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TeamFDM.com is an UNOFFICIAL companion site for the DIY Voron 3D printer community. For official docs and final source of truth, visit the Official Voron Discord or the Voron Github
Printable Voron User Mods
Voron User Mods, or "UserMods", are a collection of community created and Team FDM curated modification for Voron Printers. All of these mods are available on the VoronUsers Github repo and unless otherwise specified follow the Voron communities GPL3.0 Licensing. Use any Mods at your own risk, if you make modification please share them on the VoronUsers repo.
Mod Authors: Have a Voron mod? Upload it at TeamFDM.com and let us know you're the author. We will ensure you can update and curate your files for more feedback! Please include tags for what Voron, or extruder your mod is compatible with.
652 files
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handles 2020 Enclosure Handle
I needed Sturdy Handles for my heavy voron2.4 350 so i could move it and turn it on its side/back to facilitate maintenance but as the enclosure limits where you can hold it and also due to the enclosure creating a step over the aluminium extrusion (3mm plexi and 1mm foam tape) normal handles wouldn't work so i designed this handle to fit the top framing, i can now carry the whole thing to another room if needed....
parts used:
2x M5x15mm BHSC
2x M5 Tnuts
Printed with standard voron specs
103 downloads
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Bondtech LGX lite / Dragon HE ! VORON ZERO
Description
PDF LGX Lite due Dragon hotend on V0 3d printer
Bondtech lgx lite is the best extruder i never tested , it's light weight and compact and uses rounded pancake 36 stepper motor.
which for me the best extruder can be done on the small printer like V0.
5x hex Nut (2 for the fans 2 for Retension_Block , 1 for sandwich main body left /Right ) 2x m3x40 (Fans housing mount (cooling part fans ) ) 3x m3x25 ( 1 for sandwich main body left /Right , 2 for mounting the toolhead on the X- carriage ) 2x m3x12 (mounting the front fan HE fan) 2x 2.5x8mm (for the dragon hotend) 4x m2x8 (for mounting the toolhead on the x-carriage (mgn7) ) 2x m3 heat set inserts (mounting the front fan (HE fan) ) 2x m3x10 (mounting the lgx lite on the main body )
check out my other desigh with HExtrodr mount on voron zero here !
190 downloads
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V0 Bed Fan
Bed fan mount for the V0. Uses an 80x80x25mm fan, I used this GDSTime one. It makes the enclosure heat up faster, and the bed cool down faster after prints.
Fan definition:
[fan_generic enclosure_fan] pin: PB8 max_power: 1.0 shutdown_speed: 0 cycle_time: 0.01 hardware_pwm: False kick_start_time: 0.1 off_below: 0.2 Klipper macro for preheating the enclosure:
[gcode_macro PREHEAT] gcode: M140 S110 ; Preheat bed M104 S160 ; Preheat hotend M106 S255 ; Part fan at max {% if 'xyz' not in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} G28 ; Home axes {% endif %} G0 X60 Y60 Z110 F5000 ; Move bed down and AB to middle M190 S110 ; Wait for bed to hit 110 SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=1 If you use this, make sure to also turn off the enclosure fan in the PRINT_START:
SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=0 Klipper macro for cooling down the bed after the print ends:
[gcode_macro COOLDOWN] gcode: {% if printer.toolhead.position.z < 110 %} G0 Z110 F3600 {% endif %} TURN_OFF_HEATERS SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=1 M106 S255 ; Part fan to max [gcode_macro PRINT_END_COOLDOWN] gcode: M400 ; wait for buffer to clear G92 E0 ; zero the extruder G1 E-4.0 F3600 ; retract filament COOLDOWN {% set max_y = printer.configfile.config["stepper_y"]["position_max"]|float %} G0 X60 Y{max_y} F3600 M190 S50 ; Wait for bed to cool down (note: will heat to 50) M190 ; Turn off bed ; Turn off fans SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=enclosure_fan SPEED=0 M10723 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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Orbiter 2 Clockwork (beta)
Orbiter 2 Clockwork Module (beta)
This Clockwork module allows the use of the Orbiter v2 Extruder in the Voron Afterburner.
