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TeamFDM.com is an UNOFFICIAL companion site for the DIY Voron 3D printer community. For official docs and final source of truth, visit the Official Voron Discord or the Voron Github
Printable Voron User Mods
Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.
Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with.
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Sherpa Micro Vz RIDGA + CW2 Module
This remix of the Sherpa Micro extruder uses the RIDGA gears from a Vz Hextrudort. Other than using 'twirl' gears, they are also 5mm shorter than the standard Bondtech gears which solves the collision that a stock Sherpa has with the 5015 blower in a Stealthburner.
I mirrored the extruder about the Y axis to put the tensioning screw on the left side and added a filament release lever since the idler_arm is not accessible when installed in a Steathburner. This requires a modified idler_arm for ridgidity. I have also added a shield over the 50t gear to protect the toolhead wiring.
This design fits the official Stealthburner_main_body as well as the official cable_door. The cable chain mounts were adjusted to clear the stepper motor but otherwise remain stock. Below is a list of the hardware that differs from a standard Stealthburner CW2 install.
1 - Mellow CNC Vz HextrudORT drive gears Set 7
2 - M3x25 screws below extruder (from the front)
1 - M2x10 self tapping screw at the top (from behind)
2 - M3x12 screws to secure extruder
1 - M3x10 screw to attach filament release lever
The Sherpa Micro Vz RIDGA will need some basic components from a BMG Dual Drive kit.
2 - MR85 bearings
1 - Thumbscrew with tensioning spring and washer
2 - 3mm steel pins for idler_arm pivot and idler gear
The included .blend file shows the complete CW2 assembly with hardware. You can select any part and press [H] to hide it. Pressing [Alt] + [H] shows everything again. Pressing [F2] while a part is selected brings up the Rename dialog so you can see the name of each component i.e. "M3x25_BHCS".
I have included .stl files for building a standard Sherpa Micro, with standard BMG gears, but adding the filament_release_lever. The files added here are mirrored to put the tension screw on the left but can each be mirrored back in the slicer to match the official orientation. Below is a list of the parts required:
1 - Sherpa_Micro_VzRIDGA_Back_v1.1.stl
1 - Sherpa_Micro_Core_mirrored.stl (official geometry mirrored)
1 - Sherpa_Micro_VzRIDGA_Front.stl (official geometry mirrored)
1 - Sherpa_Micro_Idler_Arm_FR-Lever_mirrored.stl
1 - Sherpa_Micro_VzRIDGA_Filament_Release_Lever.stl
The extruder parts are licensed under the Annex Engineering License and the Clockwork 2 parts are licensed under the GPL v3 License.
454 downloads
- stealthburner
- clockwork2
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CATPAW Voron ZERO toolhead Orbiter 2.0 - CAN - Neopixel - Probe - Filament Sensor - 2x4010 - 1x3010
CatPaw is the ideal toolhead for Voron Zero series with Orbiter 2.0 Extruder. I developed this toolhead as I was unhappy with the existing options. The standard Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead does not provide as much cooling as I prefer, and certainly less than the StealthBurner toolhead. My design goals were also minimum loss of print volume and maximum compatibility with toolheads and options for probe and filament sensor.
