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Printable Voron User Mods

Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.

Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with. 

652 files

  1. Nova Printhead

    Printhead for the Nova hotend. Only tested on my 2.4.
    discord: beau#8696

    16 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  2. Exhaust 120mm Duct

    Voron v2.4 Exhaust 120mm with 4in Duct Adapter
    This mod allows use of a 120mm fan and includes an adapter to connect a 4in duct. It does not include space for filters. The bowden adapter has been moved to side entry.
    Parts Required
    Part Quantity Comment M3 Threaded Insert 12 M3x10 SHCS 2 M3x6 SHCS 2 M3x8 SHCS 4 M3x30 SHCS 4 120mm x 120mm x 25mm fan 1 Printing
    Print using standard Voron part settings and in the orientation used in the STL Supports should not be needed. There are bridging areas, but integral supports are included in the design. Pre-Install
    Install M3 threaded inserts into the printed pieces. Installation
    The standard exhaust grill and mounts will be used, and they should be installed before the new housing.
    Remove the top middle panel clip.
    Install the new housing using 2 M3x10 SHCS.
    Install the bowden adapter panel mount using 2 M3x6 SHCS.
    Install the fan mount box using 4 M3x8 SHCS.
    Install the fan and duct adapter using 4 M3x30 SHCS.

    149 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    4 comments

    Submitted

  3. V2 200 4020 Electronics Fan

    With building the famous V2 200mm² there are different challenges to encounter. Adding Skirts is one of them. Changing the file

    6 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  4. V2 3x Keystone Plugpanel

    Adding an unnecessary amount of Keystone Holders to the Plug_Panel component. The part works with

    17 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  5. Sw Fee Slot Filament Passthrough

    Voron Switchwire feed slot with filament pass-through
    This mod is a replacement for the stock feed_slot.stl, it adds a OD 4mm reverse bowden passthrough hole. It also removes the need for VHB tape with two clamps that screw into heatset inserts.
    Parts Required
    2 BOM heatset inserts 2 M3x6 button or socket head Printing
    Standard Voron part settings were used but the infill was dropped down to 20% Installation
    Install heatsets on the bottom side of the new filament slot Remove the old feed slot and VHB tape Install the new feed slot and use the two clamps and M3x6 screws to secure Note
    I designed this orignally for a bowden tube pass-through but at high Z the tube was unmanagable but would love to see if anyone comes up with a solution for this.

    73 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

    Submitted

  6. Lrs 100

    Meanwell LRS-100 DIN bracket
    Uses 2 of the pcb_din_clip_v2 from the Voron Trident repository.
    Use 2 M3x6 (not longer!) to mount to the powersupply. 8mm will touch the PCB inside.
    M2x10 selftappers for assembling it to the DIN clips as usual.

    11 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  7. Adxl Chain

    ADXL345 GY-291/Adafruit Cable chain anchor mount
    WARNING: Dupont connectors can foul with your z-chain when homing, solder wires directly or ensure you have clearance.

    This is a mod for mounting the ADXL permanently. It moves your drag chain up by 5.5mm on the motor.
    From testing this mount eliminates the Z component when measuring the Y resonance.

    Check for clearance at the limits of movement

    Clearance cad check for Adafruit board.

    Hardware
    DO NOT USE dupont on the ADXL boards, ensure you have clearance when homing using JST XH connectors or solder wires directly ADXL345 GY-291 board (21mm by 16mm)
    ADXL345 GY-291 board (21mm by 16mm) M3x6 BHCS M3 nylon/Printed washer (optional) M3 Threaded Insert * 3 or 5 (IGUS or Generic) Adafruit ADXL345 board (1in by 0.8in)
    Adafruit ADXL345 board (1in by 0.8in) M2.5x6 BHCS (threads into plastic) M2.5 nylon/printed washer (optional) M3 Threaded Insert * 2 or 3 (IGUS or Generic) Ideas that didn't work
    Dupont connectors on the ADXL board are too tall and foul the drag chain when homing. Attempting to use the three motor mounts doesn't work. Using the top hole would interfere with the drag chain as it's closer to the motor than the bolt. Using the bottom hole fouls the drag chain when X approaches 0. Using M3x8 bolts on the board moves the board closer to the back risking fouling with JST-XH connectors - would probably be ok if soldering wires directly. Attempting to not move the drag chain mounting up the motor doesn't give clearance as X approaches 0 for the board, it's too close to the bottom of the motor. Flipping the drag chain mount so it's level with the top of the motor instead of moving it up just makes the radius of the drag chain tighter and more awkward to fit. Trying to use threaded inserts for the Adafruit board would make the edges too thin