THIS IS A PRE-RELEASE - DO NOT DOWNLOAD UNLESS YOU ARE WILLING TO DEAL WITH POSSIBLE ISSUE OR TO GIVE FEEDBACK!
The rear screws that hold the chain anchor on are m3x8, two of them. They use the Voron heat set inserts, m3 I was working with DoubleT on the PCB holder. Trying to build a universal tool version so we could use different holders.
15,950 downloads
- orbiter2
- spacelab2021
- (and 4 more)
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PSU Meanwell LRS-200-24 Stiffer DIN Mount
I wanted to use Demosth's Stiffer DinMount for my PSU, but as I had ran out of self tapping screws and didn't want to wait for new ones to be delivered I modded his design slightly to accept M3 screws and nuts. Because the spacing between the screw holes would not fit the PSU's mounting holes center-to-center distance without interfering with the spring design, I added a very simple base plate which bolts onto the PSU using M4x6 screws.
Assemble the DIN bracket onto the base plate first, then the base plate onto the PSU.
These mounts are for PSUs with mounting holes 50mm apart center-to-center.
The tolerances of the holes are tight, so your printer has to print with dimensional accuracy or the screws won't fit.
If too tight for your printer, try using Hole Horizontal Expansion in your slicer.
Photo sample printed with 0.3mm layer height, 0.5mm width, 7% infill, complete set of 4 in about 37mins.
No supports needed.
Hardware:
M3x10 SHCS x 4 M3 nut x 4 M4x6 BHCS x 4
284 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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HorseshoeSpoolHolder
Horseshoe Spool Holder
This is a method to mount the filament spool inside the enclosure of a Voron Trident 3d printer, or outside a V0, V1 or V2 printer. It works with 200mm, 1kg spools only.
For mounting internally in the Trident, the ptfe tube is installed as shown: up through the gap in the side of the rear extrusion. Alternately you could drill a 4mm hole though the B stepper mount top and bottom parts.
To install the spool: Feed the filament through the ptfe first, then align the spool into the front and top bearing rings, and pull forward to spring the frame and drop into the rear bearing ring.
BOM:
3 608 bearings (any type) 2 M5-8mm (pan/socket) head bolts and 2 M5-Tnuts for 2020 extrusion only OR 4 M3-8mm (pan/socket) head bolts and 4 M3-Tnuts for 1515 extrusion 3 - M3-8mm bolts (pan/socket)
Internal Version for Trident only
Print PlasticBolt(x3) and use a m3-8mm PH or SH bolt to secure the pin in place.
External version for V0, V1, V2
Print ShortPlasticBolt(3x) and use a m3-8mm PH or SH bolt to secure the pin in place.
Please provide feedback for issues/suggestions to #Logan2225 on VoronDesign Discord. Thanks!
971 downloads
- LoganFraser
- v0
- (and 3 more)
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Rear Umbilical
Rear Umbilical Addon and Y Endstop Relocation
BOM Pieces M3 Heatinsert 4x M3x10 SCHS 4x
since my a/b motor mounts are MJF single pieces i needed a way to add umbilical compatibility without the need to reprint anything. so i designed this. its however heavily based on Selliot79's Design. i just designed it to be a bit smaller, to fit a IGUS CF5.05.18 perfectly and moved the mountings to the rear, so theres space for a Y Endstop relocation
959 downloads
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Stealthburner CW1 PCB Cover
Stealthburner Clockwork1 PCB Cover
I designed a cover for users who are still rocking the CW1 with Stealthburner, with the same low-poly esthetic of stealthburner. This cover is a snug fit, so please make sure your wiring is all nice and tidy or you could have some issues.
382 downloads
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Roller Holder Mount-Voron Vertical
I needed a better spool holder solution after the stock Voron one got worn and caused drag, which in turn was causing extruder skipping. The bearing supported one looked like a winner, but none of the mounts available put it in the stock location where I wanted it.
I took the mount part and the stock Voron part and merged them into this part. Now the holder mounts in the stock location and does not interfere with the side or top panels.
Remixed just the frame mount to go with ahough's remix of the original.
