Mini Stealth - Orbiter 2.0 v. 1.2.5

6 minutes ago, atrushing said:

The x_carriage pieces are for the V0.1/V0.2 and the x_frame_left/right pieces are for the Trident/V2.4. So, you will need the two files:

x_frame_Mini_Stealth_left_v1.2.2.stl
x_frame_Mini_Stealth_right_Umbilical.stl (from my comment above)

as well as the standard 'probe_retainer_bracket' from the repo or from UnKlicky.

Thanks, great!

Another Question. Would it be possible to close the original 5015 blower hole with a 30x30x6mm fan to cool the orbiter motor? Or is there a another cover to close the hole?

8 minutes ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

Thanks, great!

Another Question. Would it be possible to close the original 5015 blower hole with a 30x30x6mm fan to cool the orbiter motor? Or is there a another cover to close the hole?

There is less than 1mm between the shroud and the front of the Orbiter 2.0. On the Orbiter 1.5 and the LGX Lite Mini Stealth versions I have a decorative cover that can be installed from the back of the shroud but there isn't space to fit one for the Orbiter 2.0.

I have hacked together a cover that should fit in from the front but I don't know how clean it will be to glue it in. I personally like being able to see the extruder but you can try this.

Mini_Stealth_Orbiter2.0_Hole_Cover_test.stl

6 hours ago, atrushing said:

Good question. I can't find a 3D model from Creality but, from their line drawing, it looks to be 51mm tall when you take off the E3D V6 style adapter. The bolting pattern is the same as the Dragon (45.5mm tall) and the Rapido HF (54mm tall) but they both use M2.5 screws while the Spider uses M3.

It looks like I would need to create a new version to be compatible with the Creality Spider but it would be best if I could verify its length. It would not be too difficult as it would be a modification from my existing Rapido HF versions.

Thank you! Is there anything I can do to help you verify anything? Just let me know. It’s also interesting that their drawing says it uses M3 screws because I’m 95% sure I had to wait an extra day to get my printer going specifically for not having M2.5 screws to mount the hotend since M3 screws would not fit. Hmm 

8 hours ago, roddy said:

Thank you! Is there anything I can do to help you verify anything? Just let me know. It’s also interesting that their drawing says it uses M3 screws because I’m 95% sure I had to wait an extra day to get my printer going specifically for not having M2.5 screws to mount the hotend since M3 screws would not fit. Hmm

Thanks for pointing this out to me. I found a rather detailed model on GrabCAD and checking the geometry it looks like they modeled the threads as M2.5 as well. According to the model the Spider is 50.8mm tall.

This does mean that the Rapido HF shroud could be used with a spacer and longer M2.5 screws but I will make a specific version as it will be a much cleaner solution. One thing that I noticed is that the heater block is pretty bulky and sits pretty close to the LEDs. I hope this doesn't cause them to overheat..

When the shroud is finished, it would be great if you could let me know if everything fits as expected. Thanks.

4 hours ago, atrushing said:

Thanks for pointing this out to me. I found a rather detailed model on GrabCAD and checking the geometry it looks like they modeled the threads as M2.5 as well. According to the model the Spider is 50.8mm tall.

This does mean that the Rapido HF shroud could be used with a spacer and longer M2.5 screws but I will make a specific version as it will be a much cleaner solution. One thing that I noticed is that the heater block is pretty bulky and sits pretty close to the LEDs. I hope this doesn't cause them to overheat..

When the shroud is finished, it would be great if you could let me know if everything fits as expected. Thanks.

That’s amazing! Thank you so much for modifying your design to work with it. I’ll definitely test it out and let you know how it all fits.

On 2/20/2023 at 5:37 PM, atrushing said:

It turns out that the BL-Touch will fit into the Orbiter version of the Switchwire x-frame pieces! The BL-Touch just slots right in between the two halves and its tabs keep it in place.

I would have to change offsets for it to fit with the other hotends or in a V2.4/Trident so I will attach the files here and not in the downloads section. The new Biqu MicroProbe looks like it will be a lot easier to fit as it is only 25mm tall and it is also more accurate. Unfortunately it is out of stock for now. I will order a couple when they are available.

x_frame_Switchwire_Orbiter_left_BL_Touch.stl 434.85 kB · 3 downloads x_frame_Switchwire_Orbiter_right_BL_Touch.stl 447.74 kB · 3 downloads

Yes, matches perfect! Thanks!

4 hours ago, roddy said:

That’s amazing! Thank you so much for modifying your design to work with it. I’ll definitely test it out and let you know how it all fits.

The new shroud files are in the download section!

On 3/3/2023 at 4:58 PM, Wick said:

when looking @ the connection between carriage and MiniSB I saw that there could be an improvement in stability

as the contact surfaces below the screwholes of the minisb go directly to nothing on the carriage.

What do you think about?

While I was looking into this geometry I remembered why that face is sloped towards the middle. It is to avoid the need for support based on the print orientation.

downloaded the updated orbiter package but can't see the changes or eg. the [a]_Mini_Stealth_Orb_2.0_Rapido_HF_v1.2.4  in the .blend ....again PEBCAC?

7 minutes ago, Wick said:

downloaded the updated orbiter package but can't see the changes or eg. the [a]_Mini_Stealth_Orb_2.0_Rapido_HF_v1.2.4  in the .blend ....again PEBCAC?

Sorry, the .blend file is meant to be more of an assembly guide. If I tried to include each version in that file it would get very large (115.2MiB). You can import the current .stl files and rotate/move them into location.

The .stl files are the official geometry and Blender is a purely mesh file so the only thing that the .stl file looses is location.

No, I have builded it up! I am using a EBB36 at the back, with this, many cables are showing up.

Another question. There is a umbilical x Carriage. How can I use it? Actually the umbi is on the top of the SB?

46 minutes ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

Another question. There is a umbilical x Carriage. How can I use it? Actually the umbi is on the top of the SB?

I am not exactly sure what your question is but this is how the Umbilical piece was meant to be installed. I don't know if the EBB36 will fit the green piece though as it was designed around this board.

1 hour ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

There is a umbilical x Carriage.

The Umbilical version of the x-frame just allows the x-endstop to be mounted at the carriage which is part of the Umbilical modification. In the latest update, I have added this feature as standard because it doesn't hurt the standard x-frame at all.

I am now done with the conversion. A few things still don't work. One LED doesn't light up, I think it's the cable and the EBB needs to get a little closer to the Mini SB.

But, since the conversion, the orbiter crackles very loudly and clearly. I didn't have that before the rebuild.

Does anyone have an idea why the extruder is cracking now? I haven't changed anything on the software side.

13 minutes ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

I am now done with the conversion. A few things still don't work. One LED doesn't light up, I think it's the cable and the EBB needs to get a little closer to the Mini SB.

Looks nice! I like the skeletonized gantry beam.

I was checking the 3D model of the EBB36 and it looks like you could use the umbilical_mount with 3mm spacers to leave room for the components on the back of the PCB. Then you could also add a spacer behind the cable when you zip-tie it on to keep it more in-line.

For the Orbiter making noise, I only have a couple guesses. One is that the tensioning screw might be too tight causing skipped steps. I don't know much about the EBB36 but as it has its own TMC2209 driver on it, maybe it has a different value sense_resistor that would need to be changed in your printer.cfg.

10 hours ago, atrushing said:

Looks nice! I like the skeletonized gantry beam.

I was checking the 3D model of the EBB36 and it looks like you could use the umbilical_mount with 3mm spacers to leave room for the components on the back of the PCB. Then you could also add a spacer behind the cable when you zip-tie it on to keep it more in-line.