CATPAW:
Uses Voron Zero 0.2 toolhead cartridges, so should work with all toolheads for voron Zero 0.2 (fan saver recommended) 2x 4010 Blowers, with StealthBurner duct layout for near arctic level part cooling (2x 4010 provides more air than StealthBurner toolhead) Almost no loss in print volume. X axis should be full width, loss off a millimeter or so on X if you print with your door closed. (Magnets on my door are strong enough, so the door closes again if the toolhead bumps into it, giving me the full 120x120 mm even when printing ABS Option to add the slideswipe Probe. I shortened the probe, but all other parts can be used from https://github.com/SaltyPaws/Voron_0.1and0.2mods/SlideSwipe or original repo (https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe) Option to add under extruder filament Sensor Carriages are provided for MGN7 and MGN9 X-axis rails. It is recommended to print the provided X carriage for the appropriate rail. In order to minimize toolhead height, I lowered the screw hole for the rear mounting screw. The CATPAW toolhead will work with the stock Voron Zero 0.2 Carriage, but the screw securing the X-carriage from the rear will not fit. https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20240101_224037977.jpg?raw=true
BOM
2x SHCS (preferred) or BHSC M3x25 bolt 3x M3 nut 2x NeoPixel 1x 3010 hotend fan 2x 4010 Blower 6x3mm magnets for probe (optional) 6mm steel ball for filament sensor (optional) Omron D2F-L micro-switch with lever for filament sensor (optional) 2x M2x12 or self-tapping screw to secure micro-switch (optional) Installation Instructions
Assembly should be done in the following order: Probe
Solder wires to 6x3mm magnets. In order to prevent loss of magnetism, let the magnets cool against another 6x3 magnet. Press the magnets into the slots by pushing the toolhead down on a hard object. Use a large flat soldering tip at around 230C to push the magnets deeper into the slots, you want the magnets to stick out ~0.5 to 1 mm. Again, let the magnets cool down attached to other magnets to prevent loss of magnetism. Ensure wire to magnet path has very low resistance (less than 4 ohm). route wires out trough little side window. Seal hole with red gasket maker. NeoPixels
Create a chain of 2 neopixels. You do not have a lot of space to hide excess cable, so make the wires between the neopixels as short as possible, while still allowing them to slide into the slots. Test the neopixels! It will be more rework to remove the hotend fan and part cooling fans later. Fans
First install 3010 part cooling fan. Be very careful to only press the edges of the fan, the fan will break when pushing the center of the fan (ask me how I know...) Then proceed with installing the blower fans. Use a knife to cut the upper right hand side of the blower fan (looking back to front). This is required for routing the majority of the wires. I used superglue to keep the fan together as you will remove a fan closing latch. I accidentally cut int the fanbox, and sealed up the hole with red gasket maker. For details - see pictures below: https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175242278.jpg?raw=true
https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175256608.jpg?raw=true
https://github.com/SaltyPaws/CATPAW_toolhead/raw/main/images/PXL_20231225_175325632.jpg?raw=true
Toolhead Cardridge
Ensure the heater wires are installed pointing towards the right hand fan that has space for wire routing. Thermistor, probe and fan wires will fit on the other side (left hand side fan). Hold off on installing the zip-ties, these are best installed after the toolhead is installed on the carriage. Filament Sensor
Solder wires to filament sensor (2 outer most legs). You may want to shorten the legs somewhat for an easier fit. Trim lever, so that lever does not extend past micro-switch body Install micro-switch and ball Test sensor Install Toolhead
Carefully mount toolhead, ensuring that wires are not pinched, and belt is not rubbing on gantry. The bulk of the wires will go in the gap carved out on the right hand side fan, the other side will have sufficient space for probe and fan wires. Min Probe
See installation instructions in orignal repo: https://github.com/chestwood96/SlideSwipe
187 downloads
- orbiter 2.0
- orbiter
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PC4-M10 Push to Connect for Orbiter Sensor
I created this file, because the original Orbiter Sensor light guide does not hold the PTFE in place sufficiently to my taste.
PC4-M10 connector for Orbiter Sensor.
Print upside down, no suports needed. I used transparent ABS, but light colored ABS will also work. Use M10x1.25 tap to clean up threads Plug in and enjoy!
6 downloads
- orbiter 2.0
- sensor
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Voron 0.1 / 0.2 - Light Bar Clip (LDO Frame 1515)
I remixed a Voron 2.4 Version of LED bar clips I found on Voron Github.
https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/eddie/LED_Bar_Clip
Modded it for my Voron V0.2 with smaller clips for the 1515 extrusion, and added a corner clip, and also a NoLed Clip, where the cables can be routed inside.
It's a bit difficult to manage tha cable from the top to the electronics bay you can see in the picture how i managed it.
https://www.printables.com/de/model/694693-voron-01-02-light-bar-clip-ldo-frame-1515
27 downloads
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Alternativ DragonBurner Switchwire mount
This is a alternativ DragonBurner mount for Switchwire. This version uses heatset inserts instead of hexnuts.
44 downloads
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A-Drive Spacer with Chainanchor
I couldn't find an elegant way to attach the Z-Chain with a aluminium AB drive upgrade, so i remixed a original spacer...