296 downloads
- v2.4
- claudermilk
- (and 1 more)
(0 reviews)0 comments
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Door Hinges
Voron 2.4 Hinge Mod for 3mm Doors with 3mm Foam
This is designed for 3mm door panels with 3mm of foam. I used the laser cut panels from Printed Solid which are 3.175 (1/8") and the foam tape from Amazon. They are design to fit Misumi extrusions. If the width of your extrusion is not the same, you can adjust the part that goes into the extrusion.
Make sure the panels you use are cut to specifications. 0.5mm too large on each panel can cause issues. Also, make sure you flow rate is dialed in. There isn't much room in the design for over-extrusion.
The M3x40mm bolt used as a pin is designed to fit tight in the hinge. It will pivot when the door is opened/closed so don't tighten it too far in the insert below. You will need to thread the bolt in the top part of the hinge and when your bolt hits the non-threaded part (assuming your bolts are not 100% threaded) you will need to persuade it thru the hinge pivot block. Once thru, I would back it out and go back in a couple times.
If you are over extruding, you will have difficulty getting the bolt into the hinge. Feel free to use the step file to open the hole up if you need to. I did not want any play in the hinge.
I recommend drilling the holes in the panel with a 4mm or 5/32" bit made for acrylic. If you do not have an acrylic bit available, please find some guides and/or watch some videos on how to successfully drill your panel. If you have scrap acrylic, please try it first. Having a hole a little larger than the bolt will provide some "wiggle" room. You can loosen the bolt, move the panel a little and tighten back up. The edge of the panel might catch on the bolt that goes into the extrusion, so some filing may be needed. (See Photo 1/2)
The backplate on the hinge helps spread the load and prevents cracking of the panels. You do not need to use them if you have shorter bolts and don't want to use them. I would, however, recommend using them. The handles do not have backplates. As long as you do not over-tighten them, they should be fine. Use some button heads if you can. I didn't have any, and found socket heads work just as well.
There is not much space behind the inserts on the hinge. Be careful and do not press them too deep. Press them "almost" in and then use something like a straight edge to press them flush. It is easy to dimple the front side, especially if you use too long of bolts. (See Image 4 below).
Final note: The pivot has a little "ear" that overhangs the other side of the extrusion. This is ensure the pivot is solid and fits square against the extrusion. It does mean that that you will not have foam on that part. (See Photo 2)
Handles
item qty M3x6 BHCS x8 M3 inserts x8 Hinges
item qty M3x40 x4 (hinge "pin") M3x12 SHCS x4 attaches pivot to frame M3x10 BHCS x8 attaches hinge to door panel M3 inserts x12 Image 1:
Image 2:
Image 3:
Image 4:
Photo 1:
Photo 2:
Photo 3:
Photo 4:
Photo 5:
Photo 6:
Photo 7:
3,728 downloads
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External_sdcard_socket_mod
In my travels upgrading Anycubic mega-S printers, I created a sdcard socket mount for the cabinet to plug into a MKS Robin Nano control board. I remixed my design to add the same functionality in my Voron 2.4r2 300mm build. I can create other skirt mods if there is interest.
printed parts
right skirt with sdcard socket modification sdcard mount sdcard cover Other parts required
6 M3x8mm screws for mounting sdcard extension cable You do need a micro sdcard to sdcard extension cable. I picked up mine on Amazon made by Lanmu. It is a 500mm long extension cable and works well with the hardware positioning that I did for my machine. They do make a 250mm also which may work better for some installations. All you need to do is remove the plastic end cover for installation in the mount I designed.
65 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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rail_tie_block
My designs I have done for high power rocketry bays led me to design connector blocks specialized for that environment. I have taken one of my older designs and remixed it to mount as a right angle four post block for signal and fan wiring. I do like the WAGOs but only for AC/Mains. This block gives you four isolated posts in a space that fits into a extrusion rail with a M3 hammerhead nut.