    154 downloads

       (1 review)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  8. Orbiter Clockwork

    Orbiter Clockwork Module
    This Clockwork module allows the use of the Orbiter v1.5 Extruder in the Voron Afterburner.
    Features
    One of the main issues I observed when using the orbiter was a lack of a quick filament release in addition to a lack of a suitable clockwork adapter that would swap an orbiter directly into the Afterburner ecosystem. Many of the issues observed were addressed with this Clockwork Module. This version provides a chain anchor for the Voron 2.4 and the Switchwire, a Cable Cover, and a quick filament release lever.
    Bill of Materials (BOM)
    Quantity Name Type 1 Orbiter v1.5 Extruder Orbiter Thingiverse link Hardware 9 M3 Heat Set Inserts McMaster Link Hardware 94180A331 or suitable inserts (Thread Pitch 0.5, Installed Length 3.8mm, Diameter ~5mm) 1 M3x8mm SHCS Hardware 1 M3x16 SHCS Hardware 2 M3x20 SHCS Hardware 1 PTFE 45mm (Dragon) Hardware 1 Clockwork Adaptor - Front Printable 1 Clockwork Adaptor - Back Printable 1 Cable/Connector Cover Printable 1 Filament Quick Release Printable 1 Chain Anchor (Version for Voron 1.8/Trident/2.4 and Switchwire) Printable Assembly Guide
    Orbiter Clockwork Assembly Guide Orbiter Clockwork Module Images

    Release History
    Version 1.0 Orbiter Clockwork Adaptor has been verified to fit and function on a Voron 2.4 and a Switchwire. Additional testing may be required to fix any minor or major issues that are identified in the future. If you observed any issues, please create an issue so it can be tracked.

    805 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    28 comments

    Submitted

  9. FFC Mod - LGX Mount

    A user submitted mod for LGX referenced in this post.... 
     

    44 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  10. Cricut Voron Logos

    Cricut_Voron_Logos
    This repository contains vector files I have created for the Voron community and for my own Voron builds.
    Purpose of this repository
    The purpose of this repository is to share vector files that I have created for my Voron Builds.
    For "Voron 2.4 Build with 1 Color"
    Link to Cricut Design Space for "Voron 2.4 1_Color_Layer":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6137795f68f6f90001d7abfd
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 2.4 1_Color_Layer" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_2.4_Logo/1_Color_Layer/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron 2.4 Build with 1 Color and Without LOGO outline" with a Silhouette Layer
    Link to Cricut Design Space for "Voron 2.4 1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline_With_Silhouette":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/614501c2623cde00018a4fe6
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 2.4 1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline_With_Silhouette" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_2.4_Logo/1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron 2.4 Build with 1 Color and Without LOGO outline" WITHOUT the Silhouette Layer
    Link to Cricut Design Space for "Voron 2.4 1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline_WithOut_Silhouette":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/614502f434e2330001c7de37
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 2.4 1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline_WithOut_Silhouette" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_2.4_Logo/1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron 2.4 Build with 3 Colors"
    Link to Cricut Design Space for "Voron 2.4 3_Color_Layer":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6137b53b0b4942000143ea8c
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 2.4 3_Color_Layers" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_2.4_Logo/3_Color_Layers/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron 0.1 Build with 1 Color"
    Link Cricut Design Space for "Voron 0.1 1_Color_Layer":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/613569712ecf490001974996
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 0.1 1_Color_Layer" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_0.1_Logo/1_Color_Layer/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron 0.1 Build with 1 Color and without LOGO Outline" with a Silhouette Layer
    Link for "Voron 0.1 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_With_Silhouette":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6147bad19e2fcb000119bb71
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 0.1 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_With_Silhouette" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_0.1_Logo/1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron 0.1 Build with 1 Color and without LOGO Outline" WITHOUT the Silhouette Layer
    Link for "Voron 0.1 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_WithOut_Silhouette":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6147bc71d61aad00013c14f6
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 0.1 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_WithOut_Silhouette" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_0.1_Logo/1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron Switch Wire Build with 1 Color"
    Link Cricut Design Space for "Voron Switch Wire 1_Color_Layer":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/613bf24c5dddf60001c14fbb
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron Switch Wire 1_Color_Layer" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_SW_Logo/1_Color_Layer/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron Switch Wire Build with 1 Color and without LOGO Outline" with a Silhouette Layer
    Link for "Voron Switch Wire 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_With_Silhouette":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6147c7da7e75d400012c4684
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron Switch Wire 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_With_Silhouette" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_SW_Logo/1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron Switch Wire Build with 1 Color and without LOGO Outline" WITHOUT the Silhouette Layer
    Link for "Voron Switch Wire 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_WithOut_Silhouette":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6147c95a2a3d570001fae277
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron Switch Wire 1Color_WithOut_Logo_Outline_WithOut_Silhouette" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_SW_Logo/1_Color_Layer_WithOut_Logo_Outline/Current_Design_Files
     