I have the Alu AB Drive Set from Funssor
36 downloads
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XY Joint Cable Bridge for CF/CNC
This Cable Bridge has been redesigned to fit a carbon or CNC aluminum XY joint where the screws are not flush with the top surface of the XY joint. This bridge also provides a little more distance from the cable chain.
38 downloads
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EBB36 CAN cable strain relief gland
I designed this part to be printed in TPU. You could potentially use a rigid material if you didn't have a termination on your CAN cable and could thread it first. There are holes for the zip tie slots, but I didn't find them necessary to use. Hope it helps someone else!
35 downloads
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Probe Mount with ADXL for PCB Klicky
Probe Mount with ADXL for PCB Klicky
Use the free space above the PCB Klicky Probe for an ADXL!
This mount is a new variant of: https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/pcb_klicky
ADXL345: https://amzn.eu/d/dJvU8Zh
ADXL345 is attached with 2 M2.5 screws.
I didn't solder the JST-XH 3 pin header to the PCB Klicky board, but soldered the cables directly to the board. There is not enough space for the header.
happy printing!
30 downloads
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Voron v0.2 quad cam lock mod
Voron v0.2 upper drive frames with cam locks instead of hinges
Credit
Voron team
Print settings
Print according to official Voron print settings.
Bom
No extra hardware needed
Description
This mod replaces the tophat hinges on the AB drive frames with cam locks (like the front idlers). It is intended to be combined with full height panels.
12 downloads
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Voron 2.4 z belt cover mod with cable routing
This mod is a combiniation of the official Voron 2.4 and Voron 2.2 z belt covers. It also incorporates the hidden cable routing from the mod by Akio.
* There are two versions of the covers. One with and one without the Voron logo.
* The covers are 5 mm tall so you need a gap of at least 5 mm between the z-rails and the extrusions for this cover to fit.
* Please take care when routing the cables in the electronics bay to make sure they do not rub against the belts.
Freecad and step files are in the github repo.
422 downloads
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Tweaked Stealthburner Clockwork (CW2) for improved TPU Printing
Dear All,
This is a very simple modification to the Main Body of the Stealthburner Clockwork 2, to improve performance when printing TPU.
I found that when printing TPU, particularly the softer Shore hardnesses, the extruder would frequently skip, stutter and misbehave, causing poor quality prints. After studying the CAD files, I reasoned that as the direct drive outputs the filament into a bore in the Main Body, before the PTFE tube, the filament might be compressing at this point, and jamming up in the higher friction printed plastic.
To remove this issue, I continued the 4.2mm bore for the PTFE tube all the way up into the direct drive chamber. This allows the PTFE tube to be extended, and carefully cut (with a scalpel, or craft knife), to exactly match the direct drive gear. With this change, the filament outputs from the direct drive gear directly into the PTFE tube, with no opportunity to touch the higher friction printed plastic, and no space to jam up in.
I have found that this simple modification dramatically improves performance with printing TPU on my printer. Hopefully it'll do the same for you.
Note that getting the length of the PTFE tube exactly right with this arrangement is a little bit tricky. Cut the tube too short, and you'll be left with a gap that the TPU can compress into (giving you the same problem), but too long will cause it to foul/drag on the direct drive gear. Easiest thing to do is to sort this out first, before you build the rest of the Clockwork.
Fit a length of PTFE tube to the Toolhead & holder of your choice, and cut it so that ~25mm is extending from the top. Slot this into the CW Main Body, and the tube should end approximately half way across the direct drive gear chamber. You can then use the sharp scalpel/craft knife to follow the contour of the chamber, as shown in the photograph attached.
Hope this is helpful!
Best regards,
171 downloads
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Quick Release Latch
I have made modifications to use M3 DIN7380 screws. Much less random than if you use filament as pins.
308 downloads
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I have remixed this locks so there is a 5.5 mm version
I really liked these panel locks, they look very pretty and have less moving parts than panel clips.
My Formbot kit came with unusual acrylic panel thickness of 2.5, so adding a sealing foam of 3mm, my total depth should be 5.5. I've also increased the horizontal tolerance between knobs and main body.
I've also uploaded the .step and .f3d files, so you can modify those for your thickness through changing parameters.
344 downloads
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Cleaning Brush Holder
For Trident, metal spike brush holder from those sold on Aliexpress (Fysetc sells this kind of brush). Attaches to Trident's bottom bed rail.