Printed Part
4_post_Wiring_Block_M3_rail Other parts
four M3 thermal inserts one M3x12 screw for mounting block one M3 hammerhead T-nut four M3x6 pan head or button head non-oxide screws (shiny) four M3 internal lock washers eight M3 brass washers You can use spade terminals or wrap a loop of wire between the brass washers. Personally, I would use a spade terminal for the controller connection and just strip off the ends of the fan wires, twist them together and wrap it around the post. When a fan goes bad, replacement would be the easist this way.
Of note, I have the panels from Printed Solid shown in the picture. The block is only 12mm high, so it can fit against the panel for use in the electronic section.
17 downloads
- eletronics
- mods
- (and 3 more)
(0 reviews)0 comments
Submitted
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Vertical PSU Mount
Vertical PSU Mount
For vertically mounting the meanwell or equivalent PSU across two din rails. Adjustable so you can account for rail distance.
86 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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PurgeBucket 350 Klicky
Purge bucket (Klicky) Mod.
Credits:
@edwardyeeks: Decontaminator Purge Bucket & Nozzle Scrubber Basically his design is already perfect, there is nothing really to improve on it. I just made a small Cut-Out for the Klicky (which you can do tbh yourself with a side cutter xD) Printing:
Default voron settings, correct orientation, no supports needed! Bom:
see: Decontaminator Purge Bucket & Nozzle Scrubber Description:
The bucket itself is v2.4 350 only compatible. I don't know and can't test the dimensions of a 300/250... But it's a dumb cutout anyway only. Description (Only for Blurolls-Kit Owners)
The Blurolls kit includes M4 Knurling-Nuts, that are a bit smaller and shorter as BOM (DIN466) ones. The difference is: BOM-> height: 9,5mm / OD=16mm Blurolls->height: 8mm / OD=12-14mm So for exactly this reason, this repo includes a modified Brush-Holder.596 downloads
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Decontaminator Purge Bucket
A Team Dropbear Production
(Note this mod is no longer maintained but is kept for historical purposes.)
Decontaminator Purge Bucket & Nozzle Scrubber
This is a removable purge bucket with a nozzle scrubber. It is compatible with Voron 1.8 and Voron 2 printers (v2.4, v2.2 and v2.1). I noticed that the current nozzle scrubber design of the Voron was not very effective at containing filament debris and bits.
It was also not removeable, making it a pain to reach behind and clean it out with a vacuum. So, this design aims to solve all that by:
Making a larger and deeper purge bucket to hold more filament gunk. Purge bucket is removeable and naturally clips onto the brush scrubber with its geometry. Magnets help secure it further with the added benefit of a satisfying 'clip' sound when attached. A spring steel sheet stop/index is provided for convenience when putting your spring steel sheet back on the plate. These use M2x10 self tapping screws that allow you adjust the height so that they're flush with the print surface. Installation & Parts Required
Pictures shown are slightly older versions, however, installation is exactly the same.
The geometry of the brush_holder is such that it clips and holds the brush in place through friction fit. As noted in the installation guide, do not try to force the brush in if it's the wrong size; it will break quite easily.
For V1.8, you will need to print extension_bracket_v1.8 (print 2x if you want to use the individual sheetstop). Some may opt to install it at the front.
You will need the following:
1x brass brush or whatever you prefer (I got the TriangleLabs brass/copper brush and cut it down to length). For V2.1, 2.2 & 2.4: 2x M3x8mm SHCS (3x if you use the sheet stop option) For V1.8: 3x M3x8mm SHCS (5x if you use the sheet stop option). 2~3x M2x10(or 8, or longer)mm self tapping BHCS/SHCS (optional if you wish to use the sheet stop function). You should have these from the V1 and V2 BOM which are spec'ed for the microswitches. 2~3x M3 nuts (for V1.8 only) 2x 6x3mm round magnets STLs are included here and CAD files as well if you wish to change the dimensions or modify to your liking. A purge and nozzle scrub macro that is plug and play is provided as well; you can find them under Macros. Shoutout to community member Hernsl for providing this macro!
NOTE: If you are using the z endstop from V2.2, there is a version of the stop that takes into account the locating bolt heads of the endstop. You can simply mirror the stop in your slicer if your endstop is on the other side of the extrusion.