    For "Voron Plain Logo with 1 Color" to be used by ANY Voron Build
    Link Cricut Design Space for "Voron Plain Logo 1_Color_Layer":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6137b8cce6ad93000134232e
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron Plain Logo 1_Color_Layer" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_Plain_Logo/1_Color_Layer/Current_Design_Files
     
    For MY OWN Voron 2.4 Build
    Link Cricut Design Space for "Voron 2.4 QueenWithPlainVoronLogo2":
    https://design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/6137e15bd254460001dad096
    Link to my Repository on Github that contains all files I used to produce the "Voron 2.4 QueenWithPlainVoronLogo2" .svg file: https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Cricut_Voron_Logos/tree/main/Voron_2.4_Queen_Logo/QueenWithPlainVoronLogo2/Current_Design_Files

    5,943 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    3 comments

    Updated

  11. LGX Mount For V0.1 With 2nd X Rail

    V0.1 mod for mounting Bondtech LGX extruder with addition of 2nd X rail on the back of the 1515 extrusion. Already tested the rigidity of the 2nd rail and there is no up and down tool head movement as with just one.
    For the X end stop bumper, one screw is enough, the 2nd is optional and the one holding the extrusion does not need to be removed.
    Few additional screws are needed:
    X bumper 1x M3x10 or 1x M3x12 Y Bumper 1x Mx6 Strain Relief
    2x M3x8 Carriage Backplate
    1x M3x6 1x M3x8 4x M2x6 A Motor Mount 1x M3x8 B Motor Mount 1x M3x8
    Cowling
    2x M3x30 (LGX mount) The LGX Interface Plug is integrated in the Cowling
    LGX Extruder
    2x M3x16 (bottom of the extruder) The Carriage Backplate can be optional mounted with 3 M2x16 screws to the carriage, the holes are covers and need to be cut out. It is not necessary to use them, there is enough rigidity as the backplate is directly mounted to the LGX stepper.
    You will also need 1x 150mm MGN7, I don't recommend w/o the 2nd rail, even with good rail, the tool head will wobble after a while even with original mini AB.

    82 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  12. Led Mounts

    Quarter round led mount with integrated cable run
    An integrated led mount that sneaks the cables behind the z idlers. This part is all you need to hold the led string in place and hide away those cables.

    Hardware
    A single m3x25 bolt, m3 washer and t-nut JST-XH 3 way connectors and short cable runs from end to end (whatever connectors suits your LED strips best) LED strip - I used neopixels but you can use whatever 15.5mm quarter round LED extrusion with diffiser VHB tape if necessary Mounting
    To get the data and power I ran a cable up from the electronics bay in the rear extrusion. To hold the cable in place up the extrusion I used kapton tape as I thought using cable clips could interfere with the gantry motion.
    Fit LED strips into extrusion with VHB tape if required, having a short length of cable on one end sufficient to reach through the corner mount to the next led strip in the chain, the input end can be a JST-XH connector soldered directly to the strip I found. Do what works for your LED string.

