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Voron kit comparison - need some help


Coffee4day

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5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Just don't over think it.

Yup.

Great tricks and super handy tools to make things square.

Cheap ass me didn't buy those used other means.

But all was perfect. Even my gantry was perfectly square fitted all in one time.

About 3 months ago (8months after the initial build), I wanted to hide the wires coming out of the chamber lights and removed the z idlers on the back.

 

Screenshot_20240516-1930542.thumb.png.00caaf22c286bf3ae48a03719be7f61a.pngScreenshot_20240516-1931152.thumb.png.28d4eb48d4c154229626a20df3516f74.png

 

I can guarantee that I had these square when it was built 🙂

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3 hours ago, Dirk said:

I can guarantee that I had these square when it was built 🙂

 

3 hours ago, Dirk said:

Cheap ass me didn't buy those used other means.

Stop tightening your belt and TIGHTEN the screws 🤣

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14 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Stop tightening your belt and TIGHTEN the screws 

Right.

Good tip.

I can assure you that the screws in the extrusions were tight as possible. I do not use a torque limiter, but It is strong enough.

And you are right, this must have happened after I had tightened my Z belts, but had no idea how tight it had to be. The guitar apps somehow do not work on my cheap chinese phone. 

Surprisingly, I never had this issue on the front. 

After I got my Cartographer, I was able to check the tension and tension equality on my z-belts by performing the backlash_estimate command. And they were all similar. This was before I found out about this problem.

After correcting it, I am regularly checking. But like with all moving parts, I guess everything is possible. 

Someone told me to use loctite, even on the screws to tighten the extrusions. But I thought that it was a bit too exaggerated. (and not recommended by the voron assembly guide).

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Dirk said:

After correcting it, I am regularly checking. But like with all moving parts, I guess everything is possible. 

No matter what we do and how tight they initially are, bolts/screws are bound to loosen over time again - it happens. Was only joking. 

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The belts are not guitar strings. You don't need fancy equipment or special methods. Tighten the belts until they give 3mm or so when you gently tap on them. Go around to each belt and make sure they are all tensioned the same. You'll know when they are tight enough. Enough so they don't slip on the gears, but not so tight there's no give to them at all. If a new belt installation, you will need to check them again after the printer has a few hours on it. 

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Thanks for your recommendation. 

I have no idea how guitar strings work. But on all guides you are told to tune your belts with guitar apps. So you might be giving another recommendation than the one on the vorondesign manuals.

3 hours ago, SuperBoppy said:

until they give 3mm

Now 'giving 3 mm' is something that can be interpreted with quite a high interobserver variability. 

And too much 'giving' z belts will give you less accuracy with z endstops, because of the backlash.

I can tell you how I do it: First I try to make all 4 my z belts similar so they all sound almost the same. Then I bring my toolhead to my 4 QGL points.

[quad_gantry_level]
...
#  Probe points
points:
   50,25   # Point 1
   50,275  # Point 2
   300,275 # Point 3
   300,25  # Point 4

And run the command 

CARTOGRAPHER_ESTIMATE_BACKLASH

This gives something like: 

Median distance moving up 1.91355, down 1.98312, delta 0.06956 over 20 samples

I tighten or loosen carefully until DELTA is similar on all 4 points.

 

To me, this feels much better than 'feeling' and hearing the tension with your finger like Nero does.

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5 hours ago, Dirk said:

To me, this feels much better than 'feeling' and hearing the tension with your finger like Nero does.

I like this thanks - going to give it a go

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