Mini Stealth - Orbiter 2.0 v. 1.2.5

1 hour ago, bthubs said:

Some quality-of-life suggestions:

- a small hole to reset the knomi from the outside

I guess you mean this one.. I will see what I can fit.

1 hour ago, bthubs said:

- a lever for the orbiter

This will be tricky with the filament sensor but I will look into it.

19 hours ago, bthubs said:

I’ll post shaper data when I’m satisfied with my gantry squaring

These graphs are similar to when I was using another toolhead (MiniSB HackyBoi + sherpa mini). Seems like it won't affect max acceleration too much but I suspect why I'm getting two peaks on Y may be related to the 2-point mount on this mod vs the 3-point on the MiniSB. Not the most ideal curves but whatever, this is fast enough , at least for a Micron . I'm currently building an Annex K3 and I expect to push 30k m/s^2 or more with that. 

18 hours ago, atrushing said:

Some quality-of-life suggestions:

Something I forgot to mention too, I had trouble fitting the wires on the 2nd LED (when facing the shroud from the front, the right LED holder), ended up breaking it both times I've tried. Did I do something wrong? I made sure to make the wires as centered as possible as to not interfere with the LED going in

19 hours ago, bthubs said:

Something I forgot to mention too, I had trouble fitting the wires on the 2nd LED (when facing the shroud from the front, the right LED holder), ended up breaking it both times I've tried. Did I do something wrong? I made sure to make the wires as centered as possible as to not interfere with the LED going in

Yeah, the LEDs are a bit of a pain.. The pockets are designed for the "IN" side to go up on both sides because they are not exactly symmetrical. Also, as shown in the Stealthburner manual they won't work sideways.

is there an updated mgn7 toolhead mount with out the end stop have i missed the post ?

11 hours ago, colly05 said:

is there an updated mgn7 toolhead mount with out the end stop have i missed the post ?

I will try to upload one tomorrow.

On 9/6/2023 at 11:04 AM, colly05 said:

is there an updated mgn7 toolhead mount with out the end stop have i missed the post ?

Here is a new MGN7 x-carriage without the endstop.

x_carriage_Mini_Stealth_Orbiter_MGN7_no_endstop.stl

Love this design. Great work. Ive adapted it to fit a bambulabs cht hotend, biqu microprobe, btt knomi in the main piece and an afterburner toolhead pcb mounted behind the orbiter 2.0 motor to make me not hate myself later. Just extened the middle section with the mounting holes along with the cable door and bolting it straight to my printers carriage since its not a full voron. 

10 hours ago, thp777 said:

Love this design. Great work. Ive adapted it to fit a bambulabs cht hotend, biqu microprobe, btt knomi in the main piece and an afterburner toolhead pcb mounted behind the orbiter 2.0 motor to make me not hate myself later. Just extened the middle section with the mounting holes along with the cable door and bolting it straight to my printers carriage since its not a full voron. 

Sounds great! Would love to see a picture or two.

I am very happy with the Biqu MicroProbe so far.

On 8/18/2023 at 4:37 PM, bthubs said:

These graphs are similar to when I was using another toolhead (MiniSB HackyBoi + sherpa mini). Seems like it won't affect max acceleration too much but I suspect why I'm getting two peaks on Y may be related to the 2-point mount on this mod vs the 3-point on the MiniSB. Not the most ideal curves but whatever, this is fast enough , at least for a Micron . I'm currently building an Annex K3 and I expect to push 30k m/s^2 or more with that. 

 

I do get alot better results (also pay attention to the vibration, usually you want to be at 0% or very close to it) and this is also using the boop(small version of tap) version of this. I would like to have a third screw as well, i think that could yield alot better results. but your graphs definitely look like there is something else going on as well, they are very noisy and so many peaks.

22 hours ago, xF4m3 said:

I do get alot better results (also pay attention to the vibration, usually you want to be at 0% or very close to it) and this is also using the boop(small version of tap) version of this. I would like to have a third screw as well, i think that could yield alot better results. but your graphs definitely look like there is something else going on as well, they are very noisy and so many peaks.