    Start at one corner putting the connector from the electronics bay where it's needed and fasten a corner or end into the extrusion using the m3x25, t-nut and washer.
    Put the other corner up and run the cable through, putting the bolt in after making sure not to crush it.
    Attach to the next strip and put the strip in the corner mount before fitting the second bolt. This allows the cable more space to fold into the mount. Fit the bolt while holding the extrusion up and continue around the printer fitting as many corners or ends as you need.


    162 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  13. Adxl345 Skirt Keystone

    ADXL345 skirt keystone with 2 and 4pin microfit 3.0 connectors. I used what I had laying around.
    It's based on alchemyEngine's iteration of the g-code buttons. You can also find assembly instructions there. https://github.com/alchemyEngine/EnragedRabbitProject/tree/main/usermods/Skirt-Microfit-Inserts

    130 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  14. PCB Cover

    Voron Afterburner Toolhead PCB Cover
    This cover is made for the tool head PCB from HARTK. To mount the cover, please use a 22 mm M3 screw. The sleeve is used as spacer between PCB and cover.
    It should be also possible to use the cover without the PCB. For that you have to design and print a custom sized sleeve part.
    New version with Air Vents
    This is an updated version to the cover with air vents for better air flow to the thermistor on the PCB.

    422 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    4 comments

    Updated

  15. XY Endstop

    XY Endstop
    No Description

    50 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  16. Schaffner Power Inlet Mount

    Schaffmer Power Inlet Mount
    No Description

    7 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  17. Skirt Fan Mount

    Skirt Fan Mount
    To screw the fans in place, eight M3 heat inserts have to be inserted in the fan mount. U can use the heat inserts which are listed in the Voron BOM.
    The cutout at the top (where the mount gets attached to the printer frame) can be used for cable management. This may only work for smaller cable diameters on the fan. I have installed two 12V fans in series to use them on the 24V controller output.

    240 downloads

       (2 reviews)

    0 comments

    Updated

  18. Display Mount

    Display Mount
    A display mount with a fixed 10° tilt angle.