HISTORY OF REVISIONS
The purge bucket & nozzle scrubber has undergone many revisions within a short time, especially between Rev3 and Rev4. To avoid confusion and provide clarifications to current users of the purge bucket and prospective users, please read the following:
Rev1+2 and Rev3 are intercompatible with each other. They only work on V2.2 and V2.4. Rev4 is a completely standalone revision (only individual sheetstop remains unchanged, rest are not backwards compatible with Rev1+2 and Rev3 and vice versa). This revision works on V1.8, V2.1, V2.2 and V2.4 and the same parts are shared across all platforms. You will be able to find these older revisions under Legacy_Revisions.
REV1+2 AND REV3
In Rev1+2, the brush holder was available as two options: a regular holder and one with fully printed sheet indexing stops. In Rev3, the brush holder became only available as a printed sheet stop option with M2X10 BCHS self tapping screws. Purge buckets were compatible across Rev1+2 and Rev3.
REV4 (LATEST)
V1.8 support was added in this revision. Due to screw distances changing in V1.8 to allow clearance from the rear electronics panel, I made the decision to have this change apply to the V2 versions so that one part can be used across V1 and V2. This would minimise hunting for specific parts for each specific printer. However, this means that only the individual_sheetstop carries over from previous revisions (purge bucket dimensions have changed as well).
Future revisions may include the use of a silicone brush that is gentler on plated nozzles. Come back for updates!
-edwardyeeks (edwardyeeks#6042)
15,623 downloads
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270 Clamping Hinges
270 Degree Clamping Hinges
The design of this hinge is based on chrisgonzales already incredible 270 degree hinges. The main goal of this remix was to have the front panels mounted in a way that didn't use any VHB tape or holes that needed to be drilled into the acrylic, and of course, use minimal amounts of additional hardware. After many design iterations and improvements I came to a solution.
Important Notice
If you're going for a super sealed enclosure, then these hinges are not for you. In testing ( at the moment with only 2 hinges per panel ) I found after opening and closing the doors several times, they would slowly lose alignment ( only by fractions of a mm ) and just need a little push to re-align so the panels would close properly and not collide. This means you'll probably have a gap of a couple mm between the panels at the front if you don't want to be driven crazy by them not staying super aligned. A potential fix would be to print 3 hinges for each panel but I am yet to test this although I strongly recommend you do use 3 hinges per panel if you have a printer larger than 250x250 ( what I'm testing them on ).
Update Log
11.12.21 - Made subtle changes to dimensions to hold panels closer together whilst having them fully seated in the clamps for maximum strength, also changed recommended print settings for stronger face_plate_bottom.stl.
Using Foam Tape
At the moment I have only tested using 3mm thick foam and that works well, you may be able to get away with 4mm foam, but for anything thicker, you'll need to modify part of the hinge to accommodate this.
Keeping The Doors Shut
I am currently using clamps designed by v6cl
Different Styles Of Face Plates
The file names match up with the digrams below.
Face Plate No Logo Face Plate Embossed Logo Face Plate Through Logo BOM - Per Hinge
Printed Parts
face_plate_top.stl [x1] face_plate_bottom.stl [x1] side_mount.stl [x1] Additional Hardware
M3 x 8mm SHCS [x5] M3 Hex Nuts [x2] M3 T-Nut [x1] Printing
I recommend following the default settings for Voron Parts, and none of the parts require support material.
Layer Height : 0.2 mm Extrusion Width : 0.4 mm Infill : 40 % ( 100% For face_plate_bottom.stl ) Perimeters : 4 Solid Top/Bottom : 5 Supports : No Brim : Optional Assembly
Better photos will come in good time 😉
Attach the _face_platebottom to the _face_platetop using 2x M3 x 8 mm Bolts and 2x Hex Nuts - Keep the bolts loose for now Attach the faceplate assembly to the _sidemount using 2x M3 x 8 mm Bolts - Again, don't overtighten these so the hinge moves easily Install the finished hinge assembly to the frame using 1x M3 T-Nut and 1x M3x8mm Bolt - Position them now to your liking Once all the hinges are on the frame. Slot in a panel on one side, before tightening down the M3x8mm Bolts in the faceplate assembly. And repeat for the other panel. Loosen the panel's clamps and position accordingly, repeat for the other panel. For the handles, I just re-used the correct ones that chrisgonzales made :).
