Simon2.4's Voron Saga

[Killajoedotcom]

Curious if you could share your Print_start macro. Having issues finding something that works properly. My Trident always tries to print before the nozzle is to the correct temperature 

[Simon2.4]

1 hour ago, Killajoedotcom said:

Curious if you could share your Print_start macro. Having issues finding something that works properly. My Trident always tries to print before the nozzle is to the correct temperature 

I havn't touched that yet, it's still the same as in the base voron 2.4 config file and I have not done anything in octoprint either:

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
#   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
    G32                            ; home all axes
    G1 Z20 F3000                   ; move nozzle away from bed
   

 

[Killajoedotcom]

12 minutes ago, Simon2.4 said:

I havn't touched that yet, it's still the same as in the base voron 2.4 config file and I have not done anything in octoprint either:

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
#   Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
    G32                            ; home all axes
    G1 Z20 F3000                   ; move nozzle away from bed
   

Nonetheless, I appreciate you. 

[Simon2.4]

Temporary measures

Before I can finish my build, I need to print some rather large and difficult parts. To increase the likeliness of successful and good quality prints, I can't just use the machine as a 'skeleton' It need an enclosure and it need stability *alot*

as it turns out, good old foamboard from the dollar store is exactly the right dimensions to fit on a 350mm machine frame and makes excellent temporary enclosures.

As for stability, I stacked about 10Kg of magazines on top of the machine to raise its center of gravity, augment it's mass and preload the structure. In addition to that, I fixed it to the walls of the house by a friction joint through the foam blocks on top so as not to concentrate stress at any point of the structure. It works well up to now but this is still 'work in progress'

[Killajoedotcom]

That's one way to do it.

I love the innovation.

Thanks for that start gcode as well. I was able to get something I think works well. I can share it with you if you wish, just shout.

[Demosth]

21 hours ago, Simon2.4 said:

I tightened all 4 screws to hold the bed firm during the assembly;

Ahh - yes that will do it - thanks for explaining - a great thing to remember during the build process!

Love the stop-gap measures - So excited when I see you have a post and update!

[Simon2.4]

On 2/5/2022 at 11:55 AM, Killajoedotcom said:

Curious if you could share your Print_start macro. Having issues finding something that works properly. My Trident always tries to print before the nozzle is to the correct temperature 

in your start GCODE change

M104  (set extruder temp) for M109 (set extruder temp and wait)

https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

Edited February 6, 2022 by Simon2.4

[Killajoedotcom]

1 hour ago, Simon2.4 said:

in your start GCODE change

M104  (set extruder temp) for M109 (set extruder temp and wait)

https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

That wasn't my issue exactly. What ended up working was adding a "TEMPERATURE_WAIT" command into the macro. 

Here is what I currently have...

 

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:        
    # Parameters
    {% set bedtemp = params.BED|int %}
    {% set hotendtemp = params.HOTEND|int %}
    {% set chambertemp = params.CHAMBER|default(0)|int %}
    ## Metric values
    G21
    ## Absolute positioning
    G90 
    ## Set extruder to absolute mode
    M82
    ## Reset feedrate to 100%
    M220 S100
    ## Reset flowrate to 100%
    M221 S100
    ## Start bed heating
    M117 Heating bed...
    M190 S{bedtemp}                                                              ; set & wait for bed temp
    ## Homing Routine w/ Z Tilt and Mesh Load
    G32
    TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor chamber" MINIMUM={chambertemp}   ; wait for chamber temp
    # Set GCODE offset
    SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=0
    G0 X175 Y175 Z10 F3600
    M109 S{hotendtemp}                                                           ; set & wait for hotend temp
    # <insert your routines here>
    #G28 Z                                                                        ; final z homing
    M117 Printing...

[gcode_macro G32]
gcode:
    BED_MESH_CLEAR
    G28 Y0 X0 Z0
    Z_TILT_ADJUST
    G28 Y0 X0 Z0
    BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default

 

[Killajoedotcom]

Everything working perfectly now.

[Simon2.4]

OK I'm near the finish line.

I mentioned earlier something about a structural mod. The Idea was to make a "Dumbell" from a 3d printed shell filled with concrete and held by integrated extrusions.

This would have provided strength, weight and rigidity and I would have put one on each side of the printer.

I designed this fusion360 and it's entirely parametric so it can be adjusted to any specific need. I put many many hours of design, test prints and trying to pull it off.

The idea was to make something printable but it turns out its too complicated and difficult to print and each piece weighs 500grams so that's 4Kg's of plastic... I was able to print 3 good parts on my voron but failed 3 more including 2 with my cr-10 printer before I built my voron.

So I'm already at 3kg's of plastic used at +-50$; the project requires 4 2020 extrusions at +-40$ and a 20$ bag of high tech concrete.

I had a better idea this morning: what if I simply replaced the plexi panels with heavy glass! So I called my local glass shop and got quoted 100$ for 3 x 484mm x 904mm x 6mm with polished edges only. The 3 panes together weigh 19Kg's or 42 lbs and are nice and flat .  F$?%$ sunken cost fallacy. this is a way better solution than my fist idea so I ordered the glass!  I will have it this week. It's going to look amazing!

I'm going to vhb the glass on the frame and add the original voron clips to stick with the original design.