    9 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

    Submitted

  19. AB BN

    AB-BN-30


    This mod is my latest iteration on improving the afterburner hotend. The naming convention is not hard: AfterBurner BadNoob version 30
    Disclaimer: It is your printer. If you do this and something breaks or if someone gets hurt, it is fully your responsibility. I take no responsibility.
    Special thanks
    I want to say Thank You to the Voron design team. I've really enjoyed learning from you. Thank you for sharing your files, criticism, advice, and support.
    Additional thanks to Yellowfish, Long, Greg3D and all the fearless people that took time to help me along the way.
    BOM
    This is replacement to the stock afterburner, the required screws are ones you will just reuse from your existing afterburner.
    The main thing you will need to purchase is a 5015 blower fan. You will then have to mutilate the fan by cutting off the mounting ears.
    If this seems daunting to you, stop now.
    *Optional de-earing tool ("dearing tool")
    1 M3x0.5 heat set insert
    1 M3x0.5x16 SHCS
    For the mod itself:
    4x M3x0.5 heat set inserts
    The usual screws used in Afterburner 2.4
    1 5015 blower fan (Sunon's 12volt MF50151VX-B00U-A99, SanAce B52, or Delta BFB0524HH 24v fan are recommended)
    Note that sunon specifically states to NOT PWM this fan. I have been doing so for months and 10's of kilograms of pushed plastic without issue, but its important to state here.
    for fan advice, look for a fan with a high static head (above .7 inches H2O) and a high max flow (5 CFM )
    The SoundOriginal 24v fans from Amazon also appear to do well.
    The following fans have been tested but are not as good in this application. they may work OK for abs, but not PLA or high speed abs:
    Sunon MF50152V1 (the last digit here is "speed" and 1 is a much lower speed than the MF50151VX
    Winsinn
    Hondaly
    Mechatronics
    What does it do, and why should I do this mod?
    This version of the afterburner fan and duct is a drop in replacement to the spec 2.4 and 1.8 afterburners. It replaces the 4020 blower with a far more powerful 5015 blower. Compared to the spec 2.4 afterburner, v24 improves the following:
    * Better part cooling for both ABS and PLA filaments
    * Fewer jams caused by heat creep
    * Very resistant to melting ducts
    * Better left-right balance
    * Cleaner airflow for better overhangs
    CHANGE Log
    Added support for Zodiac BMO and BMS
    Removed support for Slice.
    Added step file for AB-BN-30
    Added support for Phaetus BMS and Phaetus BMO hotend
    Release to VoronUsers
    In AB BN 28 and 29, we moved to a single piece front. This has a few advantages, but it appears there may be an issue causing hotend fan failures by stressing the 4010 fan at a weak point in its housing. The issue is fixed in AB-BN-30_fan_front.stl\
    I also made some slight changes to focus the part cooling flow for the dragon toolhead only. I didn't see much difference from this, so I did not migrate these changes to Mosquito or E3DV6.
    I just did AB-BN-xx!...why should I move to the current version?
    If you are using AB-BN-28 or 29, I recommend you update the fan front piece.
    Performance wise, ab-bn-25 is nearly identical to -30, but there are some changes.
    Compared to the version (AB-BN-25):
    Better wire management
    Single piece front is stiffer
    4010 moved slightly to make it easier to remove hotend without removing fans
    Better fit (fixed the spacer to 6.6 mm)
    Fixed the back of the mosquito hotend.
    Changes made since -25 by part:
    Fan_front- 100%redo from -25. improved printability, standardized walls at 1.2 mm or greater. visually redone to eliminate "intake duct" or "kenny" appearance. Incorporated 4010 fan into a single piece unit. lower half matched to the hotend-front profile. fixed issue in 28,29 with 4010 fan carrier.
    Fan_back- 100% redo from -25. changed tabs to fit with the front.
    Spring- reduced size to fit
    Spacer-reduced thickness to 6.6mm
    Hotend-E3Dv6-front, Hotend-Dragon-front, Hotend-Mos-front:
    Reduced and adjusted stator to flow better with relocated 4010 fan, thickened walls at important points.
    Hotend-E3D-Dragon-back- NO CHANGES FROM -25
    Hotend-Mos-back- adjusted to line up with Mos-front better.
    Print Settings:
    I use the standard Voron print settings, but with 30% infill. I have gone as low as 0% on the hotend_front, these parts don't get a lot of stress. I also use Hilbert curve for top and bottom patterns. ABS is recommended, but these have been printed in ABS+ and PETG as well:
    0.4 mm Nozzle
    0.2 mm layer height
    30% infill
    no supports
    4 vertical shells
    5 solid layers top and bottom
    What files need to be printed?
    Everyone will need:
    AB-BN-30_fan_front.stl
    AB-BN-30_fan_back.stl
    AB-BN-28_spring.stl
    AB-BN-28_spacer.stl
    Depending on your hotend you will need:
    Phaetus BMS:
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMS-front.stl
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMS-back.stl
    Phaetus BMO:
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMO-front.stl
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Phaetus_BMO-back.stl
    Zodiac BMS:
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMS-front.stl
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMS-back.stl
    Zodiac BMO:
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMO-front.stl
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Zodiac_BMO-back.stl
    E3DV6:
    AB-BN-28_Hotend-E3Dv6-front.stl
    AB-BN-28_Hotend-E3Dv6-back.stl
    Dragon (high flow and regular):
    AB-BN-30_Hotend-Dragon-front.stl
    AB-BN-28_Hotend-Dragon-back.stl
    Mosquito (high flow and regular):
    ANNOUNCEMENT I no longer support the hotends from Slice Engineering. I find their business practices to be inconsistent with my philosophy. It makes no sense for me to put time and effort into designing a toolhead so that they can get a better price for their overreaching patent claims. My designs are all open source. Slice is free to take them and adapt them their own damn selves, but I'm not lifting another finger to help them.
    Assembly:
    This is the fan after modification
    Step 1: Cut the ears off the 5015 fan. In order to fit, you must cut the ears (mounting tabs) off the 5015 fan, and take off the top cover. The ears can be cut with diagonal clippers, hacksaw, bread knife, belt sander...whatever you have at hand. Just make it look like the image above. If you cut too much it's probably fine, as long as you don't damage the turbine.
    I have included stls for an optional de-earing tool (5015-deearing-tool and 5015-deearing-tool-b). The tool is meant as a handle and guide to saw off the ears. The tool fits around the ear and its edge can be used as a saw guide to cut the mounting ear off.
    Step 2: Fan test fit.
    The fan fits into AB-BN-30_fan_front. We have learned that different "5015" fans have very different shapes. AB-BN is designed to allow for adjustment for your fan. Here's how:
    Test fit the fan in AB-BN-30_fan_front. Looking at it from the front, move the fan around to center the turbine blades. You may need to trim your fan housing a little more. Once the fan is centered, turn this over and note where you need to add shims between AB-BN-30_fan_front and the fan. To shim this I recommend vhb tape.
    Step 3: Spring THEN Fan
    Once you have your shims in the right spots, remove the fan and install the printed leaf spring (AB-BN-28_spring) into fan front. The little circle tab should be cut off, it's an integral print support only. Don't forget to remove the integral print support
    Insert fan into 5015 front and secure with fan spring. The spring bends back to hold the fan in place.