Installed On My 2.4
Better photos will come in good time 😉
3,051 downloads
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2.4 Spool Holder
I really like this spool holder and had to make a Voron 2.4 adapter for it. I didn't want it to interfere with the glass panels, so it's been designed to avoid touching them at all.
BOM:
Roller Holder Mount x1 Roller Holder x1 Roller x1 Skateboard Bearing x2 (can be substituted with plastic bearings provided as stl files) 3x12mm SHCS x1 3mm T-nut This has been a welcome addition to my printer.
Print Settings: Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 40-50% Wall Thickness: 1.6mm Here is a link to the original version of this spool holder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020026
Update: 5/4/2022
Depending on where you mount the spool holder and how you are routing your filament, you may need an extended bowden tube guide. After some questions around this, I have included the STL file for the an extended version of the stock Voron 2.4 bowden tube guide incase you run into this issue.
3,160 downloads
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v0 BTT Pico + Pi Mount for V0
I created Mount that combines the BTT Pico and Pi that mounts to the back frame using the existing holes in the back panel. Also, a lot of the wiring can be managed under the pi as I lifted it from the back panel. I added photo's of my electronics layout in my v0.1 .
170 downloads
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Orbiter 1.5 for StealthBurner
Orbiter 1.5 on SB
20/04/2022 .step available
my config
rotation_distance: 35.1
gear_ratio: 75:10
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation: 200 #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.75
max_extrude_only_velocity: 60
thanks to Eytecz (https://github.com/Eytecz/LGX_Lite_Stealthburner_CW2_style_mount/ ) for his mount of lgx lite on SB to inspire me to complet this orbiter 1.5 .
i hope you like it
4,493 downloads
- orbiter
- stealthburner
- (and 1 more)
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Solid Skirt Fan Mount
This is a remix of Demosth's excellent Skirt Fan Mount.
I found the stock fan mount to be flimsy and easy to break off the extrusion. Demosth's version is a lot better but still only uses a single screw. I also wanted to use my red fan grills for extra flair.
I added three additional features:
4 more holes to secure the mount to the extrusion any way you want (if using the outer most holes, you'll need to attach the mount to the extrusion first before attaching the fans and grills). You can still only use a single screw to mount it on the extrusion if you're feeling lucky, but I recommend using at least two. 😉 3mm through holes to allow using custom fan grills (just as on the stock fan mount, you'll need to add heat inserts to the fans). Side profile for a snug and elegant fit against the part A and B side skirts, adds to the overal sturdiness of the assembly. This version is provided in 3 variants:
Solid_Skirt_Fan_Mount_Channel: with profile walls and cable channel Solid_Skirt_Fan_Mount: with profile walls, no cable channel Solid_Skirt_Fan_Mount_Open: without profile walls on the side. (no idea why you'd want this one) All models are watertight and print as normal.
No supports needed.
492 downloads
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Door Panels
Laser Cut Door Panels
As my distaste for all solutions VHB related, I was looking for how to replace the hinges on my 2.4. The most popular solution seems to be the 270 Degree Hinge which was based on Randell's Door Hinges.
The challenge with both of these is that they require you to drill your acrylic to mount them. Maybe that's super easy, but I did some research on it, including what drill bits to buy, etc, and it seemed complicated with a reasonable chance that I was going to crack my panels.
But I do have access to a laser from my local makerspace and experience there, so I CAD'd the panels in Fusion360 and created the DXFs to cut them.
Design Goals
The idea behind these files is to allow you to laser cut the door panels to have the horizontal flexibility to dial in the fit. So the holes for the hinges are ovals to allow you that flexibility. Be aware that thermal expansion will have some impact on your fit. Mine are tightly aligned when cold, but will stick a little bit when the printer is fully heatsoaked.
To that end, the holes for the handles are slightly larger and will likely require either a washer or button head screws. This is intentional to allow you to be able to move those around by a few mm. I also found that the door latches sat a little too far out for the standard acrylic 1mm tape, so I modifed the latches to sit back a little more.
There are now CAD files for cutting the holes in front doors. Although they are parametric (doorwidth) there are f3d and dxf files for 250, 300 and 350mm. There are also dxf files for all of those in the dxf directory.
Files
CAD
Remember, in Fusion360, the dimensions for the doors are parametric, so you can just change it there instead of opening these individually. I've just created them so that if you're not comfortable in Fusion, they're easy to use.
67 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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Trident Inverted Electronics
Trident Inverted Electronics Bay Mod
(but can be used for the 2.4 as well with a hinged bed mod)
Major update to align with 2.4r2 fan mounts!
Included in the CAD (but not STLs) are the V2.4r2 skirt screw-on fan mounts. The STLs are available from the 2.4r2 STL repository.
Newly added: C shaped din rail supports so no additional hardware is required. Also allows rails to be more easily installed front to back of printer if desired, as the C shape allows them to be installed around the power inlet and PiPlate.
You do not need custom panels! The front Z stepper mounts have been modified to remove the captive part of the plate that locked the panel in place, so it can be just dropped in as shown in the animated gif below.
No additional hardware required, BOM parts only.
541 downloads
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WagoMounts
This is a simple mount for attaching wago 221-41x to extrusion: by power inlet and under bed, or to Din Rails, for smaller builds.
BOM - 2x M5-10mm bolts
This is a simple angled mount for wago 221-41x blocks in sets of 3 that mount to a din rail using the Trident power supply din rail clip. Original design by Socal3D on voron discord, I just cleaned up the design and added the mount.
BOM - 2x M3-8mm bolts, Wago 221-41x
2,652 downloads
- loganfraser
- v2.4
- (and 2 more)
(0 reviews)0 comments
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Mini After LGX Lite
LGX Lite Toolhead Setup For Voron V0.1
AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE VORON ORIGINAL SETUP
The Mini After-LGX-Lite
Designed by Olof Ogland, based on a draft design by Nemgrea.
This project also includes:
Mounts for several hotends; AdaFruit and Generic ADXL345 accelerometer mounts – for Klipper’s input shaping tuning; Z-axis Bed Adjustable Y offset set – to allow the print bed to move back and forth from -1 up to 3.5 mm. Klicky – a z-probe mount that attaches with magnets License and Credits
License: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/blob/Voron0.1/LICENSE
Original source: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0
Credits: Nemgrea, DaveR, JosAr
Source for Klicky integration: https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe
Mini After-LGX-lite
Most screws required to perform the installation should be already on your kit. You may need some additional sizes and types. The following list identifies them:
2x M3x6 BHCS for belts 2x M3x30 BHCS for LGX Lite 4x M2.5×6 low profile for Copperhead 2x M3x10 BHCS LGX Lite to cowling Cowling Universal
Hotend Mount MOSQUITO 3007 Fan
Hotend Mount MOSQUITO 3010 Fan
Hotend Mount COPPERHEAD Screw Mount 3007 Fan
Hotend Mount COPPERHEAD Screw Mount 3010 Fan
Hotend Mount DRAGON 3007 Fan
Hotend Mount DRAGONFLY 3007 Fan
Hotend Mount DRAGONFLY 3010 Fan
X-Carriage
Tools
PTFE Cutting Jig
995 downloads
(0 reviews)0 comments
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ComboInlet
Combo Inlet for Trident, 2.4 and 2.4r2
These skirt plates are for the fuse-filter-switch combo c14 inlets.
Wide switch Shaffner FN283-10-06 inlets, metal case up to 57mm width.
Or equivalent product from a reputable reseller. Amazon/Aliexpress not recommended. Narrow switch in the style of adamstech inlets, metal case up to 48mm width.
BOM - Same as stock part, plus:
2 - M3 5x4mm heatsets (voron standard) 2 - M3-8mm flat head screws (or longer)
350 downloads
- LoganFraser
- v2.4
- (and 1 more)
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Submitted
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