Thanks for the feedback. Yea I really should rebuild the gantry, not sure why I’m getting so many peaks since everything is tight (seemingly so)… 

Got my first Voron serial number today for my V0.2. This frame was what was printing for my serial number video. Started assembling it tonight. Let the modding begin! 

Will the Phaetus Rapido 2 HF work with this fabulous toolhead, too?

46 minutes ago, Jen Salik said:

Will the Phaetus Rapido 2 HF work with this fabulous toolhead, too?

I just double checked their latest .stl model from GitHub and the Rapido 2 has the same external dimensions and mounting holes as the original Rapido HF so there shouldn't be any fitment problems.

Could you also provide the STEP files?I want to use a dragonfly bms but there is no mount for it. Thank you.

5 hours ago, Matei said:

Could you also provide the STEP files?I want to use a dragonfly bms but there is no mount for it. Thank you.

This whole project was developed solely in Blender so I only have mesh files of these parts. I've heard that TinkerCad can be used to modify .stl files rather well and its workflow is closer to the typical 3D CAD software.

I have made a version of the Mini Stealth for the Dragonfly BMS but the red face will need supports or it would need a sacrificial bridging layer to allow the heat-set inserts to be installed from the front. Please let me know if this shroud fits the BMS or if I need to adjust it. It will need M3x12 screws to attach the hotend from behind.

[a]_Mini_Stlb_Orb_2.0_Dragonfly_BMS.stl

6 hours ago, atrushing said:

This whole project was developed solely in Blender so I only have mesh files of these parts. I've heard that TinkerCad can be used to modify .stl files rather well and its workflow is closer to the typical 3D CAD software.

I have made a version of the Mini Stealth for the Dragonfly BMS but the red face will need supports or it would need a sacrificial bridging layer to allow the heat-set inserts to be installed from the front. Please let me know if this shroud fits the BMS or if I need to adjust it. It will need M3x12 screws to attach the hotend from behind.

[a]_Mini_Stlb_Orb_2.0_Dragonfly_BMS.stl 846.08 kB · 2 downloads

I'll definitely, try it when I get the chance, I'll let you know if it works well. My concern is that the BMS in the attached image that is the 7 fin version and I believe the version I have the 6 fin one. Thank you for sharing your design!

52 minutes ago, Matei said:

My concern is that the BMS in the attached image that is the 7 fin version and I believe the version I have the 6 fin one.

According to the .stl files on their GitHub, the 6 fin version is 1.8mm shorter than the 7 fin version. I was able to stretch the mounting geometry down to fit. It will still need support for the face with the heat-set inserts.

[a]_Mini_Stlb_Orb_2.0_Dragonfly_BMS_6-fin.stl

8 hours ago, atrushing said:

According to the .stl files on their GitHub, the 6 fin version is 1.8mm shorter than the 7 fin version. I was able to stretch the mounting geometry down to fit. It will still need support for the face with the heat-set inserts.

[a]_Mini_Stlb_Orb_2.0_Dragonfly_BMS_6-fin.stl 845.88 kB · 0 downloads

Thank you for the quick replies, at least now the heat set inserts are more accessible.

On 10/23/2023 at 3:58 PM, atrushing said:

This whole project was developed solely in Blender so I only have mesh files of these parts. I've heard that TinkerCad can be used to modify .stl files rather well and its workflow is closer to the typical 3D CAD software.

I have made a version of the Mini Stealth for the Dragonfly BMS but the red face will need supports or it would need a sacrificial bridging layer to allow the heat-set inserts to be installed from the front. Please let me know if this shroud fits the BMS or if I need to adjust it. It will need M3x12 screws to attach the hotend from behind.