    Step 4: Insert the 4010 fan in the AB-BN-30_fan_front. This is a tight fit by design.
    Step 5: Carefully route the wires, they will exit the 5015 back.
    tip: use a dab of hotglue on the fan housing to secure the wires to the fan housing
    fans wiring Step 6: Insert the tabs from the AB-BN-30_fan_back into the front and take the wires out through the cutout.
    mounting the fan spacer between extruder and fan assy
    Step 7: Assemble with the spacer as shown and secure to the extruder body.
    excess wire may be stored in the spacer
    Assemble the hotend as usual.
    ENJOY!
    Please drop me a DM if you find this mod useful or you have an idea to change.

    2,525 downloads

       (1 review)

    2 comments

    Updated

  20. Wago Mount

    Wago_Mounts
    Wago 221 Lever Nuts are really cool, and easy to use (and not inexpensive). The 221-412 Lever Nut can be used to make your heater bed modular. You can get them here: https://www.amazon.com/Lever-Nuts-Compact-Splicing-Connector-Contains/dp/B093LQSQXG
    There are also very nice mounting brackets for them. The one I based mine on was created by deepfriedheroin and is available here: V2 Bed Wagos
    But, that mod assumes nothing else is going to be taking up that space. I am going to also use the purge bucket and brush mod, so I won't have enough area to take advantage of DeepFried's mount. So I made a smaller one, that mounts flush to the same extrusion the Z-stop is on.
    I also added features!
    It has an indexing tab on the back so it only requires one M3x8 SHCS bolt (and matching T-nut) to mount, and the indexing tab does not extend the entire length, just in case you want to push the edge past the end of the extrusion a bit for added space. It has a tiny area to wedge a flathead screwdriver in to pry the WAGO out if you need to, without having to work too hard. I printed this in PETG, but I imagine I will need to reprint in ABS once the Voron is working. Infill doesn't really matter I don't think, but I used 70%
    Note: The live pic is an older version which works, but could be better. It's a good location example.



    188 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    1 comment

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  21. Switchwire Y Belt Tensioner

    This mod for Voron Switchwires Y axis Belt tension, you don't need cut panels
    Fasteners
    2x M3x8mm SHCS 2x M5x10mm SHCS 1x M5x10mm BHCS 1x M5x16 up to 20mm for tensioner 2x M5 T-Nut (For 3030) 1x M5 T-Nut (For 2020) 2x M3 Threaded Insert Use Allen key for tensioning your belt, You can use brim while printing

    206 downloads

       (0 reviews)

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  22. Voron Parts Logo for your VORON Printer

