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TeamFDM.com is an UNOFFICIAL companion site for the DIY Voron 3D printer community. For official docs and final source of truth, visit the Official Voron Discord or the Voron Github
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Welcome to TeamFDM.com
Welcome to TeamFDM.com, your premier destination for dedicated Voron support, guides, and discussions focused on the highly popular Voron 3D printers. As the largest Voron forum on the internet, we pride ourselves on being an independent resource for comprehensive tutorials and guides, providing an alternative to the Official Voron Discord or Official Voron Reddit.
Please note that we are not officially affiliated with or endorsed by the Voron Design team.TeamFDM.com is the perfect place for enthusiasts of all ages and skill levels to come together and explore the world of Voron Designed 3D Printers and accessories. Our thriving community, now over a year old, invites you to join us in welcoming fellow hobbyists as we work together to build, troubleshoot, and celebrate the incredible capabilities of Voron 3D printers.
Begin your Voron journey by visiting our forum (or bulletin board), where you can search for answers, ask questions, and receive support for your build. Discover the value of TeamFDM.com and the vibrant Voron community today!
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45
Effects of static electricity on 3D printer Hot Ends
Has anything more come of this issue? I'm new to the Voron and this board in particular (my first post) - but have been modifying my old DBot for many years. I am in the final stages of completing my V2.4 r2 and came across this issue being mentioned elsewhere and through a Google search ended here. I don't pretend to know anything about electrical circuit board design but reading this thread reminded me of dust collection ducting for woodworking. Some woodworkers have used both metal and plastic PVC pipes to run their dust collection systems in their shops. In the plastic PVC dust collection systems the static electricity of the wood chips and dust rubbing along the PVC pipe towards the dust collector creates huge charges of static electricity. The remedy is to run a bare ground wire either inside or more often wrapped around the outside length of the PCV pipe and grounding it to the dust collector thus discharging the static before it can build and become a danger to the woodworker. I had an idea as I read this thread and thought about dust collection and wondered - what if we were to wrap a bare copper or aluminum wire around the PTFE tube going towards the toolhead and grounded it to the frame and earth ground. Would this be enough to discharge the static BEFORE it builds up enough charge to cause the damaged thermistors or board resets? -
32
Milo V1.5 BTT Scylla Motherboard Upgrade
Remember I'm not even getting past the configuration wizard. From what I can see in the Spindle.g file and the dashboard the spindle is at 0. I'm trying to finish running the configuration wizard, but the spindle doesn't respond when it tries to accelerate to max RPM.- btt scylla
- milo v1.5
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32
Milo V1.5 BTT Scylla Motherboard Upgrade
@MrWillson See your post in Discord: You get this error: Like Nine Miles mentioned, it looks like you have the spindle ID set to 1; it should be 0 In the system files section open spindle.g and make sure your spindle ID is R0. You should see this in the Dashboard you should see - the spindle ID is 0- btt scylla
- milo v1.5
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639
Mini Stealth - Orbiter 2.0
I am just now seeing this, much appreciated. going to print now and i will let you know how it works- orbiter 2.0
- v0.1
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0
A4T-AFC: [A]nother [4]010 [T]oolhead - [A]nother [F]ilament [C]utter
Has anyone ventured into the realm of the A4T toolhead - specifically the beta release of the A4T-AFC? GitHub - SouthAsh1/A4T-AFC- 1
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