[a]_Mini_Stlb_Orb_2.0_Dragonfly_BMS.stl 846.08 kB · 3 downloads

I've printed the 7 fin version (cause apparently that's what I have) and I have some criticisms, I think the hotend should be raised by 1-2mm and the place where the 3010 fan is friction fit is a bit too tight and that stripped the isolation off my cables, shorting a mosfet in my motherboard, overall it's good. I've fitted a screw through the voron logo to mount a 4010 fan on the outside because the 3010 fan is dead but it works.

2 hours ago, Matei said:

I've printed the 7 fin version (cause apparently that's what I have) and I have some criticisms, I think the hotend should be raised by 1-2mm and the place where the 3010 fan is friction fit is a bit too tight and that stripped the isolation off my cables, shorting a mosfet in my motherboard, overall it's good. I've fitted a screw through the voron logo to mount a 4010 fan on the outside because the 3010 fan is dead but it works.

Sorry to hear about the mosfet. The shroud was originally designed for a 3007 fan and the 3010 does make it a tighter fit. When I get around to the larger update that I'm working on, I will try to make more clearance there as well.

I used the hotend models from the Phaetus GitHub but if you could measure the length of your hotend I can try to adjust the shroud. I put the nozzle at the same Z height as all of the other versions.

They state that their 6-fin version is 48.8mm long but this is the only drawing they have available. In their model, the 7-fin version is 50.8mm long. The Mini Stealth design has the tip of the nozzle at 2.2mm below the lowest part of the shroud.

1 hour ago, atrushing said:

Sorry to hear about the mosfet. The shroud was originally designed for a 3007 fan and the 3010 does make it a tighter fit. When I get around to the larger update that I'm working on, I will try to make more clearance there as well.

I used the hotend models from the Phaetus GitHub but if you could measure the length of your hotend I can try to adjust the shroud. I put the nozzle at the same Z height as all of the other versions.

They state that their 6-fin version is 48.8mm long but this is the only drawing they have available. In their model, the 7-fin version is 50.8mm long. The Mini Stealth design has the tip of the nozzle at 2.2mm below the lowest part of the shroud.

So I actually have the 7 fin version, and the measurements are correct, as in the distance from the nozzle tip to the fan shroud is 2mm, but it seems to me that some of the air is blowing on the heaterblock rather than the printed part.

33 minutes ago, Matei said:

So I actually have the 7 fin version, and the measurements are correct, as in the distance from the nozzle tip to the fan shroud is 2mm, but it seems to me that some of the air is blowing on the heaterblock rather than the printed part.

I did my best to aim the airflow at the tip of the nozzle but it is hard for me to say what really happens to the airflow as it exits the ducts under pressure.

Part of the update that I want to push for the overall Mini Stealth design improves the airflow quite a bit and I ended up achieving a 20% improvement in airflow but it involves gluing an insert into the blowers and only works with the ducts and inserts matched for a smooth air path. If you want to give it a try, I can work up another shroud.

50 minutes ago, atrushing said:

I did my best to aim the airflow at the tip of the nozzle but it is hard for me to say what really happens to the airflow as it exits the ducts under pressure.

Like air usually does... It goes all over the place LOL.

I mean let's face it, a good amount of air flow is going to be deflected by the part geometry and the part geometry is always changing and the nozzle is always moving over constantly changing terrain. I don't think it's something you can control really. Flooding the region with as much air as possible is probably as good as you can get. Air volume, I'm guessing, probably has a greater impact than direction of flow, given you're already pointing at the nozzle.

1 hour ago, atrushing said:

I did my best to aim the airflow at the tip of the nozzle but it is hard for me to say what really happens to the airflow as it exits the ducts under pressure.

Part of the update that I want to push for the overall Mini Stealth design improves the airflow quite a bit and I ended up achieving a 20% improvement in airflow but it involves gluing an insert into the blowers and only works with the ducts and inserts matched for a smooth air path. If you want to give it a try, I can work up another shroud.

It might just be my objective eye. I don't necessarily want to do more changes right now but if you make them, I'll have them for when I can experiment a bit, so don't do it if you don't want to.