    STL File
    You can print this logo on your 3D printer. I have included base (0.64mm thick) in this stl file which you can print in base color (at 0.24 first layer + two 0.2mm layers) & change filament after 3 or 4 layers to your accent color. I changed filament after 4 layers. Use monotonic top layer infill to have uniform top layer of Black base. Check images below. Use VHB tape to stick it to back panel.
    Image Files
    Image files are included in high quality JPG & PNG format if anyone wants to print them on paper with traditional ink printer.
    DXF File
    DXF file is included if anyone wants to cut this on laser cutter out of Vinyl wrap. (Like I did, Shown in Images below)

    875 downloads

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  23. Filament Sensor for Dragon Mini AB

    I wanted to create an invisible filament sensor inside the toolhead to check if the filament runs out or if there is a clog in the extruder gears. Tested on Dragon normal flow, not tested on Dragonfly, but it should work.
    https://github.com/diego589/Mini-AB-Filament-Sensor/raw/main/Images/Comparison.jpeg
    BOM
    For both (before and after the extruder's gears)
    2x digital hall sensor, it doesn't matter if it's latching or not. I'm using U18 7x 4mm ball bearings 4x 5mm x 3mm Round Neodymium Magnets 2x 10k ohm resistor Thin wires, 32 AWG recommended BOM If you only want a sensor before the gears:
    1x Digital hall sensor 1x ball bearing 2x Magnets 1x resistor Thin wires BOM If you only want a sensor after the gears:
    1x Digital hall sensor 6x ball bearings 2x Magnets 1x resistor Thin wires Tools
    Multimeter Printed parts
    [a]FS_Mid_Body.stl - Needed Recommended to print 2 copies of every hall sensor holder [a]FS_Cowling_Dragon.stl - Not needed at all, but print it if you don't want to sand it down (step 13) Assembly
    Insert 6 balls in 1 Insert magnet in 1 Make sure that magnet is around 2mm down the tunnel, if not, then push it using filament or something similar Test your clearances by inserting filament, when there is no filament the magnet should be 2mm down the tunnel and when the filament is loaded, the magnet should raise up about 2mm Insert a magnet in 3, it should repel the magnet in 1. If you inserted it in the wrong orientation use an 1.5 or 2mm drill bit to remove it out of the hole Prepare hall sensor, solder resistor at no less than 10 cm from the sensor Test your circuit, move the hall sensor towards each magnets and check with a multimeter between GND and OUT, it should read 5v next to one and 0v next to the other Insert the hall sensor in [a]HallSensorHolder145-145.stl, then insert the holder with the sensor in 2 (small face of sensor pointing towards 3). DO NOT force it yet Load and unload filament and check with a multimeter if there is any variation, if the voltage doesn't change, rotate hall sensor and repeat If everything is working, push the hallsensor holder in place If it's not working, remove it and try with a different sensor holder, then repeat For the sensor that goes before the gears follow the same instructions but use just 1 ball bearing instead Bend the sensor pins until they are below the highlighted part (image below) Route your cable following the path as shown in the image below. If you didn't print [a]FS_Cowling_Dragon.stl you have to sand a path down yourself (black circle in image below) Choose any available pin on your board. In this case I am using RX2 and TX2 because they are right next to GND and +5v. See TestCode.txt  
       

    17 downloads

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  24. BTT Smart Filament Sensor Mount

    SLICER SETTINGS
    4 Perimeters 40% Infill DISCLAIMER
    You are responsible for your own actions.
    CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE
    I am unsure of the original designer of this part. If you know, let me know.
    BILL OF MATERIAL
    7g of Filament 2 M3x10mm SHCS for attaching the mount to the sensor 2 M3x6mm SHCS for attaching the mount to the frame 2 M3 T-nut

    152 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

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  25. Input Shaper Skirt Connector

    SLICER SETTINGS
    4 Perimeters 40% Infill Supports are needed to support the panel mount DISCLAIMER
    Make at your own risk. Worked for me, may or may-not work for you.
    CREDIT WHERE CREDIT IS DUE
    The outer housing and lock are a modification of meteyou's gcode_buttons mod
    BILL OF MATERIAL
    Roughly 4g of filament 6 Pin MicroFit3 Molex Panel Mount Connector (Molex Part #0430200608) 6 Pin MicroFit3 Molex Receptacle (Molex Part #0430250600)

    105 downloads

       (0 reviews)

    0 comments

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