66 downloads
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Nozzle_Side_Skirt_250.step
250mm version with room for 2 spare nozzles and 2 cleaning bits, plus the 7mm 1/4" socket which I use to remove nozzles.
This is a remix of:
https://www.printables.com/model/451864-voron-hotend-skirt-nozzle-caseholder-door-350
Which is a remix of:
https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Daten/Voron_2.4_Revo_Nozzle_Holder
And
A version with 3 nozzles is possible, but very frustrating to use unless you have tiny fingers.
5 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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Din Mounts - Low Profile - Electronics Voron
I ran into these on Printables, I hope its ok to post them here and help out others.
Lower profile, more space for airflow or/and fans.
Seem very solid, will be default in my builds from now on!
Thanks to the original poster - Frogree - https://www.printables.com/@Frogree_371528
209 downloads
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Voron 2.4 Roomba 800/900 HEPA Filter Box
A proper filter box for using Roomba 800/900 series HEPA filter in your Voron 2.4 Exhaust.
Unlike the other HEPA box posted here, this one fits the original exhaust housing and should use less material.
Print with Filter insert side on bed with support on build plate only.
To install it in the exhaust box, insert it at 90C angle and rotate it as you insert (last pic). The last push to lock it in place might require you to push from inside the printer. You might have to temporarely remove the fan for installation!
98 downloads
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Remix of RyanDam's Cable Management Duct for Voron Printers
This Remix of RyanDam's Cable Management Duct for Voron Printers includes a number of custom ducts which I am using in my Voron 2.4 build. Thanks to the original author for the excellent design of the ducts, which this remix is based on!
Since these models are designed to work with electrical components, if you use these models, it is at your own risk.
Included here are several customized ducts which may help with cable management in a Voron build. I am still in the process of building mine, and I chose to use the same electronics layout as the voron spec. These ducts were designed based on my FYSETC R2.4 kit (which I am building as an R2.4 V2), so some dimensions may be different in other kits. This was designed with help from the STEP file from the Voron Github.
There are several ducts included, which are designed to go over the DIN rails, and these parts include “BRIDGE” in their names. These parts will need to be printed with supports. There is an integrated support in the “HALF_BRIDGE” part, but that could also be printed with supports if needed. The “HALF_BRIDGE” part also has a thin raft like integrated support which will need to be removed. The 90 degree full bridge ducts are slightly different between the right hand (RH) and left hand (LH) versions. The difference is that the RH version (Cable_Management_Duct_Remix_DUCT-FULL-BRIDGE_90DEG_RH_5B.stl) is cut off a bit short to allow the power supply stabilization bracket to pass.
I set my ducts up so that the high voltage AC wires, and the low voltage DC wires, would stay in separate ducts. To do this, I used two half ducts (one for the AC, and one for DC), on the center duct which crosses the lower DIN rail in the pics, which is nearest the power supply. I also printed the AC ducts in orange so they would be distinctive as a reminder they contain the high voltage AC wires.
There are also plain and logo versions of the covers. The covers for the “BRIDGE” parts have print in place hinges, so if you find they are welded together when printed, it will be helpful to calibrate flow and horizontal expansion, as well as adjust the temps for the filament used. I made some minor improvements to parts since I printed mine (either for length or printability), but I do not think there will be any issues due to the changes. I printed the ducts for my printer in ABS and PETG, but use your best judgement on the appropriate material to use. I used VHB tape to secure them, but just note that once placed, they won't likely be going anywhere soon.
Parts are not oriented for printing.
Feedback is welcome, and if there is a problem I will try to fix it as I have time. I'm still building my printer, so if I run into an issue with this design, I will update it further, however I don't foresee any interference issues currently. Most likely I will not be able to accommodate requests to customize these further. The STEP files can be found on Printables (since the file was too large for this site), so remixing will be simpler. If you print these, or use these, it is at your own risk.
I posted some remix covers for the boxes, which have inset printed labels, as well as some single and double wire guides which I am using to secure my ground wires. If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. You can find some other things I am working on at my blog (https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog), thanks for looking!
