I must have missed this post entirely because I have been searching for the parts to make a cr10s a switchwire and here you already have one.  File location please and thank you lol

 

[atrushing]

57 minutes ago, sparky06757 said:

Okay I must have missed this post entirely because I have been searching for the parts to make a cr10s a switchwire and here you already have one.  File location please and thank you lol

I don't know how similar the CR-10s and the Sidewinder are but here are the files. I just dumped my latest working files there and the design could still use some work. The .blend file is pretty complete though.

[sparky06757]

1 minute ago, atrushing said:

I don't know how similar the CR-10s and the Sidewinder are but here are the files. I just dumped my latest working files there and the design could still use some work. The .blend file is pretty complete though.

Thank you sir!  They should be pretty similar.  I will take a look.

[Dirk]

40 minutes ago, atrushing said:

I don't know how similar the CR-10s and the Sidewinder are but here are the files. I just dumped my latest working files there and the design could still use some work. The .blend file is pretty complete though.

Thank you for sharing your files.

I have two Artillery Sidewinders X2. And did consider converting one of them into a 'SwitchWinder'. I did find these other two posts, one here on TeamFDM.com  by @DangerBit and the other a serial request referencing the  first and a Genius to Switchwire conversion Github. Now with your repository there are 3  And to be honest... your design really looks much more neat... No idea why.... I will look further into it...

@sparky06757 If CR-10 is an Ender, I believe there are even kits for sale on AliExpress to convert an Ender 3 pro to a switchwire  

[atrushing]

6 minutes ago, Dirk said:

Thank you for sharing your files.

I have two Artillery Sidewinders X2. And did consider converting one of them into a 'SwitchWinder'. I did find these other two posts, one here on TeamFDM.com  by @DangerBit and the other a serial request referencing the  first and a Genius to Switchwire conversion Github. Now with your repository there are 3  And to be honest... your design really looks much more neat... No idea why.... I will look further into it...

@sparky06757 If CR-10 is an Ender, I believe there are even kits for sale on AliExpress to convert an Ender 3 pro to a switchwire  

I hope they can help. The A/B tensioning system needs a little reworking. Once it is adjusted it is nice and rigid but the wedge doesn't have enough range of movement. I want to improve the design but I have a few other priorities for now.

The part I like the most is the Y axis linear rails and tensioning setup. The Y axis idler is hiding in the front piece and is held in place on a simple pin by tension only.

[Dirk]

42 minutes ago, atrushing said:

I hope they can help. The A/B tensioning system needs a little reworking. Once it is adjusted it is nice and rigid but the wedge doesn't have enough range of movement. I want to improve the design but I have a few other priorities for now.

The part I like the most is the Y axis linear rails and tensioning setup. The Y axis idler is hiding in the front piece and is held in place on a simple pin by tension only.

I believe one of these conversions does not even bother to convert the y axis into rails, leaves the 'wheeled' design as is, with the belt. This one really looks great. Not like the Y modifications I have seen elsewhere (they put two rails on top of the extrusion instead of on each sides).

I have seen how extensively you work on VorPal and on the mini Stealthburner. I think that is much cooler and innovative and you shouldn't waste your time on improving this design (it works )
Thanks again for sharing and your contributions!

[atrushing]

Thanks for the kind words.

I plan on trying to sell the Switchwire and I would like to fix it before I do. I already have an idea of a better design and it shouldn't be too hard to implement. But this is a project for later.. Maybe before I start working on the Vorpal 120.

4 minutes ago, Dirk said:

the extrusion instead of on each sides

In order to fit the rails on the sides, the 2060 profile needs to be raised with at least a 1mm spacer to keep from scraping the frame and then the Y axis needs to be squared to the frame again. The top is an easier solution but I seem to like punishment..

[Dirk]

21 minutes ago, atrushing said:

..In order to fit the rails on the sides, the 2060 profile needs to be raised with at least a 1mm spacer to keep from scraping the frame and then the Y axis needs to be squared to the frame again...