For the Orbiter making noise, I only have a couple guesses. One is that the tensioning screw might be too tight causing skipped steps. I don't know much about the EBB36 but as it has its own TMC2209 driver on it, maybe it has a different value sense_resistor that would need to be changed in your printer.cfg.

OK, thank u!

I probably won't use this holder. The motor in the orbiter is getting so hot that the EBB should be some distance away. With this holder, the motor is almost completely enclosed and cannot give off its heat.

I was using this solution bevore. Worked well except that it is too heavy and the part cooling is not sufficient.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5521536/makes

Here you can see that a motor cooling has been attached to the side for a 30x10 fan.

Have you ever thought about drawing a normal sized SB with an improved component fan? However, it looks like the 4010 fans are not available one size larger.

Regarding the extruder cracking. This setup isn't new. I just put it in a different case. Could it be that the HE cooling is too weak?

I use this fan here for the HE:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07RJGXHPY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I haven't found another one that fits.

3 hours ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

With this holder, the motor is almost completely enclosed and cannot give off its heat.

If you want to try this motor_bridge, it should let the motor heat dissipate a lot easier. It won't be quite as rigid but I think it should be good enough.

3 hours ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

Regarding the extruder cracking. This setup isn't new. I just put it in a different case. Could it be that the HE cooling is too weak?

For the hotend cooling fan, I use a 5V 3007 fan on four different printers using the Orbiter 2.0, Orbiter 1.5 and a Mini Sherpa and haven't had any problems while printing ABS, ASA and PLA.. I have read that the CAN-bus solutions have difficulties in hot environments. Sorry I can't help more.

Motor_bridge_frame_Orbiter_2.0_Slim.stl

Ok thank! I forgot to thank u for ur great desing, help and support!!

Now i habe simply pressed a round fan in the upper hole. I don’t know if this will hold or come out. It should blow from the front to the back to cool down the orbiter a little. Ur more airy holder will be printed in the next batch this will give more airflow. 
 

Here some pics of the news installation. 

5 hours ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

the motor is almost completely enclosed and cannot give off its heat.

Here is another version of the motor_bridge_slim with space for the extra heat-set inserts.

Motor_bridge_frame_Orbiter_2.0_Slim_2.stl

6 minutes ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

Now i habe simply pressed a round fan in the upper hole. I don’t know if this will hold or come out. It should blow from the front to the back to cool down the orbiter a little.

That looks very functional!

You could add a cylinder as a negative body when you slice the Mini Stealth shroud to get the fan to fit more accurately.

I think the fan plus the motor bridge with more clearance would allow you to use the other umbilical mount and that would insulate the EBB36 board from the motor heat very well.

25 minutes ago, atrushing said:

That looks very functional!

You could add a cylinder as a negative body when you slice the Mini Stealth shroud to get the fan to fit more accurately.

I think the fan plus the motor bridge with more clearance would allow you to use the other umbilical mount and that would insulate the EBB36 board from the motor heat very well.

Very nice! Thanks for the slim Motor Bridge. I will run a print

Question about this thing. I think this is the alternative coupler for use instead of the original. Because the original holds the PTFE tube in place with barbs. But this adapter also holds the tube so tight that I can't get the tube out.

17 minutes ago, Wasser Zeichen said:

Question about this thing. I think this is the alternative coupler for use instead of the original. Because the original holds the PTFE tube in place with barbs. But this adapter also holds the tube so tight that I can't get the tube out.

 

Yes, that is the purpose. I usually have to ream it out with a drill bit but it is a little bit fragile.

On 3/3/2023 at 12:08 PM, Wick said:

...BUT I wouldn't be me if I didn't had another wish......

Would it be possible to add a Logo Led holder for the BARF-Logo-Led?

Do you want to give this a try?

Mini_Stealth_BARF-Logo-Led_Carrier.stl

ohhhhh yes !!! many thanks will try and report, but will take a while, 28hour print has started a few hours ago