You can find some additional low profile wire guides here:
https://www.printables.com/model/502345-wire-management-guides
There is a remix of the small box (not included here but shown in the pics), which holds two WAGO 221-415 connectors here:
https://www.printables.com/model/505826-wago-box-for-the-remix-of-ryandams-cable-managemen
The AC caution covers, with inset text and warning symbols for the small box and half bridge duct, can can be found here:
https://www.printables.com/model/505838-ac-caution-covers-for-remix-of-ryandams-cable-mana/files
6,082 downloads
- cable management
- wire management
- (and 3 more)
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Mobius M4 Dual Extruder Mount - FOR VORON
Hey guys,
So! I'm going dual (and triple) extrusion on my printers and didn't want to fuss with the ERCF for my smaller ones, so I bring to you the Mobius M4 dual extruder mount for the Voron 2.4 / Voron Trident.
Tested as working - All fits together, all fits on to the voron, extruders attach easily.
This is (kind of) a remix of the following:
Elegoo Neptune 2-2S-2D Dual M4 Extruder Mount by mlee12382 | Download free STL model | Printables.com
I got the original idea from the linked file above, I imported it into fusion 360 and sketched around it (getting rid of the unnecessary holes where they've obviously used tinkercad and the M4 baseplate. Instead of the silly (weak looking) cylinders that have been merged to some other blocks, I sketched out a stronger join and inserted the holes through that - also got rid of the stupid hole sizes that were used and made these 3.2mm in diameter for the M3 screws and 5.2 for the M5 screws - this means your screws should slide in nicely even if your settings are off.
With the Filament Runout Sensor mounts, so far I have just copied the original, but again made the joints stronger and the holes a decent size - I'm not sure if this will work with the sensors I want to use so will report back later - the way these are designed means you can print them flat instead of upright, saving time!
On top of this, I have added fillets to any stress points I considered to be weak - this should improve longevity of the mount.
To mount it on to the printer I have just used the Voron spool holder mounting technique - it is designed to sit into the 2020 extrusion and grip over the top panel.
36 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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Stealth burner 3rd parts cooling fan mount
When I changed over to CNC tap I decided I need more parts cooling. Cooling has always been just so-so. I wanted something lite and easy. Added a 30mm fan to the existing mounting holes in the ChaoticLabs CNC Voron Tap. No issues with tap. No clearance issues.
Mounts with 40mm M3 screws to existing set of holes in CNC Stealth-burner mounting plate and M2 button head screws for the fan. I just spliced in to the existing parts cooling fan for control. Before bridging was terrible. Now I am able to bridge 150mm at 70mm/s with exceptional results.
This should be adaptable to other hot ends, mine is Revo.
file posted in .STL and .step
Link to fan on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMHH74G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
171 downloads
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Voron Stealthburner EBB2240/2209 PCB Support
A PCB support to mount the EBB2240/2209 on the StealthBurner
61 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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Voron v0.1 v0.2 filler spool holder brace
Enjoy the butter smooth filler spool holder on voron v0. Size comparable with official spool holder, but smoother and now you can quickly remove the spool holder during transport/storage without screwdriver.
Supports mounting on right front and back right. It replaces the middle panel clip, reusing the nuts. You may look at the photo for reference. Instead of original length filler, you can measure your common spool thickness and get a smaller filler remix for best space saving. Here is my favorite mini filler:
[66mm] Filler 66mm Remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5335512 [56mm] Even SHORTER Filler Filament Spool System https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5241172 Installed with M3x10 screws. The design will hold the nut exactly where the screw goes in. Just remember to only insert the screw after the nut has reached the bottom. It is designed to be loose to handle poorly printed filler.
47 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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HUVUD Board Mount w/ PG7 Thread for Umbilical for CW1 Stealthburner
HUVUD Canboard with PG7 Threads for Umbilical Mod. Works with CW1 Stealthburner.
0. Install M3 heat inserts
1. Install board and bracket with the spacer between the bracket and motor. (Offsets bracket because there are little divets in the corners of the stepper motor.)
2.Slide the cable through the PG7 Gland
3.Terminate the molex connector for the canbus
4. Slide the Molex connector through the PG7 threads
5. Connect the molex connector to the board
6. Bolt up the thread piece using 4x m3x8mm bolts.
7. Screw on the PG7 Gland
8. Wrap with wire sheathing and slim measuring tape cut to length as needed.
50 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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