Explains why the other design puts the rails on top of the extrusion. It just requires raising the endstop sensor. Now, let me not keep you from your work

[sparky06757]

3 hours ago, Dirk said:

Thank you for sharing your files.

I have two Artillery Sidewinders X2. And did consider converting one of them into a 'SwitchWinder'. I did find these other two posts, one here on TeamFDM.com  by @DangerBit and the other a serial request referencing the  first and a Genius to Switchwire conversion Github. Now with your repository there are 3  And to be honest... your design really looks much more neat... No idea why.... I will look further into it...

@sparky06757 If CR-10 is an Ender, I believe there are even kits for sale on AliExpress to convert an Ender 3 pro to a switchwire  

Good evening sir.  I have a enderwire conversion already but I also have a CR10 frame that I would like to convert but there are enough differences in the frames that some of the ender parts do not work for the CR10 frame but thank you for the good info kind sir!

[sparky06757]

12 hours ago, atrushing said:

Thanks for the kind words.

I plan on trying to sell the Switchwire and I would like to fix it before I do. I already have an idea of a better design and it shouldn't be too hard to implement. But this is a project for later.. Maybe before I start working on the Vorpal 120.

Have you seen the TriZero mod for the V0.  You should check it out.  Its the 120 version of your Vorpal 180 except that its not all printed like yours.  I am actually in the process of converting my V0 into it now.  I am thinking really hard about using the same colors on the Vorpal build that I did on the TriZero cause I think they would look really cool sitting next to each other.  Now I have a few questions concerning the stl files for this build.  Would it make it stronger if you were able to combine some of the parts together to be printed on a larger format printer?  If so would you be willing to do that??  If not then it's no big deal.  Just thought I would ask!

[atrushing]

11 minutes ago, sparky06757 said:

Have you seen the TriZero mod for the V0.  You should check it out.

Yeah, I followed @mvdveer when he was building his. Making a 120mm version of the Vorpal will mostly involve making the center connecting sections shorter. I've bought some black sparkle ABS for printing the 120 frame!

17 minutes ago, sparky06757 said:

Would it make it stronger if you were able to combine some of the parts together to be printed on a larger format printer?  If so would you be willing to do that?

It should be stronger and no problem to print each side of the frame as one piece. Each part is printed in the same orientation already. The main concern is making sure that the scale factor is good after shrinkage and the pieces are printed squarely. Also, the corners of the print bed are often cooler and might be more prone to warping. At 360g of filament it would be a painful print failure. I will try to mash them together and add the two sides on GitHub.

[sparky06757]

1 hour ago, atrushing said:

Yeah, I followed @mvdveer when he was building his. Making a 120mm version of the Vorpal will mostly involve making the center connecting sections shorter. I've bought some black sparkle ABS for printing the 120 frame!

It should be stronger and no problem to print each side of the frame as one piece. Each part is printed in the same orientation already. The main concern is making sure that the scale factor is good after shrinkage and the pieces are printed squarely. Also, the corners of the print bed are often cooler and might be more prone to warping. At 360g of filament it would be a painful print failure. I will try to mash them together and add the two sides on GitHub.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with on the 120! I get the concern with the bed being cooler out on the edges.  I bought the edge to edge heater for my bed so hopefully I won't have a issue there but I will let you know when I get that far.  Thank you for uploading them as one piece.  

[atrushing]

On 12/14/2023 at 2:32 PM, sparky06757 said:

I bought the edge to edge heater for my bed so hopefully I won't have a issue there but I will let you know when I get that far.  Thank you for uploading them as one piece.  

Good luck! I made two-part sides as well that can fit on a 350mm printer.

[atrushing]

I am still working on the Mini Stealth v2. The core parts and shrouds are finished and I am modifying the ZeroClick mounts right now. Then I need to verify the x-frame/carriages..

[atrushing]

Since some of the resolution of the last picture got lost, here is the current lineup of supported hotends. Some of the cores fit multiple hotends.

The Dragonfly BMS 6 and 7 fin are the only ones that will require support for printing.