***************

I got an original Panasonic GX-H15BI probe which is supposed to have amazing thermal stability
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/panasonic-industrial-automation-sales/GX-H15BI/3896896

******

I'm replacing the base fans for 120mm pc fans. I'll install them slanted in the base. Those 60mm 24v fans are so noisy. I got a MeanWell 12v 50w PSU for the new fans and the LED'S: the cheap wall adapter flashes the led's when the SSR is doing it's thing  ; )

[Simon2.4]

As mentioned above, I'm making the enclosure out of heavy glass panels to address the stability and rigidity issues related to my oversized build. To hold the heavy glass panels that are 6mm thick, I redesigned the enclosure clips to be more meaty and strong but I copied the exact dimensions to reproduce the look of the originals; I added 2mm of thickness to the retainer tabs and made the base 7mm for the glass and a layer of VHB tape.

My machine is going to weigh close to 100 lbs when I'm done with it 

**I just noticed I messed up the corner pieces as for the original look..  Oh well, I guess it'll wear my personal touch since the 'platter' is already ordered.

Edited February 9, 2022 by Simon2.4

[Simon2.4]

The Panasonic probe is considerably smaller than the Chinesium one. The screw holes do not line up at all. On the other hand it is so lightweight that VHB is more than enough. It's installed and functional and required nothing else than a physical installation. No config.

 

The glass panels are installed. Steps to do this:
1 - clean frame and glass with IPA

2 - apply VHB to the frame and make sure to leave 20-30mm of backing sticking toward the inside

3 - With the frame lying down, Put the glass on top and carefully align it; it should slide fairly easily on the VHB backing.

4 - when you are sure about the positioning of the pane, carefully remove the VHB backing from inside.

5 - Add the retainer hardware for looks and safety.

6 repeat on 2 more sides.

VHB used is the firm type in 1/8" width :https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00N3U5EH8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US Amazon Link for the VHB Tape Used

A note on VHB: it behaves same as "Command strip" adhesive: it can be easily remove from most surfaces by stretching the foam matrix

[Simon2.4]

The 2mm acrylic door panels look so flimsy now... I'm tempted to have glass doors cut too

[3dKaosMonkey]

What is the benefit of that new sensor?  I see that they are not readily for sale.  

The glass you purchased.. is that tempered/safety glass?

[Simon2.4]

9 minutes ago, 3dKaosMonkey said:

What is the benefit of that new sensor?  I see that they are not readily for sale.  

The glass you purchased.. is that tempered/safety glass?

The new sensor has thermal stability: the chinese one goes out of spec when it warms up and there are reports of it's casing melting but that has to do with the variability in the plastic used. Some batches are good some are not. you may be lucky and have a 'lottery winner' probe that will work perfect. Mine was not and I like the probe for QGL I didn't t want the clicky probe; just a personal preference Clicky is awesome.

The glass is just plain float glass, the kind that makes horrible long blades when it breaks   lol Same you would get for making an aquarium

[3dKaosMonkey]

1 minute ago, Simon2.4 said:

The new sensor has thermal stability: the chinese one goes out of spec when it warms up and there are reports of it's casing melting but that has to do with the variability in the plastic used. Some batches are good some are not. you may be lucky and have a 'lottery winner' probe that will work perfect. Mine was not and I like the probe for QGL I didn't t want the clicky probe; just a personal preference Clicky is awesome.

The glass is just plain float glass, the kind that makes horrible long blades when it breaks   lol

Ah... That would worry me.... wonder if there is some exterior film you can put on ...if you wanted that would help prevent artery cutters if there were an accident

[Simon2.4]

Just now, 3dKaosMonkey said:

Ah... That would worry me.... wonder if there is some exterior film you can put on ...if you wanted that would help prevent artery cutters if there were an accident

It's very solid, 6mm glass is no joke you need to hit it hard to break that.

[3dKaosMonkey]

That is good to know.   Did you do a serial request yet...    Would love to see this machine highlighted... 

 

[Simon2.4]

Just now, 3dKaosMonkey said:

That is good to know.   Did you do a serial request yet...    Would love to see this machine highlighted... 

Yah, it's approaching the finished state, still have hardware it install and ran out of 3mm spring tnuts so it'll be next week. I don't have a Discord community number do you think it will be an issue? Or just give any name is ok? It seems like every request I see has this number

[3dKaosMonkey]

This is all I know.. per reading about the serial request.

All it takes to receive a serial number after you have completed your build is to post a video of your printer printing on the Voron Subreddit. Be sure to have your printer cleaned up with all cable management above the deck plate done. Wiring can be tricky, but do your best!

Note: the serial submission process has become more automated now. In order to have the bot pick up your serial request video, be sure to use the “Serial Request” flair and add your full Discord name, including the unique 4 digit number (for example, #1234) after your username. Mods will review the requests periodically!

[Simon2.4]

1 minute ago, 3dKaosMonkey said:

full Discord name, including the unique 4 digit number

ahh I see, that's where I had it wrong thanks buddy!

[Simon2.4]

Serial Request done!

 

[Demosth]

Love the TeamFDM shout out!!!

Great looking printer. I’ll have to consider glass panels as well, such a solid, professional, looking printer!

[Simon2.4]

The glass enclosure works as intended: the printer is rock solid, heavy and stable. The print quality improvement is remarkable: The appearance improved all around but most impressive is that it almost seems to print better in the top 25%. It makes little to no sense I know but it appears that way.

 

Needless to say these results are very good! There is still tuning to do and I need to learn to use it better mostly but I'm very happy with the outcome.

[Simon2.4]

Added custom Beefcake Handles   find the design here: