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TeamFDM.com is an UNOFFICIAL companion site for the DIY Voron 3D printer community. For official docs and final source of truth, visit the Official Voron Discord or the Voron Github
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Welcome to TeamFDM.com
Welcome to TeamFDM.com, your premier destination for dedicated Voron support, guides, and discussions focused on the highly popular Voron 3D printers. As the largest Voron forum on the internet, we pride ourselves on being an independent resource for comprehensive tutorials and guides, providing an alternative to the Official Voron Discord or Official Voron Reddit.
Please note that we are not officially affiliated with or endorsed by the Voron Design team.TeamFDM.com is the perfect place for enthusiasts of all ages and skill levels to come together and explore the world of Voron Designed 3D Printers and accessories. Our thriving community, now over a year old, invites you to join us in welcoming fellow hobbyists as we work together to build, troubleshoot, and celebrate the incredible capabilities of Voron 3D printers.
Begin your Voron journey by visiting our forum (or bulletin board), where you can search for answers, ask questions, and receive support for your build. Discover the value of TeamFDM.com and the vibrant Voron community today!
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Latest Activities
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684
Mini Stealth - Orbiter 2.0
Ok. I'm back. Had a major catastrophic failure. Had a multimeter probe slipped and sent 24v through a 5v leg. Smoked my m8p, cm4, NH hexa and bme280. Unfortunately, I had no backups of my configs. Got most of the boards replaced, the bme280 delivers today. But over all, the printer is about ready again for a test print. I plan on printing all new mini stealth cowls to include the nozzle cameras. Think I should be able to start that today. Question for you. Ever thought about modifying the docks to have the heads held in by magnets? Having some serious difficulty with the heads staying put with the umbilicals pushing them off. Looking for a better solution. Also, did the cover piece of the cowlings get modified to fit the orbiter better? Pointed that out in an earlier post about it conflicting with the upper most plug on the back of the filament sensor. Thanks for the work you have done!- orbiter 2.0
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KIT or self-source? (I really need your personal experience!)
The things you should be aware when selfsourcing is that many places add a lot of markup on components. On stepper motors it often is 100% comparing alibaba with aliexpress. But can give some recomendations om where to buy (I'm based in europe), Extrusions https://www.myaluprofil.de/, https://www.motedis.com/, make sure it's T slot (otherwise mgn9 rails can be a problem), if you want short shafted nema17 steppers ratrig has good prices, rails i have tested https://www.robotdigg.com/ both theirs and hiwin. Heatbed feels like r3men.com. has a good price. For electronics biqu.equiment has been cheaper than on aliexpress, they sometimes have sales. Might also be worth to look on the used market. Both for printers and parts. From my expereince with the trident it's worth looking to get anti backlash nuts for the leadscrews, especilly with tap otherwise the bed will move down when probing in the corners, or get cartografer. The formbot kit i got had poor utilisation of the Z ledscrews (i only had roughly 20 cm). When selfsourcing you get options to extend the y axis by a cm or so that you can get a nozzle wiper or toolchanger without buildplate loss. When cutting your own extrusions you need some way to sand them down (the cuts are normally quite rough)- 3
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Henlo from a 3D printer digital cat!
I agree will @mvdveer about the Trident being the first printer to be built. One suggestion I will make is to build it as standard as documented in the built documentation, and when you have it working perfectly and you fully understand every part, then perform any “upgrades”. Furthermore, it will be easier to get help on a standard build than a custom one. Finally, pick the recommended hardware combinations in the build manuals, as some options do not work as well in certain builds. My 300 Voron is a good example. For the original build, I sourced all the parts (no kits were available then!), making all the cables and connectors myself. I choose for an extruder the Bondtech LGX and a Mosquito hotend. This combination worked great for the Afterburner toolhead but when I moved to the Stealthburner this combination was "dropped" from the "standard" build. So I went down the rabbit hole to the point I designed an entirely new toolhead the "Rabbit Hole" for regaining the full performance of my 350 Voron 2.4r2! Enjoy the build and journey!- 2
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Klipper runtime warning MCU 'mcu' configured for 180Mhz but running at 270Mhz!
Thank you so much, that did the trick! Sometimes being too close to the problem I just can't see it. Now at least I get to move forward!- 1
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Klipper runtime warning MCU 'mcu' configured for 180Mhz but running at 270Mhz!
I did flash the octopus board, but that was very early in my process. Won't hurt anything to go in and try it again. I'll get that done and report back with the results.
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